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Blown-in Insulation

Constantin
Member Posts: 3,796
.... Corbond and Icynene. I am happier with the Corbond job than the Icynene job my insulating contractor did. In my experience, Corbond does a better job of adhering on all sides of a stud/rafter/joist bay and it's continual drive to expand fills bays nicely with a stiff, hard foam. Our contractor didn't like Corbond much, I imagine it has to do with the extra labor required to finish it (dressing).
However, try finding a contractor who'll do Corbond in a closed cavity. Unlikely to happen. Thus, it would be Icynene with a Thermal camera that would ensure uniform filling...
I have heard good things about dense-pack cellulose, even in closed-bay applications. Again, a thermal camera in the wintertime would give you a good hint as to what area is lacking in the stuff. Staircases (with all their bracing) can be difficult to insulate well, for example. Bugs and fire are not an issue as long as the borate and bromide treatments are not washed out.
No insulation except XPS will tolerate water. Even Corbond (closed-cell Polyurethane) will eventually saturate with water and do bad things behind your walls. Thus, be sure that the exterior surface is water tight. Alternatively, investigate the PERSIST system if a re-siding job is required in the not-so-distant future.
However, try finding a contractor who'll do Corbond in a closed cavity. Unlikely to happen. Thus, it would be Icynene with a Thermal camera that would ensure uniform filling...
I have heard good things about dense-pack cellulose, even in closed-bay applications. Again, a thermal camera in the wintertime would give you a good hint as to what area is lacking in the stuff. Staircases (with all their bracing) can be difficult to insulate well, for example. Bugs and fire are not an issue as long as the borate and bromide treatments are not washed out.
No insulation except XPS will tolerate water. Even Corbond (closed-cell Polyurethane) will eventually saturate with water and do bad things behind your walls. Thus, be sure that the exterior surface is water tight. Alternatively, investigate the PERSIST system if a re-siding job is required in the not-so-distant future.
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Comments
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I know this question is off-topic.....but I thought maybe some of the wise folks here could help me benefit from your experience. Actually, this is related to saving heating oil, so there is a connection. I want to hire a pro to blow celullose insulation into my 1921 house, but I am a little spooked by the stories I have heard. What are the pitfalls of cellulose insulation? It seems like the cheapest alternative, but I am afraid of how it will hold up in 20 years. Im concerned about moisture, bugs, fire, settling, etc. The insulation retrofitting industry does not exactly have a squeaky clean reputation, and its hard to get genuine answers especially this time of year when everyone is going gangbusters with insulation. What is your experience with blown-in insulation? What product did you use? What should I look out for? Thanks.0 -
Added insulatoin
My house was built in 1927.
20 yrs ago I had fiberglass insulation blown in , with the entry points thru the plaster. Quite a mess.
There are some holidays, easily felt on a cold winter's nite, but it has made a huge difference in fuel and comfort. There were no known adverse results from this installation.0 -
Cellulose
The new cellulose insulation has flame retardents, moldicides and bug repellants in it, so those concerns are non-issues.
There is no down side to blown in cellulose.
Mark H
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
cellulose the way 2 go
Have a thick layer added on top of whatever you have in your attic space. Best bang for buck in retrofitting.
You can buy the bags and rent a blower from the big box stores and DIY.
The dense pack walls I'd leave that to a Pro.
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