zoning retrofit - Pex, TRVs, new boiler and more...

JohnR

I have done a heat loss calc and came up with 87,000 Btu/H factoring in the poorest quality construction. My current boiler is 20 years old and rated at 187,000 Btu/H.
I have added insulation to the attic, replaced windows and have completed a good bit of my air sealing list.
My pipes are not in the walls so I can easily trace them and I am only considering replacing those in the crawl space which would allow me to zone the system. The attachment has my zoning thoughts. The stacked radiators share a common riser.

JohnR

zoning retrofit - Pex, TRVs, new boiler and more...

I am considering zoning my current heating system at the same time I upgrade my boiler. Currently I only have one zone. I am considering three. (1st floor, second and third floors, and an addition). My questions are:

My thoughts are to remove the original metal piping from the crawl space up to the tees that split the first floor from the second and third. The existing piping is larger diameter (4"). When I zone it I want to replace it with PEX. I will run the PEX to a central point and have the professional install the new boiler, zone valves and connect the system.

I am thinking that TRVs for the third floor will give me additional control and basically a zone for each room up there.

ANy feedback on this approach?

Weezbo

while it is better to do something and be mistaken ....

it might be better to take off on the "Good Foot" sort to speak.on an older system you need to do some things first before chopping the pipe out andspinning in another boiler.

Often it is best to identify each and every pipe and control. you sound like you have plenty of ambition:) so, a heat loss of the building is somewhere to start. there is a few free heat loss programmes available on the www one happens to be right here click on the free Slant -Fin heat loss programmme. have fun:)

the next is to make sure you CLEAN everything in the "Field" prior to getting the sawzall fired up

determining the emitters you have and the current placement is another good thing to do...there are some resources here for that also.

then ok.. is there some things that could be insulated to decrease the loss of BTU'sHr say a drop of insulation in the ceiling or around the perimeter..

sometimes you need to consider the pipe to the emitters...is it possible it was used to increase the comfort levels in your home?..chopping it out might not be a real swooft idea...

don't forget that zoning requires control devises and they need to speak clearly to the source:)

on large homes be careful that the pipe you think you had going somewhere actually does indeed go there:) that can be a biggie...piping in walls may reveal an entirely different story as there may have been a few changes in direction of some of the pipes you don't see.

well, have fun think about it a bit determine for yourself what is what and we will compare notes again in the future*~/:)

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Why not use TRVs throughout and save yourself the trouble of removing the old piping and replacing with new?

JohnR

I have considered that but am a little shy of the continuous circulation aspect of that set up. Perhaps this is unfounded.

Dave_4

Zones

Why the 3rd zone for the 3rd floor when they already will all have TRVs? Couldn't they do just fine off the 2nd floor zone?

On the first floor I'd think about a thematic valve for the kitchen if not a separate zone. Not saying any way is right or wrong of course...

Dave_4

Listen to Mike

One big TRV'd zone! Microzoning with macro control and makes for a very very simple system to control with major comfort.

Okay, so I'd say this would be the right way and ignore my last...

kevin coppinger_4

Ditto....

I just did it w/ a system last spring....Buderus 215, Logamatic 2107,BFU room sensor, TRV on the second floor....works great...saved a ton of repiping. Just insulate the mains in the basement. kpc

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JimH

What's the typical life of a circulator in a continuous run application like that?

-JimH

kevin coppinger_4

2 things....

1-put in isolationflanges
2- it should not be any less than normal...running is not what puts wear and tear on motors...its the starting and stopping....kpc

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Steve_35

We're doing the same thing right now.

Except it's a G115/21. Panel rads with TRVs throughout the house. PAP to all the panels except a couple in bonus rooms over the garage. I wasn't sure we could fish PAP through all the bends, joists, etc w/o kinking it somewhere. PEX for those rooms. We're replacing electric BB.

We've got about half of the panels in. What a difference. You can feel it just walking through the house working in different areas from day to day.

And we don't have the BFU connected yet.