Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Hydro -Air system

van_7
van_7 Member Posts: 2
How do you control your Trane setup? If you run constant circ, what controls the speed of the airhandler?

Comments

  • MJ
    MJ Member Posts: 2
    Hydro air

    Just wondering what you think of hydro-air as a heating system. I'm considering it as an alternative to baseboard in an existing cinderblock, slab on grad house where flooring removal is not an option. I will be using radiant infloor in an addition that will come a few months from now. would like to use one system - ie Noritz on demand tankless feeding both hydro-air and in-floor.
  • Brad White_9
    Brad White_9 Member Posts: 2,440
    Is cooling a priority?

    I assume that it is.
    Depends on where you live.

    Frankly unless cooling is critical such as in the South, I would go with a conventional AC system or a Unico type small duct high velocity aspiration system for the few months you would need it.

    Then for heating (assumed greater priority and more months out of the year), I would use radiant panels on the walls.


    If cooling is equal or greater in being critical, hydro air is a great way to go. Keep in mind that your coils should be selected for low water temperatures but in any case your coils and your floors and/or your radiators may each need different temperatures ("flavors") of water to function to their correct potential.

    What I do like about Hydro-Air is that you can run constant circulation on both air and water (with proper controls of course). This helps even-out the swings normally encountered with conventional force hot air.
  • Trevor Baptista
    Trevor Baptista Member Posts: 27


    I currently am using a hydor air system for my house in Connecticut and absolutely love it. I have a WM Ultra 230 boiler with a Trane VS air handler and the system works great. I find that the heat in the house is completley even and was glad to rip out the hiddeous looking baseboard I had.
  • Brad White_9
    Brad White_9 Member Posts: 2,440
    VS on the air side

    is the best way especially with constant flow (no ebb and flow cycling sensation even when it is quiet it is detectable IMHO).

    VS is great for balancing and to find that optimum balance between heat output and a comfortable, not-to-cool leaving air temperature. Good point.
  • mickey_2
    mickey_2 Member Posts: 13


    I put alot of hydro air in, some love it some hate it. grill placement is critical. If you have low grills you get air blowing across your feet. floor warming is a good idea with hydro air. make sure you have low returns installed also to get the cold off the floor. Mick
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 1,160
    I wouldn't...

    use the potable water as a space heating medium without some means of heat exchanger to isolate the two fluids from each other.

    Google legionella+yates for a good education.

    The makers of these tankless water heaters have yet to prove to me that their "system" is worthy of dual use regardless of the potable contamination issues. It was designed for a HIGH delta t, and when it does not see it (98% of the time) it short cycles. Heck, even boilers that I know for a fact were properly sized short cycle to beat the band. Its the nature of the beast.

    Go modcon with a side arm tank and be done with it. Quit trying to save money by using an appliance that really isn't intended for that particular use. I have yet to see one last beyond 10 years in real use, with a LOT of service issues in between crate and grave.

    Without a doubt, every homeowner that has tried and failed to do it this way wished they hadn't cheaped out in the first place.

    Do it right, or do it again, and if you can't afford to do it right the first time, how the heck are you going to find the TIME and MONEY to do it a second time??

    I personally would rather see you do it in conventional forced air and avoid giving "hydronics" another undeserved bad rap.

    JMPO

    ME

  • Ted_9
    Ted_9 Member Posts: 1,718


    > I

    > personally would rather see you do it in

    > conventional forced air and avoid giving

    > "hydronics" another undeserved bad

    > rap.

    >

    > JMPO

    >

    > ME


    Mark, having a bad day?

    MJ, If hydro-air is stuck in your mind(I personally dont think they are great) then go for it. But use a heating boiler and use the right radiant products and controls for the addition. Also, it is a good idea to get an indirect for the domestic hot water. The great thing is if you also need supplemental heat for the radiant section, you have the boiler.




    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 1,160
    Not at all Ted...

    Just tired of seeing hydronics given a bad name by people doing things that shouldn't be attempted in the first place. It's not the first time I've told someone to go forced air, and I'm sure it won't be the last.

    ME
  • Trevor Baptista
    Trevor Baptista Member Posts: 27


    Circs come on when there is a call as well as the boiler. The VSAH is controlled via the t-stat. Depending on the difference between room temp vs. set temp. the greater the difference the greater the fan speed.
This discussion has been closed.