W/M ultra bolt kit help

Steverino

Also do you remove a bolt then install a bolt, one at a time or take them all off at once and then install the bolts.
Thanks

Steverino

W/M ultra bolt kit help

I just received my replacement bolt kit from W/M and I have a couple of questions.

1. The instruction sheet provided says to remove the blower housing and gas valve assembly with the cover plate. It would seem a lot easier to disconnect (3 bolts) the cover plate from the blower housing then removing it. Any one try it this way?

2. My boiler is piped like the diagram on page 15 of the manual. Can someone explain the proper way to fill the boiler once the new bolts are installed?

Thanks
John

LEAD PIPE

I went ahead and changed the bolts. The only problem I had was one of the bolts they sent had bad thread and I had to reuse one of the old ones. I'm sure it will be leaking in a few months. If you do need a kit I would recommend ordering 2 or asking for a couple extra bolts. I did get some air into the zones, no big deal. After reading the other thread about the leaking heat exchanger I checked that area and didn't see or feel any corrosion at all. This is the boilers 3rd season. There is no SS lining in that area as some have mentioned. I took a couple of photos; the last one is the area inside the heat exchanger that leaked in the other boiler.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/LEADPIPE/DSCN0727.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/LEADPIPE/DSCN0729.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/LEADPIPE/DSCN0730.jpg

Ted_5

Why?

> I went ahead and changed the bolts. The only

> problem I had was one of the bolts they sent had

> bad thread and I had to reuse one of the old

> ones. I'm sure it will be leaking in a few

> months. If you do need a kit I would recommend

> ordering 2 or asking for a couple extra bolts. I

> did get some air into the zones, no big deal.

> After reading the other thread about the leaking

> heat exchanger I checked that area and didn't see

> or feel any corrosion at all. This is the boilers

> 3rd season. There is no SS lining in that area as

> some have mentioned. I took a couple of photos;

> the last one is the area inside the heat

> exchanger that leaked in the other

> boiler.

>

> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/

> LEADPIPE/DSCN0727.jpg

>

> http://img.photobucket.co

> m/albums/v684/LEADPIPE/DSCN0729.jpg

>

> http://img.

> photobucket.com/albums/v684/LEADPIPE/DSCN0730.jpg



> I went ahead and changed the bolts. The only

> problem I had was one of the bolts they sent had

> bad thread and I had to reuse one of the old

> ones. I'm sure it will be leaking in a few

> months. If you do need a kit I would recommend

> ordering 2 or asking for a couple extra bolts. I

> did get some air into the zones, no big deal.

> After reading the other thread about the leaking

> heat exchanger I checked that area and didn't see

> or feel any corrosion at all. This is the boilers

> 3rd season. There is no SS lining in that area as

> some have mentioned. I took a couple of photos;

> the last one is the area inside the heat

> exchanger that leaked in the other

> boiler.

>

> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/

> LEADPIPE/DSCN0727.jpg

>

> http://img.photobucket.co

> m/albums/v684/LEADPIPE/DSCN0729.jpg

>

> http://img.

> photobucket.com/albums/v684/LEADPIPE/DSCN0730.jpg



Why did you have to change bolts?

Ted_5

Why?

Why do you have to change the bolts? It will leak again?

Ted

brucewo1b

Weil McLain

had an issue on units that were overrsized for the heat load that whould work more on off than modulate and the constant on off would crack the nuts. The nuts have been redisigned to better handle the stresses of on off operation, this was not a problem in units that were close to design load.

Steverino

I decreased the max fan speed down to 3800 rpms and increased the boost time to 30 min. I'm hoping this will solve the over size issue. I went a little big because I want to add 2 more zones in the future, my basement, which is plumbed already and my garage.