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One pipe steam system

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Peter_15
Peter_15 Member Posts: 8
I have a one pipe gas steam boiler (Burnham model IN6). We moved into this house in 12/05. Our gas bills were exceptionally high last year. When I began reading info on this site and one of Dan's books (We Got Steam Heat) I learned about the pressure and discovered ours was set at about3 1/2 to 4. I changed this to 1 1/2. Our gas useage appears to have decreased some. The other problem is three of our four bedrooms do not heat up as much as the other one (all on 2nd floor). Our system has no main vents and never did. I was looking at having a main vent added at both ends of the main. The one contractor who came out said he would cut the main about 15" back from the end and install a T and put the main vent on the T. Then I saw a thread here indicating you can just drill a 1/2" hole on the top of the main about 15" from the end and weld a 1/2" coupling to the top of the hole and insert a Gorton #2 main vent. This seems like a lot less labor. The one contractor I have had look at the system recommended putting Gorton vents on all my rads. He also suggested my boiler was not installed correctly (installed 10/99). I am uploading some pictures. I am appreciative for any advice I can get. Thank you in advance! Peter

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  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
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    incorrect piping

    either way will work. get the prices both ways. welders are not cheap. the boiler installer had not a clue. he connected it and got it to work and that was the end of story.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
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    He's right about the boiler

    that near-boiler piping is all wrong. There's no header, and the Hartford Loop's horizontal pipe is too long and has a check valve in it. I'll see if I can find the piping diagram and post it.

    I usually drill into the side of the last tee, tap it for 1/2-inch pipe thread and elbow up to a Gorton #2. Works fine as long as the horizontal pipe is sloped slightly back toward the steam main.



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  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,398
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    Main Vent

    However you go about it, a main vent is a step in the direction of your happiness. The welding versus cut and thread is just means and methods. Not everyone can weld and in existing confines may not be practical. If it can be done, great.

    From your second photo (#2693), the last take-off is close to where the vent might go; I am suggesting that you may have to reconfigure that regardless to afford distance downstream of the last take-off and to have 15" upstream of the return drop.

    Keep in mind this all has to be done while maintaining your "A" dimension (waterline to lowest steam-carrying pipe).

    If your "A" dimension is being compromised, you could install a drop header. I do not have the Burnham recommendations for the IN-6 but it would be worth it to review the literature anyway, just to make sure it conforms. Think 'low velocity leaving'.

    Your near-boiler piping seems questionable to me, both the steam-side and condensate return side. The check valve in the Hartford Loop where a close-nipple would normally go.

    There are many others with much more hands-on steam experience than I, by far. I will sit back and read a bit.

    EDIT: While I was typing they were busy too.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
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    Here's the piping diagram

    and these are minimum specifications. If I were piping that boiler I'd use the IN7 specs- two 2-inch risers from the boiler and a 3-inch horizontal, and two risers from the header to the system eliminating that bullheaded tee.

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  • Peter_15
    Peter_15 Member Posts: 8
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    What type of problem might this near boiler piping cause? How important is it to remedy? I will get it fixed but I only want to get it fixed once. Are two main vents crucial or is one sufficient?
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
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    The improper piping

    can cause wet steam, banging, poor steam distribution, high fuel consumption etc. etc. etc. That installer must have used the unopened instruction envelope as a knee pad.

    Measure the length and diameter of your steam mains and we can tell you what vents are needed.

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  • Peter_15
    Peter_15 Member Posts: 8
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    The one side is 22' long the first 4' is 3" and the remaining 18' is 2 1/2".
    The other side is 36' long, the first 19' is 3" and the remaining 17' is 2 1/2"
    By the way do you know anyone who works on steam in the Harrisburg area?
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
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    I'd vent the short main

    with two Gorton #1 vents (which could both share one 1/2-inch tapping) and the longer one with a Gorton #2.

    Not sure if Dave Yates and the merry men of F.W. Behler in York would come that far, but there's no harm in calling. Tell him I sent you.

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  • Peter_15
    Peter_15 Member Posts: 8
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    Thank you so much for your help! This site is a God send. Take care! Peter
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