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Wall brackets for cast iron rads

Daniel_3
Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543
Sorry if I'm clueless but I just can't picture it Ken. Your saying drill some 3/8" lag screws into the studs. How long are they and is the rad actually sitting on them? What type of flange is being used and how is it attaching to these lag bolts and is the rad sitting on these flanges? I have never heard of a split ringer hanger before. I have never seen this half lag half NC thread type bolt you are talking about either. I went to a plumbing supply house, a pretty large one that has been in service as long as the dead men, and they had nothing to add when I asked them about hanging a wall rad. I can really only learn by seeing it so if you have some pics that would be awesome.

Comments

  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543
    Wall brackets

    Does anyone have resources for finding cast iron adjustable wall brackets like those found in the ideal fitter, us capitol radiator catalog, or american radiator catalogs? I have some peerless wall rads form A&R co. that need to be hung. Of course they would need to be able to maintain weights in excess of 300 lbs. It would be nice if someone had the brakets made specifically for those peeralss rads available =)
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    We have used...

    screw-rods a/k/a lag-bolts; you know, those 3/8" diameter half lag screw, half 3/8 NC threaded things. Screw two into a pre-drilled stud through the 'rock' and use either a flange plate or split ringer mount plate as a huige "nut," or intentionally use a plate one size bigger than the thread and slide the plate over the threads and snug it up with a heavy weight 3/8" NC nut.

    Use 1/"2 if needed. Use as many as your comfort level requires. When done, saw off the remaining threads flush so the gash in one's shoulder will be minimal (;-0)
  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543


    What is being used to keep the rad off the wall itself? Are you using a spacer of some type?
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    That depends...

    On how far off the wall you want it.

    Obviously, the further off the wall you want it, the larger the diameter of the lag/bolt/screw should be.

    Use the split-ring hanger plates on BOTH sides of the rad. You'll need a long nut, commonly called a coupler-nut - if you have a real thick rad. Threaded rod can work as well.

    Hope that helps.
  • Daniel

    not trying to step on Ken`s toes here, but I think he means they are like an automotive type "stud", but one side is wood screw thread, and the other side is bolt thread. The actual length is dependant on its diameter. It`s length can be increased by using a "double threaded nut" and "all threaded rod". As far as "standing it off the wall goes", you could use iron floor flanges between that and the wall, and "fancy ones" in the front.

    Dave
  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543


    Alright here's a picture. Dave or Ken; if you guys can do some photochopping to show me that would be great. I assume these two bolts/lags/screws are between the sections on the top and the bottom with a pair a piece at the four connecting points between the three sections making eight of these screws/lags/bolts.. So a decorative flange or whatever would be flush to the face of the radiator attached to the pair of bolts/lags/screws at all four points top and bottom making four flanges. Then on the backside a flange or iron plate would be supporting the radiator from being flush against the wall, right?
  • Here`s a pic

    of a couple of old wall-rad brackets I had kicking around in my shop. These are the bottom ones, and I put the stat in there so you could judge the size. I would think getting someone to make a couple wont be a prob, if they are to be mounted close to the floor a couple of wooden blocks dropped to it should do the trick too. Like Ken said, just mount them to the wall with lag bolts into the studs, capishe?

    Dave
  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543


    Thanks for the pictures Dave.
  • Your Welcome

    I hope they help.

    Dave
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    Here's how

    Please excuse the mis-matched parts and the razor scraper at the top, holding up the two split ring hanger plates, but the bevel precluded them from standing on edge without "help."
  • Jim Bennett
    Jim Bennett Member Posts: 607
    I have some

    I had made at a steel shop a couple of years ago. I had to get 50 pairs in order for the steel guy to bother making them.

    I still have quite a few left. They aren't adjustable, you just have to be dead on about mounting them. I will get one and post a pic tomorrow. (saturday)

    jim

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543


    Ken,

    Your awesome, thanks so much for your assistance. Would you just use two for both sides and let the bottom of the rad freely hang?
  • Tombig_2
    Tombig_2 Member Posts: 231
    Wall brackets

    When I pulled one off a wall and ceiling mounted it I knew to keep that bracket. Where it is now....well, beats me. By the way, those half lag/half machine bolts are called "coach bolts". If you think of the old coachmakers with their interface of wood and steel, it doesn't take much stretch of the imagination to know how the name originated.
  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543


    Makes a whole lot 'o' sense. Good info Tom.
  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543


    After a further search I found out another name of these bolts is called a "Hanger bolt" used mostly in furniture applications.
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    It depends.

    On: the size and weight of the rad you're hanging, whether you use 3/8" or 1/2" lag/screws and rod etc.; and how many places you hang from.
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    hanger

    they are actually called gimlet rods. 3/8 " is a popular size. get some extra long kindorf angle brackets. a complete assortment of the kindorf line is usually available at either a electrical or a.c --refrigeration supply house. you could also probably use steel flanges & pipe --maybe 1/2 "
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