Do I add more Cryotek antifreeze

Don_186

I am nearing purchase of a home that is now completly winterized, no water in boiler, pipes or domestic. Current owner drained the Cryotek mixture into 55 gal drums. Prior to my purchase, the current owner will start everything back up, pumping all the mixture back into the boiler(s). The home has two induced draft wood boilers(one also burns oil) and one normal oil boiler all connected together serving about 10 zones (big house). Home also has radiant heat in the garages.

Owner wants me to purchase a new 55 gal drum of Cryotek so he can add that to the mixture during startup. But its expensive and is $$ I have to pay before closing.

I have a few thoughts, unsure how old the Cryotek is, maybe it should be replaced rather than just added to. Or if when its old its just a probem with the anti-corrosive additives and can I just add some more anti-corrosive additives.

May take apart the system in the spring to install ball valves to isolate each boiler, maybe better to do it then.

Is DOWFROST or DOWFROST HD better than Cryotek?

Efficiency with Cryotek or any antifreeze, this is a big house heated with wood so every loss of efficiency is more wood I have to cut and split.

I assume I need the antifreeze if I have radiant heat in the garage.

Home is in the NY Catskills.

Thanks for any advice.

Bob Forand

TEST IT

Test it with Cryotek test strips. The strips will tell !! At the very least add inhibitor..

Dr Pepper

Look it up....

it's made by Hercules Chemical http://www.herchem.com/ they have product information on their web site, info on the test kits and additives for the Cryo-tek. Test for percentage of glycol, to much is not better, it's not going to be -80 in NY.
Good luck

hr

test ph and

freeze protection. A digital ph meter and a refractometer would be the most accurate testers to use.

If the glycol was kept in a sealed container it should be fine to reuse.

Inhibitors can be boosted, but if the ph falls below 7 it would be wise to start with new fluid. I'd also clean the system first if you do use new fluid. The Rhomar products for cleaning are amound the best out there.

hot rod

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Don_186

Can the test stips tell if the gylcol is getting old and breaking down into carbon based by poducts?

Nick_26

antifreeze

Don,

I think the Glycol Express Tank would be relevant to your issue. Check this website: www.tekforceproducts.com

Nick

Drew_2

Antifreeze Testing

Don
If it helps, I can test the fluid for you. You'll need to send me about 4 oz. Call me if your interested.
800-678-6625, Ext. 108

Ken_40

Simply testing the

pH and freeze protection value is a crap shoot. Other compounds, like pipe dope residuals, soldering flux, naturally occuring "contaminates" like: rust, scale, calcium carbonate, salts, and a myriad of oxides will exist in all liklihood.

If it were my deal, I'd stipulate the heating system be restored to fully functional my any means the seller wants to pay for, demonstrating the integrity of the system for leaks and leaks alone b a 48 hour hydrostatic test, and upon assuming title, dumping the entire thing, flush it with TSP, drain and rinse and then put my own chemicals in, purely on an "as needed" basis. The fewer chemicals the better!

Given the weather in that area of NY state, the daffodils are coming up now, not frigid weather(;-0)

Drew_2

Testing

Ken
I stand corrected, I should have never offered my assistance.

Chris_82

KEN,...

The testing issue aside, you are so spot on about turning on systems and seeing them run, how many times a potential new buyer has been screewed by the seller. Remember the realestate agent works for the seller and has a vested intrest is not writing things down and/or glossing over things that would mess up a sale! The one good things about home inspections...you can sue the home inspector, which is a good reason to make sure your home inspectors insurace is paid at the time the inspection paperwork says it was inspected. They are not going to voluntarily honor a claim btw.