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failing pressuretrol?

gerry gill
gerry gill Member Posts: 3,078
we don't do that here..but for info sake, the price is not outrageous at all..remember, your hiring a licensed pro, he is running a company, and your not paying his ''labor'' your paying for the company..i had a boss about 20 YEARS AGO who calculated out that it COST him 50 dollars to turn the key in the ignition of his truck..its called overhead..and its paid by the consumer..why does a lousy can of soup cost a buck and a half? cause it does..

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Serving Cleveland's eastern suburbs from Cleveland Heights down to Cuyahoga Falls.

Comments

  • Dave_4
    Dave_4 Member Posts: 1,404


    I’ve been lurking around this site for about a week and I am now brave enough to post. I’ve been reading “The Lost Art..” so I know just enough to get myself into trouble in this 1920’s vintage house

    I have a one pipe system with two 2” mains, each 35 ft to the end before they turn back as dry returns. There are Gorton #1s at the ends of each dry return near the boiler. There are 5 radiators linked to each main distributed between two floors and an attic. The first floor is always fine but the upper floors are much cooler. Sometimes uncomfortably so. Never did much about it except shutting one of the radiators in the room with the thermostat. My idea of balancing a system.

    In any case, a problem arose during a cold snap a week ago when the house would not get higher than 61 degrees. Clearly the boiler was firing but it seemed to fire once and then stay off along time before refiring. The thermostat is fine, The water level is fine. I suspect the pressuretrol (Honeywell PA404A). Why? Because when the pipes are cold and the thermostat is calling for heat, I can get the boiler to fire by tapping the spring inside the pressuretrol. Sounds like I need a new pressuretrol? Many have suggested the Honeywell L408A-1132. Is this the one for me?

    Once I get the boiler firing right I want to return to the problem of that drafty upstairs. How do I get more heat upstairs without turning the first floor into a furnace? There are Gorton #6s on the first and second floor with Gorton Cs in the attic.

    And finally, just two more questions for this post:

    1) Are the main vents sufficient?
    2) There is insulation on the steam mains but not the dry returns, What are the rules on where one should put insulation and where one should not.

    Thanks in advance. This site is terrific.

    M
  • ttekushan_2
    ttekushan_2 Member Posts: 57
    might be a clogged pigtail, too

    Well, I guess that subject line captures my thoughts.

    The loop that the control is mounted to can clog with sediment. It must be cleaned. Also make sure the pressuretrol is level.

    Thats it. It should work. If not, then the pressuretrol is in fact the likely culprit.

    -Terry
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638


    Marc before I would suspect the pressuretrol I would make sure the the pitail that the pressuretrol is mounted on is clean.
    I will leave the other questions to the real steam guys here.
  • Mark, the first two posts answered your main question

    for the second, I'd add a second Gorton #1 to each main. How long are those dry returns? If they're really long it would pay to move the vents to the ends of the steam mains- then you wouldn't be filling the dry return with steam which is a waste.

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  • Dave_4
    Dave_4 Member Posts: 1,404
    dry returns

    Thanks for the advice. I'll try it and let you know.

  • Luis_2
    Luis_2 Member Posts: 8
    steam system

    Have same situation and solved the problem.Need help now with my boiler firing every 10 min. and short cycling for 2/ min.Presuretrol is set a 1.0 and cut-off at 1.75 two notches before the #2 mark.
    Answering your question; . I did change the main vents and install two #1 -3/8".
    .At the upper level 3rd floor ,installed Vapormyst "D"
    .The second floor all "C" valves
    .The first floor all # 5
    Before I started he boiler I did removed the front panel,and removed,cleaned and replaced the water probe(Not sure weather that's the problem I have with my shortcycling??)It was full of sediment almost hardrock.Filled the boiler to the mark about 1 1/2" from the topof the glass column.
    When the boiler started , at that moment opened the return lines until they were dry,collecting the water via hose in 2 buckets,lol.
    Surprisingly the steam just blasted up and all my radiators did warmed up proportionaly. I'm not a plumber.I did tried to hire one MR.Cataneo and he wanted $250 for just coming to look at my radiators. Thanks but I dont make $250 in one day.I still need help with the short cycling. Lately I did set the thermostat anticipator to o.6( as per instructions).Please help,won't be able to pay my next gas bill,ths.Luis.
  • mel rowe
    mel rowe Member Posts: 324


    Luis, do you have a gauge that tells you what the pressures really are? When I replaced my 0-50 psi gauge with a 0-5 gauge, I found that my Pressuretrol was off by over a pound. This higher pressure was contributing to keeping the rad valves closed, because it was exceeding the so called drop away pressure. When the first shot of steam hit, the valve closed, and as long as the pressure in the system was higher than the drop-away press. it would not allow any more venting, therefore, no heat. The operating pressure (Drop-away) of my rad valves was 1 1/2 psi, and my system was operating between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2. Not good. Just something to consider.
  • Luis_2
    Luis_2 Member Posts: 8


    Hi. Mel, .Thank you for your inputt.You may have hit the problem source.My gauge is a little bit banged and doesn't have a glass cover.Have noticed that the preassure needle doesn't get pass the first mark.Maybe 1/16",taht's all it move.
    Di tried to unsucesfully remove the pressuretrol(intented to clean the pigtail}.It has four start shaped(keyhole)screws and was unable to unscre'm.Also unable to unscrew the upper valve of the water (glass) column.It would turn the pressuretrol (out of level).So I deceided to leave it the way it was.The system works properly,except that darn shorcycle.Radiators warm up only 1/3 of their sections which tell me that if the boiler keeps working it should heat up the house.Unfortunetly my house is an old SF colonial, 3 story, @ 3300SF 7Br,2.5 bth.When they were built insulation wasn't a concern.So I'm starting to insulate the attic and soffits trying to reduce the heat loss.Will call the factory again and see if the enginner of technical support can come and take a look at my system. Has already pay 2 "plumbers" to no avail.Anyway thank you for your imput, will look after the gauge.Merry Christmas to all.Thanks. Luis.
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