any master Tankless Coil replacement people?

T-RACY

put a hex nut over broken bolt,even if broken off flush,weld it on this will both heat it ,shrink it, and provide a nice place for your impact socket,works for me.No need to be a super welder.gotta eat a little soot to get to the gravy.good luck with it.

GW

any master Tankless Coil replacement people?

Heat guys,

I have this guy who's been giving me some good jobs (apartment complex). He has a 10 year old W/M 5 section 88. The tanlesses were abandoned for a big 119 gal Super Stor some time ago. Now the gasket is leaking on one of the coils and he's asking me to dive in and get rid of the coil/install a blank plate.

I've got my hands dirty in the past drilling out busted bolts and retapping, but if there's a master out there I'd be tickled to know the best way to keep the bolts from popping.

Thanks for any help!

Gary

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John Lenhart

sometimes this works

Two tricks that might work for you. 1 if you heat the bolts with a torch slightly and apply bees wax to it, the heat will draw the wax in and loosen the bolt. The bees wax can be found at any plumbing shop or home improvement store.(used to seal toilets) 2 Kano kroil penetrating oil. You can buy it off the internet or possibly at a gun shop. It has worked well for me on several occasions. If they are corroded to much, you might end up getting out the drill and tap. Another option is to cover it with silicone and wait till summer.Hope this helps and good luck.

EBEBRATT-Ed

If you get them out use brass bolts or better yet use studs made out of threaded rod (gives you two chances instead of one) and never seize.

ED

Joe Grosso

Coil bolts

I have taken to using an electric impact on these.It actually lessens the breakage, I always thought it would make the problem worse, but it does not.

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Big Ed

Let them break

.....turn the plate a degree and drill and tap new threads. Shallow threads use rod and nuts.

Have to drill through ?,drill a larger hole. send a bolt with a swatch of rainbow rubber from the inside out. The gasket will hold it in place...

Tom M.

If the gasket is leaking,

then it has probably already leaked into some of the bolt holes causing them to rust into the boiler and/ or snap when you try to remove them.

I use ZEP 45 for penetrating oil. Depending on the condition and shape of what's left of the bolt (sometimes they're corroded into a cone shape) I have a number of things to use: A stud remover that goes on a 1/2" ratchet, channelock "nutbusters" and a 6" pipe wrench. If these don't work, I use a left hand low speed cobalt drill bit. It removes the material in big chunks and if it catches, it backs the bolt out.

I think it was more than ten years ago that W/M started using studs and brass nuts on their residential but I don't know about the 88 series. You may luck out.

Tom M.

brucewo1b

brucewo1b

tricks

I don't know about the 88 but the 66 series bolts do not go into the water chamber if one snaps I drill a hole in the center of the bolt all they way through and spray some PB Blaster in with one of the red tubes that come with the PB. Spray both sides wait and gently tap with a pair of vise-grips on the bolt if it broke far enough out other wise use the left handed drill bits.

Long Beach Ed

When I get them out

I replace them with stainless...

Jaitch

Maybe the cart before the horse, but here goes....

Long ago I started to take an xtra half hour with each new unit. I would remove every bolt that I could find, coat it with antiseize and return it and retorque it to it's original postition. Found quite a few loose bolts this way, and if you ever go back to replace a coil, or install a chamber - something that requires not-often turned bolts and nut to be turned - it is a REAL BREEZE.

Dosen't help your problem today, but may aid you in the future!

God Bless Permatex Antisieze! (A little dab'll do ya!)