Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.

If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out.
It's a great way to thank those who helped you.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Honeywell second geneartion smart valves

a Generation III valve. If you could give me some numbers of the valve I may be able to steer you toward some help.

What makes you think it is the valve? If it is Intermittent Ignition it is probably a SV9540 or SV9640 verson. Make sure someone has tested the microamp circuit before condeming the valve. Give me some details on its behavior and I may be able to save you some money.All of these use a Q3400A Igniter/Sensor so it just may be a problem with the sensor needing cleaned or replaced.

Most of the Generation III valves are OEM only valves so you will probably have to go to your local Heil dealer for a part or go on-line to their web site.

Comments

  • will smith_4will smith_4 Posts: 259Member
    Smart valves

    My brother in law has a Heil 90 plus that has a three plug Honeywell Smart Valve which has apparently become self aware (like HAL in 2001)-it has decided to work only when a higher power gives it the nod, I guess. (1.) Has anyone heard of any known issues with the three plug valves? (2.) I'm in the burbs of Chicago-anyone know of a supplier that stocks 'em? None of my regular shops have them-got one yesterday from one supplier only to discover in the basement that it was for direct ignition (this one has intermittent ignition. I know-check before you go, but I was so giddy at finding a three plug that I lost my senses.)
    I'm certain it is the valve-no limits/pressure switch issues. Thanks in advance for any help!
  • Empire_2Empire_2 Posts: 2,343Member
    Serial # on the furnace?

    > My brother in law has a Heil 90 plus that has a

    > three plug Honeywell Smart Valve which has

    > apparently become self aware (like HAL in

    > 2001)-it has decided to work only when a higher

    > power gives it the nod, I guess. (1.) Has anyone

    > heard of any known issues with the three plug

    > valves? (2.) I'm in the burbs of Chicago-anyone

    > know of a supplier that stocks 'em? None of my

    > regular shops have them-got one yesterday from

    > one supplier only to discover in the basement

    > that it was for direct ignition (this one has

    > intermittent ignition. I know-check before you

    > go, but I was so giddy at finding a three plug

    > that I lost my senses.) I'm certain it is the

    > valve-no limits/pressure switch issues. Thanks in

    > advance for any help!



  • Empire_2Empire_2 Posts: 2,343Member
    Serial # on the furnace?

    Some of the smart valves had a problem with the actual connection point between the molex plug and the inners of the gas valve. This was on the earlier version 2 plug. I do not like the new valves as everything runs through it. Is this the valve that gives you the diagnostic code?

    Mike T.
  • carol_3carol_3 Posts: 397Member


    It's amazing what you know, Tim!
  • Thank you

    C arol, How is retirement treating you. Since I retired I have never worked so much.
  • will smith_4will smith_4 Posts: 259Member
    Tim-

    Thanks for the response. The ignitor had been replaced a week ago by my brother in law, and the furnace continued to act erratically even after that. I had told him that it could be a fouled sensor, but couldn't get to it that day myself, and cleaning the sensor on those assemblies is a lot like doing brain surgery on yourself-a little to the left, and uh-oh! Long story short, it was the valve. I referred to it as a second generation valve cause that's what Supco calls them; they make a great tester for the Smart Valves, but I don't have the interface yet for the three plug series.
  • carol_3carol_3 Posts: 397Member


    You're right about being busy. Whewee. It's great, though!
  • will smith_4will smith_4 Posts: 259Member
    Mike-

    I'll post the serial tomorrow for you. The Molex connections are certainly something to be wary about, but something else to consider is the design of the furnace, and whether the valve, due to it's location, may be subject to condensation. This 90 plus doesn't have a sealed combustion chamber. The valve is physically located about 3 inches beneath the burners, with the combustion air (from outside) directly above the burners. I'm going to check with the manufacturer to see if I can eliminate the outdoor air intake for combustion and just use basement air to see if the problem might go away. This unit is only six years old, has lost two ignitors and one Smart Valve. Nearly $400.00 in material at cost without markup over just 6 years. With a normal contractor markup, plus labor, my brother in law would have paid for the whole unit new. Imagine if you bought a new car, then over the course of six years, shelled out the cost of that car for repairwork not covered by warranty. They'd call it a lemon. Sometimes I think we'd be better off with standing pilots.
  • mtfallsmikeymtfallsmikey Posts: 765Member
    A different twist on gas valve problems

    How about sticking solenoids, causing gas valve not to open, due to the type of grease used in assembly at the factory. My bro was relating this story to me the other day. Was told this by the tech guru at the wholesaler's counter.
  • carol_3carol_3 Posts: 397Member


    I've never heard of grease used in gas valves. You, Tim?
  • bob_50bob_50 Posts: 306Member
    Carol

    I believe MH had a recall on the, it was either the V8146 or V8139, with the rotary gas cock. If I remember MH paid us one hour per valve to remove the gas cock and install anew one. I still have the special wrench they gave us to take them apart. I was told the only difference between the old and new internal gas cocks was the lubricant. bob
  • The older barrel

    gas cocks had a very thin lubricant that was placed on them to keep them from binding. We used to grease them when they were difficult to turn. We used what is called in the gas industry "key grease". It was actually made for greasing the top buner valves on gas ranges. It was a graphite based grease which worked very well on hard to turn gas cocks and valves.I do not think anyone has been using lubricant in the last 20 years or so.
  • bob_50bob_50 Posts: 306Member
    Tim

    I was refering to the rotary gas cock inside of the V8146. These were spring loaded to the closed position. The off pilot on knob was on a verticle shaft, this knob was also the reset button for the pilotstat. On the bottom of the verticle shaft was a plastic gear. The internal rotary gas cock was on a horizontal shaft. The gear on the verticle shaft engaged it like a ring and pinion in a differential. When the pilotstat dropped out it would release the gear on the verticle shaft and the spring loaded rotary cock was supposed to go to the closed position. Thy didn't, sometimes they stuck open. That's why MH had us disassemble the valves and install new rotary gas cocks that had a different lubricant. I rebuilt a couple hundred of them myself. bob
  • Bob, yes I am

    very familar with those valves. They have been nothing but trouble over the years. We at the gas company chose to not repair them but remove them and replace them.

    I teach all my students when they see them in the field to replace them. In recent years they are known to not shut off on safety.

    Honeywell called them thier Weird and Wonderful Valves.
  • Yes I tried to get

    Supco to allow me to show their test device in my classes but they would not make it available to me. We have a policy that we do not purchase test equipment but rely on manufacturers to donate equipment to us. We feel that we are advertising their product with every class and it also keeps our operating costs down so we can keep our prices for training reasonable. I have heard good things about the tester and I do have some literature I give out on them. It would just be nice to have one to show in operation.
  • Dave_4Dave_4 Posts: 1,405Member
    nned help with Honeywell SV9540 Smart Valve

    Hi - I have a Beacon-Morris 75KBTU garage heater that uses a SV9540M2229 "Smart Valve" It is < 6 months old and stoppped working. The valve contains all the electronics - it has 3 connectors (1 for AC, 1 for DC & sensors, and 1 to ignite the pilot).

    When it gets a call for heat, it does not turn on the combustion blower. After 30 seconds, it realizes there is no air pressure and locks out with 2 blinks. Easy - the blower is broken, right?

    NOT - I powered the blower separately (disconnected from the SV) and then I got 4 blinks (limit string open) - which is isn't.

    Gets odder - I hooked the blower back up and found that by shorting the pressure switch the SV would start the blower. Only problem is, that's backwards. The pressure switch is supposed to be (and is) open when the blower isn't on and shorted when it is.

    So, by SV is acting all backwards (wants backwards air pressure, wants backwards limit strings). Any ideas?

    Beacon Morris fluffed me off to a 3rd party since I'm not a contractor - he said he could send me parts. Their warranty doesn't cover labor. I'm about to take it down from the ceiling and back to Menards.

    Any help, thanks!
  • Does this unit have

    a Honeywell ST9160 Electronic Fan Timer? If not is the Smart Valve wired directly to the thermostat?

    If there is not a ST 9160 then do you have 24 volts between the 2nd and 3rd pin on the C1 8 pin connector with out the thermostat calling? This is the 24 volt feed through the thermostat to the Smart Valve. Then do you have 24 volts between the bottom left hand pin on the 8 pin connector and the common side of the transformer?

    Answer those questions and we will go from there.
  • Dave what Model

    heater do you have? I need the Model number and serial number?
  • Dave_4Dave_4 Posts: 1,405Member


    Hi Tim - I sent you answers via email.... dave
  • Mad Dog!!!!!!!!Mad Dog!!!!!!!! Posts: 157Member
    Timmie is the most knowledgeable individual in HIS field

    of expertise. Listen to Pastor Timmie. Yep, I like standing pilots too!!! Mad Dog
  • Mad Dog!!!!!!!!Mad Dog!!!!!!!! Posts: 157Member
    Foolhardy - they are Tim...................................

    I'm sure you could save them alot of $$$$ too. Mad Dog
  • Mad Dog!!!!!!!!Mad Dog!!!!!!!! Posts: 157Member
    I see a dab o' grease on every new gas valve we install

    Always a glob on the female threads on both the inlet and outlet. It has the consistency of faucet stem grease (clear, but with slight brown tint). Mad Dog
  • Rich WRich W Posts: 175Member
    Two plug

    I'm working on the unit you have. This is the 120volt two plug version.
  • Rich WRich W Posts: 175Member
    I'm working on yours.

    Here's the 6 pin 120volt version. These are the pics. Goto Google video and search for smart valve.There are two parts. Play them in the original size- they look better.
  • Rich WRich W Posts: 175Member
    Dave

    Make sure that you have a good ground. Does this unit plug in or is it hard-wired? A bad or missing ground causes some goofy looking symptoms...and it's a cheap fix.
  • For those who want to know

    Dave and I have been communicating by e-mail. We think his SmartValve got fried by a lightening strike. He just e-mailed me and a new SV has been installed and everything is working fine.

    For those who are interested I have a complete manual on SmartValve and all the troubleshooting and shortcuts for solving any problems on the Smart Valve.
This discussion has been closed.

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!