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air vents on one pipe system.

bosjim
bosjim Member Posts: 17
It's one continuous pipe with only the risers coming off this main. I don't think I want to get involved with more venting on main. With the "new" old air vent I put on last rad the system is very quiet now and even though rad only heats halfway across I would rather live with that than do the added main vents with the added cost of it.

Thanks again. I do appreciate your time and help.

Comments

  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17
    air vents and heat across rads.

    Should all air vents on one pipe steam system be open fully or just enough until rad heats fully across? Last rad on system won't heat fully across.

    Thanks.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Main vents OK?

    if it's the last radiator, the steam is probably reaching it later than the rads close to the boiler.

    Measure the length and diameter of your steam mains, and tell us what vents are on them. You should see them at or near the ends of the mains, sometimes they're up on short riser pipes.

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  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17
    air vents

    I have a two story house with the typical amount pf piping for 7 lage rooms and 2 baths. There is only one vent on the return main near the end. Main pipe measures at 2 1/2 inches with riser pipes to the rooms at 1 1/2 inches.Guessing there to be about 90-120 feet of main! Just a guess as I didn't measure.
    It's the original main with the original coal fired furnace now converted to oil burner (3rd one). Original conversion was an old Timken converted from the coal to oil.

    I had been having noise problems wuth that same rad and finally replaced the air vent-not new but working okay. That rally helped to a stop the noise and clanking. I think the washer type valve was moving from water inside. At least that was what it sounded like and was part of the noise. Now the system is very quiet.I have now tried with the air vent as wide open as I can set it and will see how that does.

    I can live with the lack of heat in this bedroom to half of the rad if I have to. I believe I have the rad vents all over adjusted so I get more and faster heat downstairs as bedrooms not so important.

    Hope this helps you with any further response.Thanks very much.


  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17


    I believe there is about 90-120 feet of main and they are 2 1/2 in. diameter.There is only one vent at the end of the return main. Pipes to rooms off main are 1 1/2 in.

    I opened the last rad air vent to widest I could and will now see how that affects it.

    Hope this hekps. Thanks very much.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Is there just the one main

    that is 90-120 feet long from start to finish? Or is it split into two or more shorter mains?

    If the former, you need a lot of venting. Three Gorton #2 vents at the end of the main should get the steam to that last rad in a super hurry.

    If the latter, we'd need to know how much pipe is in each part.

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  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Vent the mains

    the fuel savings will be worth the investment.

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  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17


    > the fuel savings will be worth the investment.

    > _A

    > HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

    > 367&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

    > Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

    > "Find A Professional"_/A_



    Date: January 12, 2007 07:27 PM
    Author: Steamhead (allsteamedup@verizon.net)
    Subject: Vent the mains

    the fuel savings will be worth the investment.

    Steamhead, how or why will I save fuel from vent the main
    with more vents as you suggest?
  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17


    Steamhead,

    How or why will I save fuel? How many vents and where should they be placed if I did? Any idea of cost?
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Steam is a gas

    and can be compressed if you apply any pressure to it.

    With the main vent upgrade, the steam will distribute under much less pressure. And the main will fill with steam more quickly. This means the boiler will run less to fill the system with steam.

    Your mileage may vary, but we have noted savings over 30% on some systems after upgrading the vents.

    Try State Supply to order your Gorton #2 vents: www.statesupply.com .

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  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17




    Thanks very much. I understand.I'll check out that web site and decide later.I'll post if I do anything. Most appreciate your help Steamhead.
  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17
    correction to main steam pipes length.

    Steamhead,

    I want to correct my very bad estimate of the main steam pipe lengths. They are only about 50-60 feet total. There are 10 or 11 sections connected with 45 or 90 degree elbows.The last 4-5 feet from main return just below the main vent area connects to Hartford loop and is included in the total length.This makes up the one continuous main piping around the basement ceiling to which I referred in previous post.

    Is this what you meant when you asked if the mains were split into two or more shorter mains? Also, the one main vent at the end of the return main is about 12 inches in height from top of main to top of the vent.

    Hope you will see this and comment further.As always, I am very grateful.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    So

    the mains split off from the boiler, then loop around the basement and re-join before being vented and returned to the boiler?

    This could be interesting. If the steam fills both mains at the same rate so it reaches the vent location from both directions simultaneously, you should be OK. Just put the Gortons at the present vent location.

    If the steam does not reach the vent location from both mains simultaneously, you'll end up with trapped air at the end of one of the mains that will drastically slow down the steam to the last rads on that main. The solution here will be to vent each main separately and then drop the returns below the waterline before they join together.

    I'd say, try the Gorton upgrade with the present setup. If all rads get steam at about the same time, no further action is needed. If not, we know what to do next.

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  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17


    Steamhead, thanks for responding again. I'm probably more confused! Your answer seems to say that I have two separate and distinct mains. I only see it as one main. It starts by coming off the header and loops around the basement and then back down to boiler thru the wet return I think it is. Is that correct? It's just that all those pieces of main pipe are joined as one main via elbows where the main has to turn or loop around. I don't see two mains that can or do join together!

    The main looks like it starts higher and as it loops around the basement it must gradually go lower or tilt towards the boiler so the condensate will drain back to boiler. Is that not so?

    The one and only main vent is near the end of the main going back to the boiler. Hope this dos not confuse the issue and that you understand what I am trying to convey.

    Thanks again for all your time and help.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    OK

    that's your typical loop-style main. Put the three Gorton #2 vents at the end and watch how well it works.

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  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17


    Steamhead,

    That sounds rather costly- 3 Gorton #2 vents! I would have to hire someone.I tried to view the present main vent but it's markings are turned towards the chimney which made it hard to read. Pretty sure it said No.17 Vent-Rite.They had to use two adapter fittings or step-downs to get proper size threaded area for the vent to install.

    I think I'll try a new adjustable radiator vent first to see if that might do the job. No harm and cheap enough to be worth the try. What do you think of that?

    I had been having some noise problem with that same rad until I recently replaced the rad vent. Type had a set screw on top to adjust.It quieted down to virtually no noise but still won't heat those last tree rungs.

    I shut down the pc early last night so just now saw your posting again. Thanks very much.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Those three #2 vents

    are the right parts for the job. That's your primary consideration. You'll either spend the money to do the vent upgrade right, or spend more money to do it twice. Your choice.

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  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17


    Steamhead, okay, I'll see what I might do. I really do appreciate your time and help. Thanks a lot.


  • chuck_6
    chuck_6 Member Posts: 107
    Bosjim - listen to Steamhead!

    Bosjim:

    Steamhead has helped me out many times, so listen to him. If you cannot get the Gorton #2 vents online, speak to Ken at Gorton. His number is (908) 276-1323 and he can tell you where to get them locally. I am a homeowner as well and have Gorton vents on the mains and radiators. Properly venting can save you money each month. If you cannot do the work yourself, at least buy the vents and have someone else put them in. The investment is well worth.

    Chuck
  • bosjim
    bosjim Member Posts: 17


    Chuck,

    Thanks for your affirmation of Steamhead.I will try to do at some point. Thanks again.
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