Loop Hot-Water Heating problem...

Darin

I'm with Jason. An air bubble in the circuit will behave the same as a defective pump or impeller(sp?). You'll feel better if you've verified that the circuit is full of water before you change a pump than if you change a pump and still have the same problem. Purging a circuit without a pump can be a B!@#$H without a utility pump and how to do it. Maybe a call to someone who knows what they are doing can save some headache in the long term.

Derek L. Long Island, NY

Loop Hot-Water Heating problem...

I have a 6-room, 1000 sq. ft ranch on slab (no basement), with 1 zone, oil fired furnace for heat and hot water. I turned my heat back on recently, and discovered that last room in a loop gets no heat (each room is cooler then previous). There were no such drastic differences in a heating from room to room last year. Could this be, as simple as bleeding the system? None of my fin-tube baseboards, have any vales…do you bleed at the furnace?
I had service performed in the summer, and a fuel pump replaced few weeks ago….

bob young

180*

check the water temperature. maybe the aqastat has to reset.

Derek L. Long Island, NY

It's set at 180FHi and 140Lo...first two rooms in a loop get planty hot!!!

Derek L. Long Island, NY

It's set at 180FHi and 140Lo...first two rooms in a loop get planty hot!!!

dann crist_2

I believe you have a circulator problem--perhaps a deteriorated impeller

Empire_2

Dan's on the right track

There is a flow problen. Things you need to do to speed up this problem. Use isolation valves on pump so that the impeller can be inspected and or pump changed out. Nice and easy with valves. Also you need a perge valve to perg any air that may be in the system after a drain and refill.

Dale

Pressure

What's the guage water pressure? Is it still 12# cold? Low pressure can cause low flow and it's easy to check.

Empire_2

12psi?

4 psi should be enough to operate this system. With all due respect, why is fill pressure relevant in this ranch style house? I could put 28psig on this boiler and it wouldn't have any bearing on flow. Do you agree?

jeff_51

pressure can make a big differance

even in this situation. When it comes to removing air, the more pressure the smaller that air bubble is going to be, the easier it will move through the system and back to the air illiminator. You probably are set up for forced bleeding back at the boiler. Make sure you are bled properly and the pressure up before you do anything else. Yes you have a circulation problem, but that could be caused by a partial air lock which can really impede your flow. If that doesn't do it, than yes, check the pump

Jason_19

first things first, purge the system free of air!! if that dont work then its most likely to be poor performance by ur circ pump. good luck

Unknown

leuvers

Are the leuvers on the baseboads in the cold rooms closed? If air is not allowed to convect through the fins the rooms wont heat.

- Norm

Derek L. Long Island, NY

Thanks all for your responses. All the basics are covered, and before getting involved with pumps and such, I’d like to try bleeding the system.
My only air vent is by the furnace (non along baseboards). It’s in line, right by the furnace, mounted to top of the Air Scoop (I believe that’s the name) which ‘sits’ on top of expansion tank. I tried ‘manually’ bleeding it, but now it has a leek (when furnace fires only)…I am suspecting, that due to its age, it’s just stock!
Finally my question.
Do I need to DRAIN the SYSTEM/ Furnace), to replace the vent, or just shutting the furnace down, will eliminate any pressure, allowing for this swap?
Also, right now it’s a #70 Float type air vent, rated at 45psi, and all I can find is #67 Auto-vent rated at 50psi…is the substitute OK?
It’s a long store, as to why I am not calling ‘my’ fuel company back…in process of getting a service from someone else.

Weezbo

Derek bag the maid o mist and get a spiro top jr...and a nipple.

spin it in where the 707 used to be....it will preform small miricales