DIverter tee system question

Unknown

sounds like a-lot of work to go-through though, you want to manually adjust the resistance on the main to accommodate this rad, if I get you correctly, ever thought if a higher head circ?, or maybe 2 Mono-Flo tees to get the job done? Perhaps splitting the circuit would help too. <BR><BR>Dave

Steve_144

DIverter tee system question

I'm about to redo my iron/steel diverter tee radiator system in copper (because the old system is starting to fall apart and leak - it's almost 60 years old). I've got all the new parts, but one problem I had with the old system is a baseboard radiator that a handyman added on afterwards - it never worked properly. After reading the article on diverter tee systems on this site, I know why - due to the configuration of the new radiator there was more resistance in the branch pipes than in the main pipe, even after the diverter tee was inserted.

So the article on here mentions that a baseboard radiator should be installed at the end of the main, rather than as a branch. However, the radiator is plumbed with 1/2" pipe and the main is 1", and I am concerned that the pressure drop caused by running the main through the new radiator will be too much and put too much resistance into the system. I am considering using tees for the baseboard, and inserting a gate valve between the supply and return tees, and then close the valve until enough water flows through the baseboard. Does this sound reasonable? Access to the baseboard plumbing is difficult, and options for removing resistance in the baseboard branch are limited.

Thanks,

Steve

pipefitter#51

I would go with the Mono Flow tees with a thermastatic radiator valve on the outlet side of the baseboard (TRV). This would give you automatic adjustment of the heat output for the room with out haveing to manualy adj. any valves. If you do go with valves, I don't see why you would put one on the inlet side unless you want to be able to isolate the baseboard, otherwise I would go with just one on the outlet side and use a globe or a ball valve, a gate should be either all the way open or closed and not used for throttling because of the flow by the bottom of the wedge.

Steve_144

Looks like I may not have been clear with my original posting. The valve would go on the main line between the supply and return tees, in order to increase resistance on the main and force water through the baseboard...

pipefitter#51

You could use a full port ball valve with a union on the down stream side, give it a try and if you don't get satisfactory results you can open the ball valve all the way and have no restriction.

Mellow_2

restriction on the main

the valve on the main will cause a restriction Just like adding the radiation to the end of the line..... Have you thought about moving the tees further apart......... I have caped the standard tee off and put a new tee back tward the boiler...... The psi drop should go up between the tees.do not cap a deverter tee, it will cause restriction...

Steve_144

Correct that the valve at the end will cause a restriction. however it would be less than running the entire circuit through the baseboard, since some water would still go through the valve.