B&G 100

[Deleted User]

But I am having an issue with my one year old Series 100. I have been getting quite a bit of screeching. Will it die a slow death with more and more warning, or will it be a catastrophic failure?

See this thread...http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&Thread_ID=45016&mc=1

Also, when I oil, the pump bearings do leak oil everywhere. The motor bearings don't seem to.

Jimbo_5

B&G 100

After reading everyone's comments, I have decided to ask for an actual opinion number to number. The circulator I must replace is a G&G (ITT) series 100, FU, 232, painted blue. Is there a particular circulator, other than another B&G, that will fit and function as close as possible to the one being removed? I am trying to be as cost-effective as possible, which is why I was trying to avoid the price increase of the B&Gs. I am trying to learn as much as I can. It would be easy enough to just throw in another circulator, but I'd like to understand at least some of the reasoning behind the obvious. Thanks

Darin(in Michigan)

Series 100

I like the B&G. Sorry. They have great starting torque, can be verified they are turning and seem to run forever as long as they are oile properly. Change the mounts from time to time and keep the bearing assembly oiled and let it go.

Unknown

Series 100

is a great circ, low head compared to most wet-rotors, but that depends on the application. Like Darin says, proper oiling is a big factor in their lifespan.

Dave

Couderay

B&G

The series 100 pumps are the cream of the circulators in my opinion. If they fit your particular system go for it.

Plumdog_2

Just curious

Does your existing pump have a two-foot spherical oil slick all around it? Does it crap out on ya pretty regular? Start making whirring noises, then clicking, then little springs fly out and the heat stops working? Do you get the same guy out there every couple years to repair it? If the answer to any of these questions is yes; then you need an exact replacement (NOT)

McKern

I'll counter

I'd take a 15-58 or even a 007 over a Series 100.

Quieter and more economical and who wants to oil?

The Series 100 is really noisy compared to a 15-58.

A 15-58 spd 2 or 007 use about 0.75amps. A Series 100 takes 1.75 amps. With continuous circ and a 1 amp difference, you are adding 30 cents every single day on your electric bill.

The Series 100 will last forever. Ultimately, it's kind of like seeing George Washington's axe in a museum and reading that it's the 4th handle and 2nd head. The small guys are cheaper to buy, cheaper to run, quieter and ultimately and unfortunately disposable, but that takes a long time.

Want my old one? It's red. It was running perfect when I pulled it.

Unknown

Uni R

Agreed in electricity consumption, but some systems are not suited to wet-rotor circs, comprendey??

Dave

oil-2-4-6-gas

i would take a Grundfos or Taco anyday --i have replaced more of the B & G's than i can count --its old technology -& efficiency -kind of like those American Standard boilers --which will last forever but is it worth it??

McKern

Just giving him more thoughts...

Unknown

with my experince

New series 100 are the crappy ones... Bearing NEVER lasts more than 3 years...
I change over to wet rotor pumps and change out the steel tanks with bladder type tank....
Heck, just today, customer called about the screeching noise coming from the pump... I stopped by, been there before with former owner... Old series 100 that my dad installed it in the 50's ! Oiled it and running quiet... Nothing like the 'new' made in the last 20 years.. Oh yeah, WAY overpriced...

Unknown

another one...

Another B&G series 100 craploa bites the dust....

[Deleted User]

There are still some

applications for the 100. H/W heating loops off steam boilers being one. However, the real reason B&G still makes them is the profitable parts replacement business. And. Some folks still relish the income from repairing them year after year, after year, after year.

When we replace a 100, we calculate the required GPM & head. Most times a wet rotor NRF 22 will do the job. If it's a one pipe system, or we have that knawing doubt, an NRF 33 gets the nod. The NRF 33 has the same GPM (33)rating as the 100. The head starts out higher & the curve is flatter, but we've never had a problem.

Time to make a choice. Go wet rotor. No 2:00 AM busted coupling or oil/lint mixture plugging the burner air shutter. Sleep well for 5 years, or more.

Unknown

Old ones were better

The old B&G 100s were definitely built better. The one in my parents house has been in service since 1955 and is still running today. Only repair was a new coupler in 1977. Like everything else they cheapened its construction and materials. I think the recent ones have plastic impellers vs. the bronze of the early models.

Joe Mattiello

Sometimes I simply scan this great interactive web site for threads related to Taco products, and find some fun reading with different opinions of manufactures products.. Working for Taco, one might consider me biased, even though I try not to be when offering assistance with a Hydronic system issue. This thread is more about which pump to go with though, and I would feel remiss if I didn’t add my correspondence. A pump or circulator what ever terminology you’re more comfortable with can be purchased from anyone. Everyone can agree there are plenty of pump manufactures out there, but what differentiates one from another, and what type of character does the end user have. Taco prides itself on providing a quality product, excellent customer service, and technical support; this I can attest to, because that’s what I do, and I encourage anyone one that needs help to call us. So, if you’re in the market for a pump, consider maintenance; are you the type to do preventive maintenance on your pump, or would a maintenance free circulator better fit your profile so you can be hanging out on the golf course. What happens if the pump doesn’t work properly? Can you pick up the phone and get in touch with a live person, and successfully explain your situation to a support engineer? I can tell I’m rambling on now, but I hope I made my point. The 007-F5 does have similar operating characteristics, and it’s maintenance free. See attached submittal data information.

Kevin_in_Denver_2

Spiralink Coupler solution for 100 series

I can vouch that this aftermarket coupler will outlast the pump. At least one of the problems goes away....
http://www.westwoodproducts.com/images/Spiralink_XRef.pdf

oil-2-4-6-gas

the Spiralink coupling only masks the problem of sagging motor mounts --though it is a much better designed coupling - i have used in many --sites and different pumps --up to 60 series --and cuts down on some of the noise

Philip Nasadowski

We had 100's for years in my parent's house. My bedroom was right above the heating system, and I got used to the noise. With baseboard, you knew the heat was coming because of that gentle, yet always there rumbling noise. Oddly, a friend's place had one and you only heard the motor's 60hz hum. Oh well.

We put in Tacos with the new boiler a few years ago, and they're darn near silent, though one's starting to act up - I pulled the rotor and rinsed and shook it, it's quiet again. Go figure. I've heard Grundfos are a bit quieter, even.

I hate the tossaway nature of the Taco, but it's a far quieter unit - you barely hear it even near the boiler in the basement.

Oddly, the only industrial application of wet rotor pumps I've seen by me is oil coolers on NJ's commuter trains. The big Flygt, FM, etc stuff I've seen is all 3 piece, but then again, when your motor's 2000hp...