Choosing a new boiler.

Bill in Eastern PA

Our home was built in 1905 and is approximately 1900 Sq feet. We currently have a Weil-McLain 68 boiler. System is hot water...very large 2.5" mains in the basement. Looks like it was originally gravity feed. I've had proposals for New Yorker FR-122 (20 gal), New Yorker Fr-147 (40 gal) both with coils, New Yorker FR-HGS (9.5 gal) with an indirect tank, as well as a Dynatherm 24 and an EFM PK450 (also 20 gal). Some have said we need a BIG boiler due to the size of the mains, others have said that the 20 gla size should be more than adequate. I'm looking for thoughts on size and any thoughts on the brands listed. Also, should we see an improvement in oil consumption going to a 3 pass horizontal tube design. We have very hard water so I am thinking indirect is the way to go as coil clogs are very common in our area. Thanks

Bob W._3

If it was my place, what with the ever rising fuel prices, I would put in a modulating condensing boiler with outdoor reset, the works.

kevin coppinger_4

more than just....

the boiler...how are they to pipe this boiler up? Even if you have a big water content boiler the mass of an old gravity system can create problems...If oil is your fuel of choice a primary secondary set up whith a good boiler control like Tekmar is key....I might look at a Buderus 215 boiler w/ their ecomatic control...Gravity systems are really neat...I wish i had one in my house. kpc

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Al Letellier_9

new boiler

What's wrong with the old one? The Weil 68 was a great boiler and can't be all that old. Water content is important when dealing with old high-volume systems, but the correct piping arrangement is even more important, to protect the boiler from thermal shock. Boiler mass is thus, not so important as long as it can produce the required BTU's. There are multiple options available to you. Find a Pro you can trust, make sure he has experience with this type of install and hire him. we have used Weil and Buderus boiler very successfully in this arrangement.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Bill in Eastern PA

We have corrosion where the coil goes into the boiler. Water seeps out when the unit is shut down for cleaning and we have been told that eventually it will fail at this point (2 years ago). Will this happen all at once or gradually? It never leaks when it's in operation. The unit does run very reliably and I'm getting a little skeptical of some of the claims that we will see a 20% decline in oil consumption. We have averaged around 1200 gallons per year in a house with minimal insulation. Our major beef is getting enough heat to the radiators at the far end of the runs leads to uneven temparatures on the second floor.

Joe Brix

You're right

on the larger water content and using an indirect. Dynatherm boiler has 25 gal. Well respected 3 pass steel boiler. Just don't get an indirect that uses a finned coil HX. They clog up also. Vaughn is concrete lined with a removable coil. Phase III has tank in tank design, no coil with stainless steel. Great as long as water is not high in clorides.

Floyd

It's called a gasket....

and that's all you really need... however if you are going to replace the boiler, shouldn't the question be.... what is the heat loss and what size boiler do I need to make up the heat that I need to heat the house???? Screw the number of gals in the boiler, it has nothing to do with how it will heat your house!!!!!! You could take a boiler with two gals. of water in it and if you can get the boiler to more the water through it fast enough to pickup enough heat to heat your house you will be just fine.!!!! Sounds to me like all these companies want todo is sell you a new boiler!!!! Have they looked into your concern about the lack of heat in the far reaches of the system...???? a new boiler won't fix that!!!! An indirect is always a good choice... it will be way much better than a coil.... just as was stated ....don't get an indirect WITH a coil IN it!!!
Now find someone that will be willing to talk about takeing out your coil, place a new gasket over the hole with a blank plate and hook up an indirect....

If you insist on a new boiler check out the new WM Ultra oil boiler, if!!! hooked up right, it will save a ton of fuel.
Piping is VERY critical with those old big pipe hydronic wonders....but they can be made to work very well and efficiently.

Floyd

Bill in Eastern PA

Sounds like you are confirming some of what I have been hearing...that I have a relatively effecient boiler and that changing the boiler itself will not necessarily tranlate into to big fuel savings. I had been lead to believe there was no way to fix the seepage problem...which struck me as a little odd. Thanks for the perspective. I need to do some more looking for someone who is willing to get the most out of the system I have before I commit to a 4-5K outlay.

clammy

opitions

How about getting rid of the tankless and put in a good indirect tank that will save you money and do some p/s pumping with outdoor reset and constany circ and as for indirect tanks and poor water quality i would go with a buderus st tank it has a removable top clean out and is a breeze to clean should you have to .If you are going to replace your wiel and gas is not avable then it's a no brainer go with the properly sized buderus g115 or g215 3 pass design no combustion chamber and a super brezze to clean comes with baffles to adjust stack and draft one of the best oil boiler around in my opion.Every one i've install had reduced the HO fuel comsuption and kept the boiler room a little cooler with there insulation package . peace and good luck clammy

kathy in vt

Biasi or System 2000

My in-laws boiler has been leaking all over the basement floor and they're being told they need a new one. Old one is an HB Smith and the company wants to replace with same. I want an energy efficient boiler, and asked about a Biasi B-10, but the company says those have lots of problems - chronic no-heat and sooting. Any comments?

He recommended a System 2000, installed for $6700 (the HB Smith, installed, is $5,700.)

He recommends an Amtrol water heater, WH7Z. Life time warranty. 41 gallons. They have a tankless coil right now.

Does anyone know the System 2000? How about the Amtrol?

Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.