Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Trinity install done! (pics)

bill_71
bill_71 Member Posts: 46
that looks pretty good for a d.i.y job. to set it up for proper operation you absolutely need to have a combustion analyzer (the old fyrite is just wayyyy to slow). keep it running on low fire by adjusting the lo fire setting on the sentry control, keep a faucet on and take your tests.adjust the air/gas as needed. the factory has told me to keep the co at around 95 ppm out the flue and you can almost set the thing up by just reading the flame sense.......

as dr. heat will attest to, i have much more experience then i ever could by going to a training course.i had to rebuild 26 of these due to factory goofs(of course nothing was admitted to) in the original design

Comments

  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121
    And asking for help

    Well almost done. Just have to add the condensate loop/drain and extend the PRV down.
    Here are a couple pics of the job.

    Since I have had no luck finding a Pro in my area who will start this system up for either of two reasons,1. I did the install myself. 2. None have worked with a Trinity boiler before. I am considering trying it myself. Would anyone who has experiance with the Trinity be willing to give me some advice?
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,399
    An install to be proud of!

    Very neat and tidy, easy to follow!

    I like the offset backboard to make for neat wiring. Wish I had done that....

    What is the triplex gas piping arrangement at the floor (3/4")? And that small electric DHW heater?

    Excellent work, Andy.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121


    This is an addition to my house, the radiant is for the floor around our indoor pool. The gas piping your speaking of is feeding in for the mechanical room and then back out to a small heater in my shop.
    The small electric water heater is for the 1/2 bath sink that services the pool area. That seemed like the best way to go.
  • McKern
    McKern Member Posts: 71
    Wow!

    NY Thermal should have some shots for their literature! Excellent layout and detail!
  • steven_5
    steven_5 Member Posts: 6
    Supply??

    It may look nice but unless my eyes decieve me I dont see a supply from the boiler. The tapping where the relief valve is installed is where the supply pipe tapping is. It looks like the primary loop is pipe from the return port to the run of a tee, leaves the branch of the tee does a big loop and goes back to the tee.
    Sorry in advance if I'm missing something
    Steven
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Stev

    Look close the supply is directly in front on the return, if you look below the circ you will see a 90 going back toward the wall then another 90 returning to the boiler. on the supply that is a 90 going up not a tee
  • Couderay
    Couderay Member Posts: 314


    Are the rubber connections for the fresh air and exhaust from the factory? Or am I missing something here.And yes a very impressive install.
  • steven_5
    steven_5 Member Posts: 6


    Sorry, My Ipologies
    Next time I will look closer before I say anything.
    Nice Install, very neat
  • Plumdog_2
    Plumdog_2 Member Posts: 870
    nice work

    Make sure you put the condensate trap on before firing; and you MUST dial it in with an analyser. Perhaps the local rep would come out and help.
  • MIke_Jonas
    MIke_Jonas Member Posts: 202
    Two questions..

    Is the secondary piping between the primary side and the manifolds big enough to handle full demand of all of the loops? I can't judge pipe size very well from the picture.

    Is there a pressure regulating valve? If not, how does the system/control operate so one is not needed? OOPS, my bad, as the young hipsters say nowadays, I just noticed you have to move the prv down, I thought that might have been a purge port.

    Very nice install!!!
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121


    The fernco(rubber) boots are not factory. The boiler comes from the factory with solid pvc couplers but I got the fernco idea from other installs I've seen and liked that better.
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121


    Primary loop is 1-1/4" and secondary loop is 1" which is large enough for the manifold.

  • Singh_3
    Singh_3 Member Posts: 58
    Nice work

    That is the plumbest run of pex into the manifold I ever seen!!
    Obviously , a lot of planning and prep work into that, I like the 2x4 bracket for
    the conduit ells also. Is that a slab sensor wire? Where does the condensate go?
    The only thing now, set up with an digital analyzer.

    Devan
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121


    Thanks, and yes that is a slab sensor going into the last chase way. In my first post I stated I still need to run the condensate loop(which goes to a floor drain about 1 foot away) and PRV discharge pipe. Those are both done now.
  • Dave_4
    Dave_4 Member Posts: 1,404
    What are the chairs I am seeing

    Tell me about the slab reinforcement. Am I seeing chairs? Is the PEX down tight to the foam insulation, with the resteel above?
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121


    Yes, the pex is tight to the insulation and the rebar is on chairs above that.

    2" insulation with the pex stapled to it. rebar sitting on 2" rebar chairs. Slab 5" thick.

  • Dave_4
    Dave_4 Member Posts: 1,404


    Size of rebar? Looks like #3.

    Spacing?

    Really good looking job, BTW. How much DIY do you do?
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121


    Gene, The rebar is #3 on two foot centers also I used 1.5lbs of fiber per yard in the concrete mix. As for my DIY experiance, I've framed many houses along with completely building 3 houses which I did the whole job except concrete, drywall and sheetmetal work(HVAC). The electrical and plumbing is no problem for me but I just don't have the analyzers or experiance to get my boiler set correctly.
  • Greg_40
    Greg_40 Member Posts: 43


    The only advice I can offer is you really need to have a HVAC pro who owns a combustion analyzer to check your Trinity out upon initial firing. The CO2 needs to be within careful parameters - CO also needs to be within a scale, but CO2 is the critical test for proper combustion. You did a nice looking install- compact & neat. I also like to use a neoprene connector for vent piping for easy inspecion & service. The ones I use are stainless steel reinforced band no-hub connectors.
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121


    Finally found a commercial contractor who has a combustion analyzer and is going to come out this afternoon and give the install a once over, fire the boiler and make sure everything is working properly.

    I've already purged all the air out, so his job shouldn't be much more than flipping the switch and testing gas pressure, flue gas and combustion.

    If i'm missing anything else that should be checked, please let me know.
  • Andy_14
    Andy_14 Member Posts: 121
    Up and running!

    Technician just left. Everything runs excellent.

    Gas was 6.5" wc

    CO2 was 8.3

    O2 was 6.1

    CO was 44

    All which seem to be fine.

    Thanks to all who helped.
  • MIke_Jonas
    MIke_Jonas Member Posts: 202
    What size..

    What size is the boiler and what is the heat load per
    loop(s)? Just curious.
This discussion has been closed.