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How to figure out BTU of old cast iron radiator

having your "Wheaties" first, then carrying it outside, a garden hose or pressure washer with a long wand should do the trick. Just do the best you can from the steam entrance port, don`t try to get the plugs out.<BR><BR>Dave

Comments

  • george_29
    george_29 Member Posts: 4


    Hi I am thinking of getting rid of my old cast iron rad because it is old and clogged. I saw some nice slick lightweight units on steamradiators.com but not sure if the btu output will match. Anyone know the BTU's on an old cast iron radiator. The dimensions are 56" length, 8" wide and 27" high. I have a second one in the room but am looking to keep it. The units I am looking to buy are around 6 - 7000 BTU. The room is 14' x 17' and 16' cieling. Thanks.
  • Ken_40
    Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
    Take a digital photo

    of the entire rad, including the valve and vent.

    We can hook you up lad.
  • george_29
    george_29 Member Posts: 4


    Hope these help.
  • Daniel_3
    Daniel_3 Member Posts: 543


    I can tell you that the radiator in that picture is an Eastwood which is hard to find information about. Nothing in the library here has info on that make of radiators nor google.com. Dan has a book called "EDR" which could have that make and model in there. I know that the btu's for that rad will match American Radiator co. rads of the same size.
  • george

    from what I see, that`s a 5 thin tube- 23 section-and as you stated about 27" high. To me that figures to 80.5 sq. ft EDR. fully hot.
    Based on steam at 240 BTU per sq. ft, it emits about 19,320 BTU`s, so if your looking to replace this with a 6-7,000 BTU unit, you`ll fall pretty short. That`s a big rad! (Edit)- These old lads can be removed, flushed, decorated to better match your decor, and reinstalled, and still maintain your systems function-ability, people here have done it. Worth considering?

    Dave
  • george_29
    george_29 Member Posts: 4


    Thanks.
    What's the best way to going about flushing it out?
  • Clogged???

    "Hi I am thinking of getting rid of my old cast iron rad because it is old and clogged"

    George,

    Your photo shows the rad with the valve still connected. Did you take the valve off of the rad and see a lot of debris looking through the spud into the rad, or are you having some other type of problem with the rad, (like not heating)?

    I also see that the vent is out. Did you take it out for the photo or for some other reason?

    Ed Carey
  • George_30
    George_30 Member Posts: 2


    Did not disconnect the valve yet. The vent is off because if I leave it on it fills up with water and the rad doesn't heat up. By leaving it off the water comes out of the vent hole filling up the plastic cup in the picture twice a day with water (24oz a day) yes the steam comes out also but if I don't do this I have a cold room.
  • You shouldn`t have to

    do that George, as I`m sure you know. I would think the condensate your accumulating in the cup is just condensing around the vent hole and running down (obviously). Perhaps this rad isn`t plugged like you thought. Is the hand valve all the way open? Ever tried another vent to see? Maybe take-one from another rad without this prob and try it on this.

    Dave
  • George_30
    George_30 Member Posts: 2


    I wish it was that easy. I tried all of that. You can even see from the pic that I pitched it. Someone did mention " Wet steam" but it's not happening on any other rad in the house.
  • Any

    banging or hammering in this rad, or the piping to it when the vents in? (Edit)- What`s its proximity to the main? The last one, longest run-out compared to the others? Is the main itself well vented?

    Dave
  • Rad problem

    George,

    If your other rads are heating and this one fills with water but does not heat with a vent in the hole, there is more of a problem than a clog.

    Is the valve handle turned completely open?? I assume so.

    Next, check the pipe from the steam main to that rad.

    Is the subject rad on a steam main where other rads are also connected? Do they heat ok?

    There should be a constant uphill pitch from the steam main to the rad. There should be NO low spots in that pipe, or places were water could accumulate in ANY quantity in that pipe from, the main to the rad.

    When older houses settle, the uphill pitch to a specific rad can be lost, and a water trap is formed causing a blockage in the flow of steam to that rad, but the others can work fine.

    If that pipe does not have a good pitch, or if it has a low spot, (water trap) the pipe must be reworked to correct the problem.

    If the rad is on a main where other rads are also connected, and they work ok,

    and ALSO,

    if there is a good uphill pitch in the pipe from the main to the rad,

    then,

    your radiator valve may be broken inside, and the valve seat may be closed even if the handle is in the open position.

    Ed Carey
  • JimH
    JimH Member Posts: 89
    try this

    let the radiator cool, then run the heat and wait for this particular radiator to heat up. leave the vent off just for testing purposes. as the radiator starts to heat try to feel out if the radiator is heating across the bottom of the radiator from the valve to the vent hole, or if it starts across the bottom then suddenly heats up across the top before the whole bottom is heated. if it does the latter, i would think that it is a clogged radiator, clogged in the bottom. if this is the case, the steam will heat the radiator by going around the clog, but the water cant drain out because of the clog; no matter how pitched it is. with the vent on it does not heat because it has water trapped blocking the air from escaping from the vent. does it heat quickly with the vent off. if so i think this is the problem. or it could also be a bad radiator valve. you do not have to take the radiator out of the house to clean it, just disassemble the valve from the radiator at the union. pull the radiator to the side about a foot and stick a broom stick handle through the hole and clear any blockage. if this doesn't work, change the radiator valve.
  • JimH
    JimH Member Posts: 89
    jim h

    i posted that last message, i dont know why it posted as author jim h. i must have had someone else using my computer earlier. sorry.
  • george_29
    george_29 Member Posts: 4


    Good Call AllenLeo. THe rad was hot top and bottom and then at the 9th section from the end the heat jumped across the top only. Want to come over and help me move this beast? Thanks To all.
  • Jim Bennett
    Jim Bennett Member Posts: 607
    George...

    I have seen quite a few radiator valves where the disc with the washer attached has broken off the stem and falls down onto the seat.

    On a one pipe radiator this would interfere with the condensate draining back to the boiler.

    Have someone open the valve and check.

    good luck,

    Jim

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Great you

    have narrowed it down George, make sure you keep us posted OK?

    Dave
This discussion has been closed.