Buffer tank

Eric Johnson

I came here looking for some information on Eko wood gasification boilers, since I'm planning to buy one next summer. I noticed that hot rod highly recommends a buffer tank for wood gasifiers. He said that he uses a 500-gallon LP tank for that. That sounds to me like a good alternative to very expensive insulated, pressurized storage tanks.

Am I correct in assuming that I could buy a used LP tank, plum the thing up & insulate it and add it to my pressurized system? Any idea what a tank like that goes for?

Alternatively, I'm considering putting in some sort of four-way mixing valve instead. I have a big old house with about 15 ci radiators, plus a lot of old iron pipe and an old Weil-McLain gas-fired boiler, so there's probably 300 or 400 gallons in the system.

Would that, in your opinion, be a workable alternative to a buffer tank?

Eric Johnson

Or, a stainless milk tank

A friend of mine suggested an insulated, stainless steel milk tank. Apparently they can be had at farm auctions for pennies on the dollar. I don't think you could pressurize a tank like that, but you probably wouldn't need to.

steve_145

I went with a 3000 gallon fiberglass tank. It is non-pressurized, obviously, and has several copper coils inside to transfer heat from the boiler and to transfer heat for the house. It works fine. Got it off eBay for very little money.

Everyone told me it was too big, but it works fine. It takes a day to get it up to temp from 60 deg in the fall. But, I can go away for 3 or 4 days and come back to a warm tank that is still heating the house.

Insulation is the key. Put more on than you think you will need.

Good luck.

Eric Johnson

Thanks Steve. Sounds like a great set-up.

hr

a buck a gallon

for used tanks around here. Getting that smell ,out is a chore, however.

I like to use a pressurized vessel to stay away from bacteria issues in an open tank. I had that happen with my first concrete tank with a foam lid. Hard to seal them airtight without getting a pressure build up when they heat.

Tarm does it sucessfully with that folding 500 gallon tank they offer, from the seveal I have worked on. I may have given up on mine too soon, but it really smelled up the shop

A friend in Ohio clains to buy outdated LP tanks for scrap metal weight. I guess in some states they cannot be filled after a date code expires? Not the case, or at least not enforced around here.

Wood boilers really need a buffer in my experience. I think the EKO, Atmos, and a few other websites show buffer tanks of 500, 750, and 1000 litre. It depends on how the load matches up, and how often you want to fire and refire the boiler.

hot rod

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Eric Johnson

Any thoughts on a using four-way mixing valve instead, especially with an old, cast iron rad system like I have?

hr

4 ways are common across the pond

they really need a motor and control to drive them and realize their benefits.

Here is a clever pump/ valve for wood burners. It offers a boiler circ, return temperature protection, and a thermostatically operated over heat port in the event of power outages.

Clever, I've only seen them in 230V Euro styled of course.

The system you are describing is in the installation diagrams with the EKO sales slicks. As seen here. I believe their website has them downloadable also.

Or try Zenon's page at www.newhorizoncorp.com He has some piping data there.

hot rod

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hr

Here is that Laddomat

with buffer tanks in the Atmos installation drawings, also www.atmos.cz

Looks like they gang more common, less expensive storage or "accumlating" tanks in 500 or 750 litre sizes. Easier to site than a 500 gallon tank

I don't know who builds the Laddomat, looks like a Wilo circ head.

I'll search it out at ISH Frankfurt next month

hot rod

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Eric Johnson

Hoist one for me

Thanks for your help, hot rod.

Hoist one for me while you're there.