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boiler pics, new homeowner

Ken_40
Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
There's a general rule of thumb involved here:

If you have a net output of around 100,000 BTU's (meaning input rating of BTU's in - less efficiency losses, and the net is around 100,000 (also meaning a nozzle size of ~1.00GPH, and oil having 140,000 BTU potential output per hour per gallon) most boilers in that size range will produce 3 GPM of hot water.

I.E., it takes 100,000 BTU's to make 3 GPM of hot water. Given that most shower heads provide ~ 3GPM, the boiler will run all the time and you'll get a decent shower all the while, until you try and get 3.5 GPM from the coil!

At which time, the boiler & coil CANNOT meet demand.

Gabeesh?

Comments

  • Papa
    Papa Member Posts: 22
    boiler pics, new homeowner

    Hi,

    I am a new homeowner (of an old house). I have a peerless ECT-03 boiler and 1 pipe steam heat. I thought I would post some pictures of the system to see if any experts here see any obvious problems. I had a problem earlier in the year due to pipes sloping in the wrong direction, but was able to fix that with some help from this forum.
    I have the book on steam heat, but I am a novice to steam heat. The system was already installed when we moved in.
    Do you see anything I should bring up with a professional in these pictures? Thanks.
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    Looks pretty damn

    nice to me! I assume the D/H/W coil is being used for a HWBB zone or radiant?

    Twinned risers! Nice equalizer piping. I didn't see any vents, but then - didn't look that closely.

    The insulation is in place, that's always a biggy. One thing; how many weeks can you go before you have to give it a drink?
  • bob_50
    bob_50 Member Posts: 306
    You might

    want to turn the siphon on the pressure stat 90º. It wouldn't hurt to put something on the relief valve to aim it at the floor.
  • Papa
    Papa Member Posts: 22


    Sorry, I don't know the abbreviations D/H/W. I will add that there is tankless hotwater.
    If you look closely I think you can see 2 vents, one on each return in the leftboiler picture, but I think they are actually vents for radiators, not appropriate for the mains. On the right side there are no vents. I checked with the service guy about adding a main vent on this side and he said to just let it vent through the radiators, but according to Dan's book that is wrong. So I might look into that more this summer.
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    D/H/W =

    domestic hot water.

    The mixing/tempering valve on the tankless coil looked more like a heating loop control than an anti-scald valve.

    Works okay I presume?
  • Papa
    Papa Member Posts: 22


    And to answer your last question. I was told to flush it (blowdown?) once a week during the heating season until some of the gunk is cleared out. I usually give it a bit of water after that. I think it would go several weeks without adding water otherwise. Thanks.
  • Papa
    Papa Member Posts: 22


    Of course. Seems to be working ok. Only been here for about 9 months so far. I think it cannot keep up with the hotwater demand if the shower and dishwasher are running at the same time though.
  • Papa
    Papa Member Posts: 22


    Got it.
    So is there anyway of producing more hot water with the existing system without getting a new boiler (I'm guessing not)? It isn't much of an issue now, but we have a 3 season porch we may convert to a 4 season porch someday, which would require some sort of heat source. I was thinking this would be some sort of hot water heating system that could be added to the boiler for this single room. If the boiler can't handle a shower and a dishwasher at the same time, I'm guessing that adding heating for an additional room won't help.
  • For more hot water

    with the coil we use a 30 , 40 or 50 gallon electric water heater that's converted to a storage tank . We call it an aquabooster - a bronze circulator pumps water through the coil and it's stored in the tank .

    You have a few options to incorporate more hot water and another zone of heat with the steam boiler . You can go the aquabooster route and add a zone of heat off the bottom of the boiler , but you're limited to how high the piping goes from the boiler and like you said , if the boiler can handle the increased load . Or you can use the coil in the boiler for the new heat and add an indirect heater to the boiler for hot water . Another option is to use an indirect for the new heat source .

    Whatever choice you go with , the hot water demand can be prioritized if the boiler can't keep up with the demand .
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    That' okay...

    Regardng the hot water (D/H/W) you can make two zone easily from the excisting coil. One for D/H/W via an indirect storage tank - making all the hot water you could imagine; and, a hydronic and seprate zone for the sun room.

    Piece of cake.

    The coil, which can make ~100,000 BTU can barely keep up dirtectly; but, put a storage device on it and voila! You can have your cake and eat it! Do both lots of D/H/W AND a hydronic zone with the boiler you already have.

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