Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
HB Smith Boiler Poping And banging
Gary_25
Member Posts: 1
I recently Drained an hb smith boiler to replace a zone valve and install a couple of ball valves for ease in future maintenance. After completing the job and purging the system the customer is now complaining of a popping and banging noise. I returned to the job to check for possible air in the system. The system was working well other than the fact that it was making the noise as the system was heating. It is like there sediment in the boiler or the pump had quit working but all seems to be ok. I Tried flushing the boiler but it didn't help and it doesn't matter if one zone is open or all of them (5 zones) Whats odd is it didn't do it before the work was performed. Is it possible that there was an additive that was in the boiler that I drained out unknowingly and refilled with water? As far as I know there wasn't any glycol in the system. Any suggestions on an additive or a fix to the banging? The system is banging on its way to 180. So the system isn't overheating
0
Comments
-
More than likley the new oxygen rich water that was fed in the boiler when the repair was made caused this. Any time I see an older CI or steel boiler I make the homeowner aware that popping may ensue after the work is done. You can try a boiler cleaner like hercules triple shot, or a rhomar product. The minerals built up on the cast iron are causing small steam pckets to occur
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
Gary,
The zone valves have reduced flow. Unless full-port BV's - they too may be restrictive. Add it all p, the flow through the boiler is diminished to some unknown degree, but "diminished" is the operative word.
Despite the gage reading 180, certain areas within the boiler with the newly reduced flow may get close to 240+ and have steam pops. You have a bunch of options:
1. Reduce the aquastat setting until it stops.
2. Double check the gage for accuracy. if it's off by 30 degrees, it would explain a lot.
3. I presume you did NOT leave the circulator on the return?
4. The former flow rates BEFORE the ZV's were addded may have been fine. The Cv restrictions the new ZV's induced may need a pump with better head to overcome the new restriction(s).
Any of that make sense?0 -
need more info...
What model/fuel of the boiler...what Zv was there and what did you replace?...What circulator is there? Does it have a tankless coil? Did you do any rewiring that would have moved the boiler control around? The boiler should be a closed system so a lot of calcification should not be an issue...but if the water there is really bad anything is possible...is it a well? kpc
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 917 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements