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slightly off-topic: how to fix holes in oak floors

jackchips_2 Member Posts: 1,338
TMP is whom I refer but alas maybe he is no longer with them. Which is where I thought you said you currently engineer but I appologize if that is a mistake.

As for Constantin, surely you know who he is? All long time wallies know Constantin and a few of the good folks here have had their disagreements with him, some friendly, some less so.

You both come across as extremely well educated, know vast subjects, share your knowledge and well, like you two are the same.

Clark Kent and Superman by chance?

Just kidding, waterheater man, although I usually prefer Ruud.

As for me, no mask, no PE just an ordinary CPD who bids some of the work you engineers put out.



  • R. Kalia_8
    R. Kalia_8 Member Posts: 54

    I am thinking of pulling out a particularly large radiator (under the windows in an enclosed porch) and replacing it with one or more panel radiators, to gain space in this narrow area.

    The holes in the oak floor made for the old radiator will not be useful for the panel radiators, since they are too far from the wall. My question is, is there a simple way to close up the two holes?

    I can replace the relevant boards and then have the whole floor professionally sanded and varnished, but naturally I would like to avoid that if something simpler is possible.
  • Andy_17
    Andy_17 Member Posts: 30

    you have 3 choices, 1- is replacing the board, 2- is plunge cut& chisel a small section of the damaged board out w/ & replace w/ a small piece of oak. 3- if the hole is small enough you can insert a dowel cut flush & sand down.
    With any method you have to touch up the finish so if the floors are not in the best shape have everything redone & you have the closest match. Good Luck
  • bigugh_4
    bigugh_4 Member Posts: 406
    \"O\"s in floors

    You might buy two hole saws. One to cut a nice round hole in the existing floor and another to cut a disc out that would fit exactly the first's hole. Note that you will have to use a pilot bit to start the holes. This would
    ls be done in a pilot hole board, cut the pilot hole boards where it matters not what is under them, then double sided sticking tape holds the board down on top the floor and or new oak, and without the pilot bit cut the discs out.
    The Hole cut thru the floor should only go to the sub floor so there is a subfloor to set the new disc upon.
    Good luck
  • bigugh_4
    bigugh_4 Member Posts: 406
    OH, and

    You could set the disc in with bondo. a quick wipe up and they'll stay forever. finishe new board before cutting the disc to match the existing floor
  • Dave DeFord_3
    Dave DeFord_3 Member Posts: 57

    I am thinking that this is full thickness red oak flooring. If so you can CAREFULLY cut out the floor board a couple of inches on each side of the hole. Use a SHARP chisel, square the ends and take your time. Leave the sub-flooring intact. Make sure you cut out the entire board width and leave the tongue on the board you don't cut out. You should wind up with a rectangular hole 1 or 2 board widths wide and probably 4-6 inches long. You can then cut a piece of flooring to length. Here comes the tricky part. Once you have cut the piece(s) to length cut the bottom side of the groove off of one piece. If you had to cut 2 pieces the first one should not need this done and should just slip in and be able to be nailed (make sure this piece is tight or the second piece won't fit. You should then be able to slip the second piece into place and then nail it into place, you should probably drill the flooring slightly smaller than the nails so it doesn't split. You may want to test fit the pieces too make sure that the floor has not been sanded too much so the new flooring stands proud of the old flooring. If this is the case sand/plane the new flooring to the height of the old flooring before you install it. I would also finish the new flooring before installing it. You can finish it after it is in place too if you want. In any case I would get some stained varnish (Minwax is good) darker and lighter than the current finish and mix them to come to the right color. Minwax also makes some wax-based filler sticks that do a good job of filling the nail holes after the finish is dry. Hopefully you have 2 1/4 inch width flooring. If it is 1 1/2 you will probably have to buy 2 1/4 and cut it down as I have not been able to find it - if you find some let me know as I need about 25 sq. ft. of it. Good luck and take your time.
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    A hardwood

    installer could patch those up quickly and neatly. They often have scrap pieces of various species at thair shops, for repairs. The right tools make all the difference. As does the experience. Just depends on how well you want the finished job to look, I suppose.

    I had a hardwood installer piece in some damaged wood floor in my place. He even matched the dowels that were plugged at the ends for that "ranch plank" look.

    hot rod

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • grindog
    grindog Member Posts: 121
    fix it with

    you can try wood corks. they come in a variety of sizes and you just pound it in sand smooth and try to stain to match exhisting floor
  • Brad White_9
    Brad White_9 Member Posts: 2,440
    Do not expect perfection

    without replacing the entire board. Even if you did, it would take several years to match the original. I am stating this so the HO will have realistic expectations. That may even be you.

    I have patched holes any number of ways mentioned, square and round plugs or whole strips/planks. I always tapered them by the way, enough to wedge in for a snug fit with glue.

    Personally, even the ones that were plugs never looked the same but know what? I think they still look fine, an honest testament to the history of the house and so what.

    My $0.02

  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928

    EXCELLENT suggestion!!!! Simple, inexpensive and not terribly noticeable.

    As mentioned, nothing short of board replacement and careful refinishing will make the repair invisible (or very nearly so).

    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,300

    I patched some in my house by cutting the old hole round(if need be) with a drill or hole saw. Get a piece of oak that will match. Put it on a lathe and turn till slightly larger than the hole in the floor then taper the edge smaller than the hole to make a plug. Glue and pound it in it will stick up slightly then sand and finish.
  • Guy_6
    Guy_6 Member Posts: 450
    Baseball season

    I have known people to take a wooden baseball bat and cut off the nub at the base. Then drop the remainder through the hole and mark where the bat meets the floor. Cut it off slightly above the mark, and several inches below.
    now gently drive your new tapered plug into the hole and sand until flush. The ash of the bat is quite similar to oak. Now you need to match the color- use the remains of the bat to expiriment. One thing- make sure that the bat isn't a valuable one BEFORE you cut it up.

  • Ken D.
    Ken D. Member Posts: 836
    Plugs- Dowels

    I have used them many times over the years. We called them dowels, although some call them plugs or corks. Made of oak, poplar or other woods. Lumber yards, wood working stores or cabinet makers should have them. We get them from our local full service lumber yard.They work great. Matching the stains can be tricky sometimes.
  • Boilerpro_3
    Boilerpro_3 Member Posts: 1,231
    Another way

    My carpenter used a router and plunged about halfway into the old board a few inches on either side of the hole. He then squared up the corners and cut a thin strip of oak to fit the opening and glued in place. Works pretty nicely.

  • J. Cricket
    J. Cricket Member Posts: 36

    Many thanks for all the suggestions! I am going to get a professional floor person and get this done right.
  • Brad White_9
    Brad White_9 Member Posts: 2,440
    What a great idea!

    Universal cut to fit plugs... brilliant.

    Do I cut above or below where Mickey Mantle signed it?
  • jackchips_2
    jackchips_2 Member Posts: 1,338
    I doubt

    Roger pays you enough to own a Mantle signed bat but then again maybe engineers pay has gone up in the last few years.

    Are you really Brad White or is your name a pseudonym for Constantine? If you are for real, you and he will surely lock horns one of these days and it should be a great show.

  • Brad White_9
    Brad White_9 Member Posts: 2,440
    And they say I do not know jack....

    Which Roger are you refering to? Constantine?

    Yes, my name is Brad(Bradford) White, just like the water heater...

    Unveil yourself, masked man...
  • jerry scharf_3
    jerry scharf_3 Member Posts: 419
    a good choice

    I had some of this kind of patch work done on a brand new floor. The guy used the Fein multitool with the saw blade attachment. It's 10 times better than anything I have ever seen at cutting with a clean stop point. He didn't even pull out the chisel, it was that good.

  • Brad White_26
    Brad White_26 Member Posts: 35
    Wardwell is still here!

    I had a feeling you meant Roger. He heads our plumbing department. I am current but in HVAC.

    The only Constantine I know is the son of a former boss, Ted. A. at BR+A, my last gig. I have been at TMP since July 2000.

    Thanks for the kind words and Water Heater Reference. Tell me more about yourself.

  • mark  smith
    mark smith Member Posts: 112

    ooooh.... BR+A...huh ....

    I guess yer a bigtime engineer.... :>)
  • Brad White_26
    Brad White_26 Member Posts: 35
    Meaning what now?

    Hey, do I know you?? :)
    Where do you work may I ask? (Funny reference and I appreciate that. I was at BR+A for over 20 years)

    BTW- no e-mail yet on the Aerco posting. What is up with them?
This discussion has been closed.