Radiant heat - Help!

Barb

If the silver boxes are the zone valves, which normally have the lever to the left, are they open when you push them all the way to the right? How do you know when you're finished? And what, pray tell, are the makeup valves? I'm guessing I do this when the system is on, but not calling for heat. Is that right?

Thanks guys.

Barb

I have a Weil-McLain system. How do I get air out of the loops? I have the purge valves closed now, so I think that's where the problem came from.

Barb

Also, what are the silver boxes near the IPC panel? There is one for each zone and they have a lever on the bottom. What does that lever do?

zeb_3

Not to offend you

Not to offend you but you really need to get someone(who knows what things are and what to do) to take care of this for you

Barb

The thing is, I have no money, at all. I put the coils in myself, and I have spent 25 years in construction, so I have a background that lends itself to understanding matters like these.

I figured purging the system can't be that hard. I also figured out what I'd done to make the system not work at all, by reading a manual I have. It just doesn't explain these things.

[Deleted User]

You must think like water, grassshopper....

Close your eyes and think of yourself as being the water inside the pipes. You must enter the system from wherever you're introduced under pressure, and you must flow in a proper direction, moving as quickly as you can, sweeping air in front of you, pushing it out of each branch like a long, liquid piston. You're trying to get to the point of no pressure, that being the outlet, from whence ye shall fall.

Remember, you are wet, lazy and stupid. It takes closed valves to show you where you NEED To go, not where you WANT to go. You start by chasing the air out of those lines that are closest to your source of point of discharge, then start working your way upward and outward as you go. You know, that air is a wiley coyote, always seeking higher ground. In fact, you may have to stop "chasing" him, and you may have to jack the pressure up on him to make him rise to the top. Once there, let him out manually.

Think like a fluid...

ME

Barb

Too funny

Mark - I'm still laughing at your explanation. Interesting that you chose a spiritual vent, cuz it's me all over. I was hoping for a direct answer, but can see that your way will serve me much better.

I get isolating the loops. I know where the outlet is, and I know where the button is at each manifold to release air. What I don't get is how to increase the pressure.

ChasMan

Well, you mighgt be able to do it just with boiler pressure by opening up the drain and then opening a zone valve. I beleive those silver boxes with little levers are your zone valves. Just be carefull. Dont be tempted to open the makeup valve.

Barb

Another try

I'm posting this so I won't get erased before I have the info I need to get the air out of my radiant loops. I know it's kind of like cheating, but I don't know where else to get help.

Kevin O. Pulver

Barb did you get the help you need?

I am not as experienced as many here, but if you increase your system pressure, it will help the water to absorb the air and bring it around where it can get out at the air scoop or air eliminator/power vent or whatever you have that sounds like a pressure cooker when it's spitting air.
The pressure can be adjusted at the regulator/pressure reducing valve where the makeup water is added to your system. Some have a full pressure bypass line or feature on the valve itself. This part of the system keeps pressure on the system to push air out. You can't exceed about 30 pounds or you will blow the pressure relief valve on the boiler. SO I would do that as a last resort. But look at the temperature/pressure guage on the boiler and make sure you have some pressure there. Typically 12-15 pounds on a 2 story residence.
MAKE SURE by the way that what ever air elimination system you have is OPEN. It will have a cap (that is possibly missing) which is about the size of a valve stem cap on a bicycle or auto tire. The cap needs to be unscrewed, and you need to have water pressure on your system. Then you need to get the water moving. Sometimes working one zone or loop at a time helps. Having the water hot will absorb more air too. This air eliminator/airscoop with the tiny cap is where the air comes out because the pressure comes off. (Think about the gas bubbles in a pop bottle when you take the lid off) And I'm not being sarcastic here, but if you need help from a friend or neighbor, lure him over with a pie or cookies. It's a great way to show them your appreciation and motivate them to help!
And Merry Christmas!
Kevin

Plumdog_2

25 years in construction

and no money? I can relate. You take what Mark said, and then figure out how to BLOCK the flow on all parts of the system except the part you are purging; so the water can only go one way-forcing the air out ahead of it. Then repeat with the other sections. If you have a Pressure Reducing Valve on the fill line, you can often lift the little lever at the top to increase the pressure temporarily to assist the movement.

[Deleted User]

Grasshopper....

Look for one of these. It reduces the operating pressure of the system to around 12 PSI. It may have a lever on it that can be lifted and raised the pressure temporarily.

Beware of the pressure releif valve.It is set for 30 pounds, and you WILL know when you've hit its threshold. Make certain you do not get burnt by hot water...

Proceed with caution grasshopper...

Report back when you've discovered pure comfort.

Donny

little silver things

as noted above are zone valves, the only thing not explained is their function, if you try to move the little lever [in your case installed at the bottom] and you feel a slight resistance, the valve is closed, however if it kind of stays wherever you leave it it's powered open. If you move it it's full travel distance then move it lightly forward you will feel it lock into open position, [usefull in purging and incase its motor burns out]. Depending on the way your system is wired, when the controlling thermostat calls for heat, the end switch on the zone valve may cause the circ pump to start, manually opperating the valve lever will not cause this to happen.