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Swap B&G 100 for 007

Ken_40
Ken_40 Member Posts: 1,320
in THE MAIN WALL
The dynamics of both pumps are wildly different.

As long as the circulator is not mounted on the return, you'll probably be okay.

If it is on the return, you will create a monster. The monstare will be the much higher head of the 007 causing vacuum leaks where none now eist and the entire system will becom air bound at worst, make gurgling noises and have to be bled once a year at best.

If you "pump away" or re-pipe the boiler to have it "pump away" - you'll be a happy camper with the 007 or the S-100

Comments

  • Jimbo_5
    Jimbo_5 Member Posts: 222
    Swap B&G 100 for Taco 007

    After finding circulator pump problem, think I am better off swapping the B&G for a Taco 007. The boiler is an older WM PCG-3 that came with the B&G, yet the newer ones come with the Taco. All of my heat emmiters are 3/4" copper fintube, one floor, and back to the boiler. Any suggestions why this might not be a good swap? I figure it should be a "simple" swap, flange to flange, 2 wire electric. I have never done this before, and ideas? Anything I should look-out for? I figure the 007-F5 to be the one for me?
  • Dave Stroman
    Dave Stroman Member Posts: 766
    007 swap

    Of course you can make the swap. On a small residental system like yours there will no problem.

    Dave in Denver

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,399
    Go by flow rate and heat load

    The Ubiquitous 007 may be too much pump. Know your emitters and required flow rate plus how much pipe and how many fittings to get an idea. You may do well with much less pump.

    Nothing wrong with a 007 but if the circuit is a single 3/4" run 4.0 GPM (40,000 BTUH) against 9 feet of head. That is the equivalent of over 200 feet of pipe. Just a caution about over-pumping, but as others have said, it is done all the time and will work fine.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Why not try the

    Grundfoss 15-58 on low speed would probably be best if not med is close to the Taco 007
  • Jimbo_5
    Jimbo_5 Member Posts: 222
    Ok, now I am confused

    I called a plumber friend of mine today, looking for a B&G 100, and he has worked on this boiler before. He suggested that I avoid the higher cost of replacing the B&G, by opting for the "lesser" pushing Taco 007. The boiler was installed in 1978, and I believe this is the original circulator. Another residential plumber at work suggested the Grundfos Brute (UP15-42F) saying it cost about the same as the Taco, but fits exactly in place of the B&G. Yep, my head is spinning. This is getting very deep . . . .
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,399
    I would follow Bruce on this one

    The versatility of the Grundfos makes sense. Nothing against the 007..

    If that is deep, Jimbo, we should talk sometime about the philosophy of water flow.... ouch.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • John White
    John White Member Posts: 120
    007

    For what it's worth, to simplify this situation, remember that millions and millions of 007's have gone in to replace all kinds of other circulators. Last I knew they were all working pretty well.
    The 007 won't be a problem...take my word for it.
    jw
  • mtfallsmikey
    mtfallsmikey Member Posts: 765
    It will work fine!!!

    Been there, done that.
  • Uni R_3
    Uni R_3 Member Posts: 299
    And pays for itself!

    0.75 amps instead of 1.75 amps

    That amp difference costs $0.30 a day (assuming that it is running non-stop) or more depending on your electric rates. At $80 that's 277 days of run time. Less than 2 seasons later it's money in your pocket. It probably won't last as long as the B&G which can be rebuilt indefinitely but you can afford a new 007 with the electrical savings.
  • Jimbo_5
    Jimbo_5 Member Posts: 222
    Thanks . . . .

    I think I will follow Bruce's advice. I was trying to go the best, yet less expenxive route. As for water flow, I got an ear full about di-electric nipples, brass ball valves, and copper pipe at work today. It seems that some folks are REALLY hung-up on installing a di-electric nipple before the ball valve. I always "thought" brass was alright, but copper was a problem. Hey, my head is still reeling . . . and now I've got to go buy a circulator and install it. Thanks for the imput.
  • Jimbo_5
    Jimbo_5 Member Posts: 222
    What's this indicate?

    The pump I have to replace is actually blue in color, not that that matters. It "says," series 100, FU, 232. Can anyone tell me if this pump is any different than today's series 100. I'd like to swap it for a more cost-effective modern pump.
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    same pump, different paint job

    wiel-mc lain painted their series 100 blue. identical to the red ones.
This discussion has been closed.

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