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replacing rad valves

Boilerpro_5
Boilerpro_5 Member Posts: 407
I cut off the nut and then hammer in the next size under pipe nipple into the spud. This keeps the spud from collapsing when getting the pipe wrench on it. Then just get a wrench on the spud and after a couple of tries you'l have worn some flat spots on the spud. Then it can be turned right off.

Boilerpro

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Comments

  • chris pausz
    chris pausz Member Posts: 4
    replacing rad valves

    Anyone know where I can find info regarding replacing rad valves, techniques, tips. Also regarding replacement valves, do you all go up a size....put 1 1/4 valve on a 1" pipe due to todays smaller more restrictive valves. Much appreciated
  • Al Letellier_9
    Al Letellier_9 Member Posts: 929
    rad valves

    I've never had a problem with the size of a rad replacement valve. Whatever the riser size is what I install. You may have to change the spud also as not all valves are created equal.....
    Taking off the old valve can be tricky, especially on upper floors. You generally need two large pipe wrenches and something to protect the floor. Then it takes muscle power to break them free. I have a Ridgid compound action wrench that works very well if therei enough pipe exposed. For removing the spud, a spud wrench most often breaks off the little tabs and a sawsall and a good chisel are needed. A capeing chisel is best to protect the threads, if you can find one. It has a special cut to the chisel that keeps the sharp edges away from the threads. Having a pipe die handy is also a plus.
  • chris pausz
    chris pausz Member Posts: 4
    more questions

    thx for your input. Presently I replace valves as the maintenance guy and it always stresses me out. As of late I'm getting better at taking off these really old valves, including the spuds. My concerns are aligning new valves and where or what teflon paste to use. I use slictite as that is what I see the pro's using when they do a valve that I cannot do. A couple valve I replaced have leaking at the union. What is the secret to aligning this? I wonder if maybe I'm using cheap valves (matco-norca inc angle valve)One time I screwed the new valve on the pipe coming up through floor and it went too low to match up with the rad, so I had to reverse it a turn. Are new valves standard size? with these older valves. Also, can you put slictite anywhere in the union? I have no problem leaking from valve screwed on pipe or the spud in rad- just problems at the union (collar)Can you put slictite on the tapered pieces that join together. When will I know to stop tightening the collar? should a do a full turn after I hand tighten it? I'm afraid I will strip or break the brass. This is a one pipe steam system. Thanks for any tips.
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