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New floor puts radiator out of alignment

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Dave Yates (PAH)
Dave Yates (PAH) Member Posts: 2,162
If I'm "seeing" your description clearly, the risers are exposed and run straight up through to the 2nd floor radiator? If so, I'd want to test the risers to see if I could lift them at all (both rads disconnected). A wood block can be used as a fulcrum with a suitable pipe-wrench tightened loosely around the piping just under the valve or fitting - you can then use your weight by stepping on the pipe-wrench handle to test for lift. If you can get an inch of lift, then the easiest remedy might be to cut wooden dowel rods to raise the second floor rad, which will allow you to re-connect the first floor rad without re-piping or cutting off a portion of the legs.

We've been faced with this dilemma many times. So many, in fact, that we used to have steel risers for radiator legs that were somewhat decorative and flared out on the bottom. Haven't seen any of them for several decades. Cutting off a portion of the legs can work quite well, but everytime we did that, I held my breath hoping we wouldn't find out where solid metal met open casting! If you go that route, be sure to de-burr the remaining bottom of each foot and grind away the sharp edge to prevent scratching the new flooring. A felt bumper (furniture leg pads with glue backing) can be attached to each foot to help protect the flooring.

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  • Mike Hartmann
    Mike Hartmann Member Posts: 4
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    New floor puts radiator out of alignment

    Hello all,

    I had a new hardwood floor installed in my diningroom, so now the radiator does not align with the valve/steam pipe assembly. The radiator is now high to the valve/steam supply by about 7/8ths". I am not willing to cut holes in my new floor to bring the radiator back to it's original height.

    The steam pipe supplying the diningroom radiator continues on up into the 2nd floor to another radiator (pipes outside the walls).

    What is the best practice to get the radiator re-connected to the steam supply in this situation?
  • Al Letellier_9
    Al Letellier_9 Member Posts: 929
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    alignment

    Not much choice on this one. If you can't lower the rad, you have to raise the pipe. If you can't get any lift in the valve, you have to disassemblethe riser and add a piece. Not a DIY kind of project.

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  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
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    routine job

    get yourself a competent plumber with a ex. cplg or set of 45 *s & of course a new valve . bet. 1 & 2 hour job. price --under a thou. floor stays intact --no repairs necessary.
  • J.C.A._3
    J.C.A._3 Member Posts: 2,981
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    Als got it right....

    If you can't raise the bridge...lower the river.
    From your description, it sounds like the easiest way would be to sink the feet of the radiator into the floor. A good tug on that pipe to make it reach the rad. will probably throw the pitch of the connected upper floor rad. off and make a great scenerio for the "2 hammer symphony". JMHO. Chris
  • DD_3
    DD_3 Member Posts: 10
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    cut the legs down by 3/4 no big deal

  • Arthur
    Arthur Member Posts: 216
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    Radiator too hi

    Simple solution is to remove the valve(s) and fit a M & F socket (male on one end female on the other end) This will raise the valve by about 3/4" to 1" These are available in most sizes from 3/8" to 2".
    Brass ones tend to be a bit shorter while Galv/black are a bit longer.
    Or if you are handy make your own, Cut a socket in half and get a VERY short b/nipple cut most of the thread of one end so you can just start to screw this into the socket braze it around with easyflo and away you go, can tend to be a bit longer than bought M & F's.
    If too long cut the hole around the pipe and lower the socket into the floor, cover it with a floor plate.
    If water rad use hemp, if steam use PTFE tape.
  • Greg_34
    Greg_34 Member Posts: 19
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    Cut the legs

    Went through the same situation this summer. Easy fix. I measured the exact height difference between the pipe and radiator inlet, strapped the radiator to a hand truck and had a friend help me bring it outside. I put a new metal blade in my sawzall and cut off what I needed. Brought it upstairs and due to the "measure twice, cut once" theory, I had a perfect result. Looks good too, can't even tell it was cut down.

    Cost: 45 minutes, one sawzall blade, and a 6 pack for my friend.

    Good Luck,
    greg
  • Arthur
    Arthur Member Posts: 216
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    Rad too hi

    Greg,
    There is an old saying there is more than one way of killing a cat.
    Guess Mike has a choice of ways to fix his problem now.
  • Mike Hartmann
    Mike Hartmann Member Posts: 4
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    choices

    Thanks to all for posting suggestions. I think I am going to give cutting the legs down by 3/4". I assumed they were hollow, but it sounds like that's not the case.....I will try to devise a way to check that before surgery.

    Thanks again
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