Pictures or diagrams please!!

Mellow_2

1. I would put the cold water feed at the exp tank or the point of no psi change. 2 I would not put a vent on the return. 3 I WOULD use a bypass it is better for the boiler. 4 I would only put the purge on the supply like they show and I would not need the others 5 if you are using zone valves you do not need flow controls but with circs for each zone you do. sorry for the short reply but have you thought about calling a pro in to look at the system?

tm

pictures or diagrams

I am installing a Biasi B-3 boiler. I will have 3 zones including my domestic hot water. I am so far using a burnham piping diagram (my instructions did not include a diagram). I could use some pictures of a job done or reassurance that I am doing it right. I am "pumping away". Here are some concerns:
1. I can't decide whether to feed my cold water into the bottom of boiler or teed in between the ex. tank and the air scoop as shown on my drawing.
2. I am using an air vent above the scoop - do I really need another at the end of my return manifold? If so what is the easiest way to pipe it into my 1 1/2" black pipe? I have 1 1/2" tees coming off a horizantal run so far.
3. I am NOT using a boiler bypass valve or pipe between supply and return as shown - hope this is OK.
4. My drawing only shows one purge valve at the 1st tee coming up from my supply riser. Should I incluse one at each supply zone as well? If so where should they go in relation to the cirulator, flow control and shut-offs??
5. I will need 3/4" flow control valves - is there a certain type I need to look for?
Thanks!!

tm

Yes - many reasons why I am doing this job myself. I did work for a plumber for a few years but that was 12 years ago. I also was an electrian for 10 years. I am a good mechanic and can do a job as good as anyone. From drawing to drawing there seem to be conflicts and differences - so which pro will do it "right". I like to gather up as much data as possible and make up my own mind about what makes sence, what is necessary, and how to best do things. A picture is worth a thousand words - I am looking for more pictues and drawings and advice in order to help with my decisions. Thanks again

Mellow_2

O K

If it was me I would look at the books dan has at" shop for books and more". Two books are a good start "pump away" and "how come". you can read them on line or buy....I assume you have baseboard heat but I could be wrong....It is hard to know how to pipe a system without knowing the system layout.....The differance in piping is because of the differance in boilers and how they control the differant heaters.( baseboard, radiators, rad flooring, covectors etc.) the books have the best pics on all systems I have seen. good luck

tm

Thanks mellow,
I have hot water baseboard - very small house (1250 sq. foot) and will use indirect hw tank on priority zone. I don't see need for the bypass line/valve. It seems only needed for radiation or low temp systems -am I wrong about this? How can it help me? How can it hurt to not have it in my situation?

tm

How do you buy/read the books online??? I only saw the way to oder/ship. Thanks

Ted_9

heating

Biasi and Burnham may have different schools of thought regarding the piping. Plus the boilers may be different, there fore require diff. piping.

Instead of have us engineering this for you online, have you tried Biasi for their piping diagrams? Did you call or email them? What about the people that sold the Biasi to you?

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Ragu

Tom

I agree with Mellow's design points, and also with Ted's advice; all that stuff is available from the Biasi distributor. Try Quincy Heating Technology 1-800-501-7697 or Email: qhtinc@aol.com

tm

Thanks, Unfortunately my book (Owners manual/instructions) has NO piping diagram. It does have many control schematics. I could not find anything online either. I sent an email to the aol address you suggested but no reply as yet.

Ted_9

Biasi B-3

I couldnt find the B-3 online. What is the exact model number.

I did find the SG and the B-10. These are oil fired csat iron.

I also found the condensing wall hung models.

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tm

Ted,
the B3 is the smallest of the B10 series(Vega) - shown in book as a B13(67MBH)It is an oil fired with a Riello.
Tom

Ted_9

piping

I would pipe it like this.

Go to this link javascript:__doPostBack('_ctl0$_ctl6$_ctl0$grdDocuments$_ctl8$lnkDownload','')





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tm

Hi Ted,
I can't get that link to come up. Please try to direct me..........Thanks!!!

Mellow_2

Tom

When you click to buy the book it will have a box "read pages" click this and you can sample the book first before you buy. If it was me I would buy them and I did. I have worked in this trade for ten years and this is the most correct info out there and very easy to read....

Ted_9

go to this site: http://www.buderus.net/Default.aspx?tabid=47

Then click on the "DownLoad" link to the right of this: Logamatic Wiring Schematics - Applications Manual

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tm

Hi Ted,
Thanks - got to the site but could only find: R2105 - Supplemental Wiring Schematics. I clicked on that and at the end found: Ecomatic H52105 piping and control schematic. Is this the diagram you suggest I follow??

tm

Ted, I kept searching the site and think I found it. Is it the application drawing on page12 (ECO-002/Mechanical????
If so, this is exactly the way I was going to pipe it. The drawing does NOT show a boiler bypass between the supply and return just as I was hoping as I do not see the need in my case. You agree then?
Thanks again Ted if I have this right you have confirmed my plans. Much appreciation!!

Rollie Peck

Pictures or diagrams

Hi Tom:

I, too, am a homeowner with some knowledge and experience with plumbing, heating and wiring. I had wanted to install my own high efficiency boiler to replace my old one. After reading a lot of information here on The Wall, I became convinced that a knowledgeable contractor could save me a lot of trouble and expense in the future. That his expertise was worth paying for. I found one, bought the boiler and all the special fittings and attachments from him and paid him for his consulting time. I am now glad that I did - what I wanted originally would not have worked out well and would have wasted a lot of money. I now have a high quality, trouble free, safe and efficient heating system.

I urge you to do the same!

Rollie Peck

Homeowner

Ted_9

scroll back up to this section: Controls - Boiler & Room

Then click on : Logamatic Wiring Schematics - Applications Manual

And why do you need a bypass. I thought you had high temp baseboard which normally was designed at 180 degrees?

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tm

Ted or anyone,
the diagram shows what looks like a zone valve at the end of the maifold but before the circulator going to the indirect hot water tank. What is the reason for this? I have a 4 zone switching relay - do I need that zone valve??
Thanks, Tom