Hot water zones off of a steam boiler!!!!!

John@Reliable_10

http://www.heatinghelp.com/newsletter.cfm?Id=29

Mr. E

Dead pumps (Again)!!!!!

I got a service call in regauds to two hot water zones that were piped oof of a steam boiler that were both not working. this boiler was a fairly new replacement about a year or so. When I got there I did not pay much attention to the two used Taco oo7's sitting off to the corner. on the boiler were two new looking B&G wet rotor pumps maybe (NRF-22) the pump for the basement zone was condemed right away, but the one for the den zone witch is above the water line I had to install apurge and isolation valve before I could fill the loop. The side of the loop that had a purge valve to fill also had a check valve arrow towards the boiler witch would not allow for flow. Anyway after this bit of pipe work and filling the loop I relized that the pump for the den zone had also failed but not picking up that there might be an underling cause. I suggested to the customer using a bronze pump would be more sutible for this type of system though missing Dans sugggetion that it should be a three peice bronze pump in my last reading of his how to use the hotwater condensate on a steam boiler. Any way I installed two B&G NRF Bronze Fox circulators, filled the loop above, opened the isolation valve below for the basement loop and hit the switch. Everything returned hot and I was happy. The job lasted for about three weeks when I got the call the den zone you just fixed is not working. I figured it might be anything but you guessed it the pump for the den was no good or so it seemed i purged the zone again but nothing happened now maybe they were off on overload or some thing but it just hitt me that some thing here was just (FUBAR)if you donn't know what that is you need to go see another 48 hours. By the way the pump for the basement zone was also dead. Now i started to look around a little more and here's what I Can tell you. There is no bypayy line or temp gauge on either loop. the pumps do pump away from the boiler. There are coin bleedeer keys on the den zone in a few places but they are all closed. Thats as much as I can tell you smart guys out there, atleast for now and could really use your help, cause I hate angry customers who bad mouth and donn't pay you. Thanks!!

Mr. E

Dead pumps (Again)!!!!!

I got a service call in regauds to two hot water zones that were piped off of a steam boiler that were both not working. This boiler was a fairly new replacement about a year or so. When I got there I did not pay much attention to the two used Taco oo7's sitting off to the corner. On the boiler were two new looking B&G wet rotor pumps maybe (NRF-22) the pump for the basement zone was condemed right away, but the one for the den zone witch is above the water line I had to install a purge and isolation valve before I could fill the loop. The side of the loop that had a purge valve to fill also had a check valve arrow towards the boiler witch would not allow for flow. Anyway after this bit of pipe work and filling the loop I relized that the pump for the den zone had also failed but not picking up that there might be an underling cause. I suggested to the customer using a bronze pump would be more sutible for this type of system though missing Dans sugggetion that it should be a three peice bronze pump in my last reading of his how to use the hotwater condensate on a steam boiler. Any way I installed two B&G NRF Bronze Fox circulators, filled the loop above, opened the isolation valve below for the basement loop and hit the switch. Everything returned hot and I was happy. The job lasted for about three weeks when I got the call the den zone you just fixed is not working. I figured it might be anything but you guessed it the pump for the den was no good or so it seemed I purged the zone again but nothing happened. Now maybe they were off on overload or some thing but it just hitt me that some thing here was just (FUBAR)if you donn't know what that is you need to go see another 48 hours. By the way the pump for the basement zone was also dead. Now I started to look around a little more and here's what I Can tell you. There is no bypass line or temp gauge on either loop. the pumps do pump away from the boiler. There are coin bleedeer keys on the den zone in a few places but they are all closed. Thats as much as I can tell you smart guys out there, atleast for now and could really use your help, cause I hate angry customers who bad mouth and donn't pay you. Thanks!!

Mr. E

Plaese Help.

Take a look at (Hot water condensate off of a steam boiler.

Jerry_15

I've done this before and a coupled pump must be used for heat over-limit, it also needs to be on the return to the boiler, to dump some heat before it hits the pump. Bronze is a good idea since it is a open system after all. I'm sure you already have a y strainer and flow check in the line. You can also put in a tempering valve and really dial in your temp through the system and the pump. I've actually done this for a pex addition on a one-pipe steam system using a small heat exchanger and creating a separate closed-loop. Didn't even need a pump on the boiler side as I piped it in close and low. Used a pool exchanger backwards so I could run the boiler water through the big taps on the outer shell. Good luck!

clammy

hot water off steamer

To do it correctly you must use a by pass and a few valves and most important is to put a high limit in series with either your circulator control circuit or circulators hot line either way set it for 180 and thia way your pumps will shut off when the condensate temp is to hot .Even better and not excluding the high limit is to pipe the baseboard return back into the the boiler and back to the pump suction side add a few valves to adjust the amount of water yopur pulling out of the boiler then get the boiler to call for heat (steam side ) when she steamind good turn on your hot water zones using a thermometer (strap on digital thermomister)adjust the bypass so you don't shut off on the high limit you installed in the supply side piping of your circ system .I have done this many times and have used reg taco 007 cast iron pumps and had them last quite a few seasonsmainly because there installed way below the boilers water line and they never see temps over 180 /190 .what kills them is not only mud but the high temp and condensate flash in the circ while the boilers steaming .By pass and hi limit on each circ is the way to go .I know the 3 piecers work much better but price wish i'll replace a 007 instad of a series 100 bearing assem which no one ever oil until it's shot again ,why cause no one gets stuff serviced yearly until it don't work .Check out hot tech topics dan's got it all in there peace and good luck clammy

Jerry_15

I think Clammy and I agree about pump on the return, and there is no limit to the number of aquastats, valves, by-passes, etc. that could be used to run a simple loop off the bottom of the boiler. Guess I'm just lazy. Coupled pump on the return, check valve, y strainer, below the water line, you can even run a line voltage t-stat right to the pump (they have a set-back programable now) and skip the relay. Miller time.