Boiler protection? Ted G

Unknown

Actually, purging those older headers was quite simple. It involves loosening those Blue caps or closing the internal circuit valves on the return header. Hook up a hose to the purge station on the end of the return hader and opening the circuits one at a time by tightening the cap on the respective circuit valve. If the return header were equipped with power heads or telestats, it would involve removing them and putting the manual (Blue) caps back on to purge each circuit. If the caps were discarded, then it would certainly be more difficult. Based on the compression fitting leakage, I would venture to guess that the boiler has probably suffered more harm from fresh makeup water than from thermal issues though. Hope this helps.

Glenn Stanton

Manager of Training

Burnham Hydronics

U.S. Boiler Co., Inc.

Ted_9

radiant

I cant find any boiler protection. Can you guys help?

I'm going there tomorrow to check it out.

Also, the radiant supply temp says 90 degrees. the boiler is hot, thats what I was told.

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clammy

3 way valve

Looks like they used one of the existing zones and just threw a 3 way valve with a set point controller i also don't see any retrun sensor either ,maybe the guy who did put the radiant in didn't known any better ?I would check the boiler return temp with jusdt the radiant going if she 's coming back to cold maybe it's time to up date the 3 way valve and use one that gives you boiler return protection or maybe pipe in a by pass with a thermostatic mixing valve on the reurn set to 160 and mix some supply water back into the return to raise the temp ,it really depends weather the HO is willing to spend the coin ,Best case sceinco maybe remove that 3 way and the set point controller installa nice taco RMB and your set strap her up by the boiler and your set just a though ,nice looking basement from the looks of the framing looks like she's seen alot of changes .I do like those purge valves below the zone valves are those webstonesitems .Peace and good lucl ted clammy

[Deleted User]

That's because...

there AIN'T none. THat appears to be a Stadler Viega system,pre Viega. I have yet to figure out how they're supposed to be purged. I suspect that the GoldLine control is being used as a set point controller and is operating the operator on the 3 way valve.

This system offers ZERO boiler protection. From the appearance of the photos, the boiler IS running hot because the insulation is melting off of the pipes.

Stadler is an Uponor division. They might be able to give you some guidance. My gut tells me to rip it out and start from scratch, but I just can't imagine the Germans having something so pretty, yet so difficult to purge.

I've even looked at their O&M manual, and it doesn't make it any easier. Someone here is a Stadlerite. Maybe they'll drop in and tell us how its done.

ME

[Deleted User]

Glenn

Glad to see you out and about. My spate of bad luck probably has to do with the fact that I was dealing with one of the older systems that had non electric outdoor reset, and was dealing with small bore tubing which is a PITA to purge in and of itself. The probelm was getting enough pressure and velocity to perform a complete purge. Eventually ended up pulling all non electrics off and backwards force purging it. A real PITA in my book...

I usually have a pretty good grasp of things mechanicaland hydraulic, but THIS system threw me for a loop.

ME

Ted_9

update

So I checked it out on Sat. No boiler protection. GoldLine set point control. I looked at the old Stadler manuals and it looks like its piped acording to that. there is a sensing buld that goes out side. The 3way has a two position acuator(Oventrop).

Someone connected to the old baseboard supply, then connected the return with a tee were the boiler drain goes. Nice to have 70 degree water feeding into the bottom of the boiler.

No sensors and I found that they put a hi/low limit aquastat . Settings were 180 hi 160 low.


I was thinking of just ripping out the set point control and adding a Tekmar 360 with a new 3way(not sure it functions) and 3 position acuator. I'll also repipe the boiler slightly, pri/sec.

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Unknown

Ahhh!

The older 10mm tubing used to feed basebaord and radiators with non-electric valves. Yes....that is a PITA to purge and basicly makes the fast fill lever useless unless you want to keep popping the relief valve! I feel your pain.


Glenn Stanton

Manager of Training

Burnham Hydronics

U.S. Boiler Co., Inc.

hr

Not all systems need return protection

Is this a HW baseboard job with just one or two radiant loops?

If so, and the radiant is a small % of the boiler capacity, return protection may not be an issue. The number I have heard is 1/4 or less of that total load in radiant, protection should not be needed.

Hardly ever a need for return protection on baseboard systems.

That green ooze sure look like glycol, or a former glycol residue?

Or the fill water ph could be going after the copper? i'd check the ph in either case.

hot rod

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Ted_9

Existing: No reset, bb., and 6 loops of radiant, rather large area.

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