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Finding a leak

Nron_13
Nron_13 Member Posts: 164
> I have a Diverter-Tee Hot-Water Heating system in <BR>
> a typical split level located in NJ, we have <BR>
> radiators both above and below the supply and <BR>
> have discovered that we have a leak and a supply <BR>
> side problem. On the supply side the system is <BR>
> not adding water to the system as pressure goes <BR>
> down - I can add manually ok though. On the <BR>
> leak, I can see that the pressure goes down <BR>
> fairly quickly, it has a 30psi releif valve and <BR>
> I've added water to approach 28 or so. Over the <BR>
> next day or two the pressure drops to 15 or so. <BR>
> I don't see any water anywhere so the leak must <BR>
> be in the walls, I have french drains so my <BR>
> assumption is that it may be leaking down the <BR>
> inside of a wall in the basement to the drain and <BR>
> being pumped out by the sump. Any thought on how <BR>
> to find where the leak is without pulling down <BR>
> all of the walls? <BR>
<BR>

Comments

  • Richard_11
    Richard_11 Member Posts: 1
    Finding a leak

    I have a Diverter-Tee Hot-Water Heating system in a typical split level located in NJ, we have radiators both above and below the supply and have discovered that we have a leak and a supply side problem. On the supply side the system is not adding water to the system as pressure goes down - I can add manually ok though. On the leak, I can see that the pressure goes down fairly quickly, it has a 30psi releif valve and I've added water to approach 28 or so. Over the next day or two the pressure drops to 15 or so. I don't see any water anywhere so the leak must be in the walls, I have french drains so my assumption is that it may be leaking down the inside of a wall in the basement to the drain and being pumped out by the sump. Any thought on how to find where the leak is without pulling down all of the walls?
  • Uni R
    Uni R Member Posts: 663
    Must be a very tall house

    I am not sure where your leak is but I am worried why you would ever want to run your system at 28psi. Most normal height houses would be in the 12psi range. Any expansion at 28psi and that water is "hopefully" coming out your 30# PRV. If your pressure is dropping back to 15 from 28 then you may also have issues with your expansion tank being waterlogged. Perhaps it is time to either consult a professional or the company that services your boiler.
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,094
    expansion tank

    Do you have a diapharm expansion tank or a older type of tank and how old is your boiler? I don't think your system should need more then 15 psi to run correctly.Are you sure you have a mono flow tee systm and if you have rads are you sure that all the air has been bleed out of them and last if you leave your water feed valve closed does the pressure drop to zero ? Are you sure you don't have maybe a baseboard loop feed through the slab i've seen a few leak unknowing until air related promblem occured .Where are you lacated in jersey peace clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • Patchogue Phil_28
    Patchogue Phil_28 Member Posts: 32
    leaks evaporate

    I had same situation. Couldn't find the leak. Not until I had the system shut down so I could replace some baseboards. Then the leak revealed itself. The boiler drain up high on the supply just before the air seperator was leaking from the shaft. When the boiler was heating, the water evaporated. New drain, no more pressure drop.

    Check the system cold.
  • Nron_13
    Nron_13 Member Posts: 164
    dector

    they make mositure detectors that have little probes about the size of a needle that can help trace the location back to the sourse it may take some time but better to repair know than allow the water to be in the wall and allow mold to grow in the walls and cause health problems
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