oil burner with too much co

andre correia

I think there might be some flame impingement in the combustion chamber because trhe burner isn't really bolted down. It can slide back and forth easily. So I wouldn't doubt that the flame is too close to the back of the chamber. I looked at the flame and it didn't look really bad but I will try and back it out a little. The nozzle is a .85 60H. I have to go back to recement the burner and I'll set it further back and run a combustion analysis on it again. The boiler is a real pileof junk and if it weren't my cousin then I would of red tagged that thing a long time ago.

andre correia

tuning an oil burner

I'm a novice technician in oil burners. I was checking out my cousins boiler this past weekend and I cleaned it for him,replaced the oil nozzle,electrodes,filter,pump screen and ran a new oil line in which the old was kinked up.one problem is that the burner is being held in by cement due to the mounting deteriorated. There are gaps of air entering combustion chamber and I told him to replace the boiler asap. He will replace this spring. So I got it going for him just to make it past winter. The problem is that the stack temp was really high (750) which is expected no matter how much I shut the air shutter cause of the air infiltration. The o2 was at 11% and the nozzle is a .85. single family house. Now the co was around 125ppm. I tried to get it lower without sacrificing the efficiency but it wouldn't improve. The smoke was like a 5 and the draft was around -.03 to -.04''w.c. at the flue pipe. The smoke would not improve and the co wouldn't either. The pump pressure was at 100psig. I tried increasing air but it wouldn't change the co much more. Should I put a smaller oil nozzle on the burner? It's a carlin with an old stack switch safety. any help would be appreciated.

rjm

more info..

> I'm a novice technician in oil burners. I was

> checking out my cousins boiler this past weekend

> and I cleaned it for him,replaced the oil

> nozzle,electrodes,filter,pump screen and ran a

> new oil line in which the old was kinked up.one

> problem is that the burner is being held in by

> cement due to the mounting deteriorated. There

> are gaps of air entering combustion chamber and I

> told him to replace the boiler asap. He will

> replace this spring. So I got it going for him

> just to make it past winter. The problem is that

> the stack temp was really high (750) which is

> expected no matter how much I shut the air

> shutter cause of the air infiltration. The o2 was

> at 11% and the nozzle is a .85. single family

> house. Now the co was around 125ppm. I tried to

> get it lower without sacrificing the efficiency

> but it wouldn't improve. The smoke was like a 5

> and the draft was around -.03 to -.04''w.c. at

> the flue pipe. The smoke would not improve and

> the co wouldn't either. The pump pressure was at

> 100psig. I tried increasing air but it wouldn't

> change the co much more. Should I put a smaller

> oil nozzle on the burner? It's a carlin with an

> old stack switch safety. any help would be

> appreciated.



Can you give more info about the burner,boiler,and what nozzle is being use? In the meantime, the smoke is wicked high. Carlin burners usually run with a 60 degree nozzle. Did you happen to see what the condition of the retention head? Also check to see if there is any obsturtions either in the chamber or flue passages.

Norm Harvey

If your getting smoke and CO, I would investigate the combustion chamber and make sure that the infiltration didnt cause any carbon buildup saround the endcone, and check that there is plenty of room for combustion.

If the flame is hitting any obstruction you can create smoke.

Too much air should be giving you a zero smoke reading. If your getting smoke, I would look elsewhere for the cause.



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andre correia

too much co

The flame retention head was fine. no carbon build up. The boiler I want to say is an IPG. The burner I beleive is a 100crd.

RonWHC

Len Fisher designed

the 100 CRD differently than other retention burners of the time. For lower firing rates the firing assembly should be pulled back in the air tube. Look where the firing assy protrudes from the side of the burner housing. The knurled knob can be loosened & the assy pulled to the rear. You will also have to loosen the locking screw.

Don't have a Carlin Book w/ me. I would start w/ the air band (the round metal band) closed. Open the shutter (the outer flat adjustment) to about 50%. Pull the assy back to about 3/16 - 1/4" from the rear index mark (on the same side of the housing as the knurled knob). Take a test. Adjust the air shutter for further tests.

If you get the CO under control, but the O2 stays high, look for air leaks around the chamber, air tube, or between boiler sections. The 60 degree SS Hago nozzle was prefered @ that input. I think the 60 or 70 degree B Delavan are substitutes. Designed for 100# pressure. Good luck.