I'm at wits end - steam & water heat

Steamhead (in transit)

you can just replace the seal, but I'd replace the entire bearing assembly.

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Gerry G

Two years ago, I ran a hot water heating zone off my steam boiler. It worked for about one month, until the Taco cartridge circulator got clogged by the rusty water from the old radiators.

I replaced the Taco with a B&G 100 bronze booster, and it's been working fine until yesterday, when it started leaking. At first I thought it was the main body gasket, but after replacing that, it's still leaking.

In looking around the site, it seems that B&G are temperamental with leaking problems.

Should I even attempt to replace the bearing assembly? I'm not keen on replacing a $500 pump every two years. If that's the case, I may as well put in a standalone hot water boiler and call it a day.

Big Ed_3

Sidearm

You can install a side arm heat exchanger and run a heating loop off of it, away from the gritty condensate ,,

What type boiler ? Could a coil be installed ?

Steamhead (in transit)

Where exactly

was the 100 leaking?

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Paul_11

WHY BRONZE PUMP

There maybe a reason to install a separate boiler, but not because of rust in you pump. You can certainly get this to work.

Iron pumps are fine for this heating loop. No sense wasting money on a bronze pump.

If the pumps really are failing because of the rust in the old radiators, can't you just clean the old radiators and be done with it. If you can't get the rust out, replace the radiators.

Usually hot water loops off of steam boilers are a new installation using new baseboard or new radiators.

Respectfully,

Paul B. Shay
pshay@arealgoodplumber.com
LMP 1307
LMFS 654B
OUR MISSION: TO PROVIDE WORLD CLASS PLUMBING, HEATING, AND SPRINKLER SERVICE TO EACH AND EVERY CLIENT WE SERVE, FAR EXCEEDING THEIR HIGHEST EXPECTATIONS!

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Brad White

Actually

I think bronze pumps are a good investment on below waterline systems because they tend to have (despite good intentions) more make-up water and more free O2 than normal closed systems. They are in essence open systems with a water-air interface not a foot away.

Still, one has to protect the circulator -whether iron or bronze- from grit, using a strainer or filter. If one isolated the hot water side with a heat exchanger, I would use bronze for the boiler side but iron would be fine on the hot water system side.

My $0.02

Brad

Gerry G

The 100 is leaking from the little opening on the bottom where the bearing bracket connects to the pump body. At first I thought it was the body gasket, but after replacing it it still leaks.

Gerry G

It's a Carrier BS-1 boiler (Dunkirk, I believe) -

http://xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/og-bs1a-03.pdf

I'll do a search here on installing a heat exchanger - then I can make do with a worry free Taco 007, right?

(edit - even if I put in the heat exchanger, won't I still have the issues of dirty condensate running from the boiler through the circulator?)

[Deleted User]

The 100 Standard

Bearing Assy (P/N 118844) now comes w/ a stainless separator plate. The 100 Bronze uses the same plate.

A strainer, w/ blow off valve, helps w/ crud in the water. Our standard pump for use on BWL Heaters, & heating zones off steam boilers, has a Viton Seal & bronze (not plastic) impeller.

Dave Stroman

I have done hot water zones off of a steam boiler numerous times with great success. A bronze pump is necessary. Replace the bearing assembly and try again. Did you oil it? If there is not enough crap in the water to jam the pump, then I do not think that is the issue.

Dave in Denver

Gerry G

I last oiled the three spots in November (at the start of the heating season).

Picking up a new bearing assembly on Saturday, along with a seal kit to always have a spare. Will also pop in a strainer before the pump intake (and before the mixing valve, as per instructions)

Probably will not put in a heat exchanger this go round. Cleaning the rads is a higher priority, as I'm getting a lot of hammering lately.

Thanks for all the feedback.