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Another Deadmans work bites the dust
William Faust
Member Posts: 168
Steven - Will there be steam rather than water at the level of the boiler's skim tap when the boiler is in operation? If so, is the ball valve's plastic part rated for steam?
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Comments
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Ashes to ashes .....dust to dust
Just thought I would post a few pics of replacement job for one of my slum lord accounts.........he does spend only when he has to though.......I dont know about the rest of you but I like to take advantage of the 1 1/2" tapping that is available to skim the boiler off, thats what the 1 1/2" ball valve on the side is for, much cleaner than doing from the top.
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Nice work!
I'm no pro, but that looks great to me!
I think I'm going to use your tip about the 1 1/2" ball valve to make skimming easier.0 -
That old argo must be pre-1920; what say steamhead or dan?
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Very nice Steve
Steve i would either cap or plug the ball valve, just for safty.
Nice work!
David0 -
your right.
Thanks for that advice Dave, I should have been thinking from the average laymen's brain that would question why that is there and open it, instead of a mechanical minded brain that knows why it is there and not open it without a reason
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The age is about right
and it was probably about 40% efficient with that conversion burner in it.
Steve, why the barometric in the tee? Wasn't the draft hood enough?
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You can't fool me....
Why did the landlord finally spend the money to replace the beast?
You can't tell me this thing finally leaked? Probably good for another 15 years at least.
LB Ed0 -
I have one of those old table saws...
i put a one HP 120V motor on it when i changed motors.
Nice Find.0 -
Weezbo
does your saw have a diverter and x-tank like the one in the picture?0 -
Spill switch?
Shouldn't there be a spill switch at the upper barometric releif, just in case...?
I presume the upper barometric is there because of excess draft, or did it just get left there from the previous appliance?
ME0 -
upper barometric because.........
By the time I got to smoke piping this boiler,I noticed that the supply house gave the the wrong size elbow,They were closed,it was late, and these people needed heat, so I improvised, overcomed, adapted, and used what I could find. I am replacing it Monday along with a cap for the skimmer set up I installed.
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gotcha...
But if I were you, I'd try soemthing before you pull it.
1st, lock the barometric damper closed. In fact, tape aluminum over the inlet just to completely take it out of the picture. Then do a combustion anaylsis. Looking in particular at your net stack temperature, excess O2, o2, CO and CO2 readings and IGNORE the net combustion efficiency number if you don't already.
2nd, re-enable the barometric damper adjusting it to -.02" W.C. pressure at the boiler flue preaching, and block the factory draft relief hood, then retest.
3rdly, report back to us and share your findings.
Thanks for playing the "What if..." game. I think you will be suprised at the findings, especially if the chimney is a tall one.
If for some reason, you decide to leave the barometric in place, install a manual reset spill switch near the top of the baro, right where spillage might occur, and wire it in series with the TT circuit.
ME0
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