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Why is my hotwater baseboard heat not very hot?
Tim_44
Member Posts: 4
It's down in the teens here on Cape Cod and though my thermostat has been set at 72 all day, but the room temp in the house hasn't topped 65F all day.
Question: Is there some adjustment on the heater or furnace I can make to increase the heat output from the baseboard units?
Background: I have a gas furnace (Weil-McLean) with indirect fired hotwater heater and baseboard heat, zoned. The hotwater heater (SuperStor Ultra, 60 Gallon) is new, installed in August. It's producing hot water for faucets just fine, set at 135F. But the baseboard units (in both zones) don't feel hot, just sorta lukewarm to the touch. Granted, it's colder today than it has been -- but I don't recall this problem in the past five winters which have been colder.
I have setback thermostats for two zones. The main rooms (kitchen/livingroom) are set to fall to 55F from 11pm to 6 am, while my bedroom is zoned to remain at 68 at night ... but the bedroom thermometer was reporting only 60F when I arose this morning.
I am wondering if, when the new hotwater heater was installed, that something was overlooked or some furnace/hotwater heater setting was not done correctly ... or some line needs bleeding, etc. Everything seems to be working fine, just not kicking out heat as in the past. I know very little about furnaces and heaters, but I can fix most things (including my 1954 Packard). So, before I call the contractor, I'd appreciate any advice from you experts!
Hope to hear from someone ... meantime, I'm going to go put on a fleece and light a fire ...
Thanks,
Tim
Question: Is there some adjustment on the heater or furnace I can make to increase the heat output from the baseboard units?
Background: I have a gas furnace (Weil-McLean) with indirect fired hotwater heater and baseboard heat, zoned. The hotwater heater (SuperStor Ultra, 60 Gallon) is new, installed in August. It's producing hot water for faucets just fine, set at 135F. But the baseboard units (in both zones) don't feel hot, just sorta lukewarm to the touch. Granted, it's colder today than it has been -- but I don't recall this problem in the past five winters which have been colder.
I have setback thermostats for two zones. The main rooms (kitchen/livingroom) are set to fall to 55F from 11pm to 6 am, while my bedroom is zoned to remain at 68 at night ... but the bedroom thermometer was reporting only 60F when I arose this morning.
I am wondering if, when the new hotwater heater was installed, that something was overlooked or some furnace/hotwater heater setting was not done correctly ... or some line needs bleeding, etc. Everything seems to be working fine, just not kicking out heat as in the past. I know very little about furnaces and heaters, but I can fix most things (including my 1954 Packard). So, before I call the contractor, I'd appreciate any advice from you experts!
Hope to hear from someone ... meantime, I'm going to go put on a fleece and light a fire ...
Thanks,
Tim
0
Comments
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How to increase hotwater baseboard heat?
It's down in the teens here on Cape Cod and though my thermostat has been set at 72 all day, the room temps in the house haven't topped 65F all day.
Question: Is there some adjustment on the heater or furnace I can make to increase the heat output from the baseboard units?
Background: I have a gas furnace (Weil-McLean) with indirect fired hotwater heater and baseboard heat, zoned. The hotwater heater (SuperStor Ultra, 60 Gallon) is new, installed in August. It's delivering hot water for faucets just fine, set at 135F. But the rooms are cool and the baseboard units (in both zones) don't feel hot, just sorta lukewarm to the touch. Granted, it's colder today than it has been -- but I don't recall this problem in the past five winters which have been more frigid.
I have setback thermostats for two zones. The main room zone (kitchen/livingroom) is set to fall to 55F from 11pm to 6 am, while my bedroom is zoned to remain at 68 at night ... but the bedroom thermometer was reporting only 60F when I arose this morning.
I am wondering if, when the new hotwater heater was installed, perhaps something was overlooked or some furnace/hotwater heater setting was not done correctly ... or some line needs bleeding, etc. Everything seems to be working fine and quiet, just not kicking out heat as in the past. I know very little about furnaces and heaters, but I can fix most things (including my 1954 Packard). So, before I call the contractor, I'd appreciate any advice from you experts!
Hope to hear from someone ... meantime, I'm going to go put on a fleece and light a fire ...
Thanks,
Tim
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What is the high limmit on the boiler set at?? It should be at 180 degrees.0 -
Don't set your t-stat back to 55
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Does the bedroom zone ever get hot?0 -
Trial and Error
Start with the high limit, if that is about 180-200 than you may have a operating aquastat that could be set low.
Than call the installer of the indirect and see if it is creating a problem due to piping arrangements etc. If that does not solve the problem get a second opinion!
Cold temperatures are what get the system to design temp.If the add-on heater was not factored in or given second priority your boiler may suddenly have become too small! In other words it can't keep up.
In extreme low temps this is common, however only a professional can determine what the design temp. is for your area. There are many variables that go in to properly designed systems.
Rich K.
Make Peace Your Passion0 -
bb problems eh?
There are many reasons that would cause your problems. Let's give it a look...........Your aquastat [that is the devise that controls the temperature of the water in your boiler] should be set at 180*; Do you have a circulator for those two heating zones? Is it working? When the superstore was installed, did anyone make sure the boiler is capable of providing both heat and hot water at the same time? Those SuperStors are a great product, but ya gotta give 'em the BTU's. Maybe ya oughtta try shutting down the SS to see if the heat comes up. I'm going to assume you had the heat on this season already. Did it work OK before? BUT was the outside temp. the same. Normally, heating is sized to raise the temperature about 70* higher than the outside temp, so at 11* outside, you should be able to get about 80* inside. ONLY IF the BB was sized correctly along with the boiler and the SS1 -
supply temp?
what temperature is the boiler supplying the baseboards at?
Is the boiler running non stop?0 -
#1,
Get the furniture and drapes, etc.. off of/away from the baseboards.
#2, have the fins EVER been cleaned ? The amount of "stuff" in front of , AND on top of the fin tubes directly effects the ability of the emitter to put out its "output @ perscribed temperature".
#3, As stated before....is the high limit set for the temperature that the baseboard was designed for?(3rd ? part B, ...what WAS the design temp. for the structure AND has it been surpassed in this cold snap?)
See a pattern here? This isn't quite as cut and dry as most folks think!We work HARD to provide what you need when you need it. Your cooperation is not just appreciated, but needed...for us to provide you with a "heating SYSTEM".
It isn't just the "furnace"....it's a SYSTEM. JCA0 -
Poor Heat response from baseboard
Tim,
Try the simple stuff first. Has the air been bled from the radiators (baseboard) after the indirect was installed? If not, that could be your entire problem. Next, is the system pressure sufficient to bring the hot water up into the baseboards? You should have about 10psi in a 1 story installation, 15psi for two story etc. I seriously doubt that the indirect is taking that much heat from your boiler unless somebody is using scads of hot water. I suspect the above will cure your troubles. Let us know!0 -
Hot Water Baseboard Replies (thanks to all!)
Whoa, I didn't expect so many of you guys to answer so quickly ... I really appreciate it!
Let me try to sum up my answers to your many replies and queries:
• I'm sure the furnace is sized fine. The replacement hotwater tank was installed by the same HVAC pro who designed and installed the entire system 10 years ago. The new tank simply replaced a worn-out same-sized model from the same company, SuperStor.
• The baseboards are lukewarm in both zones, so I don't think it's a zone regulator problem.
• The baseboard units are clean and dampers open. I took off all the covers and cleaned the fins this summer so I know they're clean (and yes they WERE dirty and dusty before).
• Outside temps here have been mild (35-55) up until today so I think that's one reason why I noticed the heat wasn't pumping until now. We had one brief cold spell before Christmas and I noticed it then ... but things warmed up again, until today which was in the teens.
• Re questions about the setting the proper hotwater temp limit -- well, I guess that's what I've been trying to figure out how to do.
Mounted on the side of the hotwater heater, there's a CONTROL box with an on/off toggle switch. Removed the 3-sided cover, and there's a spur dial with temp numbers stamped on it. I'm assuming this is the Aquastat. This is the dial I used recently to adjust the water temp for the bath from 120 to 135.
SO .. do I simply increase this Aquastat dial setting up to 160 or 180, as several posts have recommended? If so, will this mean my shower/kitchen water will be at 180 ... a bit too hot??
I see no other such control mechanism on the tank, and the electric wire from this CONTROL box seems to run to the zone regulators ...
I'm just wondering if the 180F setting would create scalding water in the bath. Or perhaps the tank knows better??
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Hot Water Baseboard Replies (thanks to all!)
Whoa, I didn't expect so many of you guys to answer so quickly ... I really appreciate it!
Let me try to sum up my answers to your many replies and queries:
1. I'm sure the furnace is sized fine. The replacement hotwater tank was installed by the same HVAC pro who designed and installed the entire system 10 years ago. The new tank simply replaced a worn-out same-sized model from the same company, SuperStor.
2. The baseboards are lukewarm in both zones, so I don't think it's a zone regulator problem.
3. The baseboard units are clean and dampers open. I took off all the covers and cleaned the fins this summer so I know they're clean (and yes they WERE dirty and dusty before).
4. Outside temps here have been mild (35-55) up until today so I think that's one reason why I wasn't missing serious heat until now. We had one brief cold spell before Christmas and I noticed the heat wasn't great then ... but things warmed up, until today which was in the teens.
5. Re questions about the setting the proper hotwater temp limit -- well, I guess that's what I've been trying to learn how to do.
Mounted on the side of the hotwater heater, there's a CONTROL box with an on/off toggle switch. Slide off the 3-sided cover, and there's a steel spur dial with temp numbers stamped in it. I'm assuming this is the Aquastat. This is the dial I turned recently to adjust the water temp for the bath from 120 to 135.
SO .... the big question ... do I simply increase this Aquastat dial setting up to 160 or 180, as several posts have recommended? If so, will this mean my shower/kitchen water will be at 180 ... a bit too hot??
I see no other such control mechanism on the tank, and the electric wire from this CONTROL box seems to run to the zone regulators on the main pipes that lead to the baseboard units.
I'm just wondering if the 180F setting would create scalding water in the bath. Or perhaps the tank knows better??
Thanks again for all the replies, you've been great ....
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Warm BB
What is the boiler water temp ?There's a gauge on the boiler somewhere.Raiseing the SS temp above 140* would be healthful to you and your's, Legionella Disease dies at temp's above 140*.What is the make/model of the aquastat?And an anti-scald device will have to be added.0 -
A bad visual
Why am I envisioning a basement apartment where the hot water tap comes off of a boiler drain? L0
This discussion has been closed.
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