Munchkin F15 fault code

clammy

According to the vision one supplement F15 code is air switch is stuck closed did you ohm the switch to see if would open plus the unit may not come if the air switch is made before the blower fan starts it would be out of sequence .Have you gone through testing the fan in accordance to htp instructions . .The switch may have a bad diapharm and not stay in when the blower is started or runs a few minutes . i would also chk the as staed in the supplement guide to check the adapter at the fan was drilled out also check the condition of the air switch hose .There must be alot of moisture or recirculated combustion gases in the combustion air to cause corrision most likely the second good luck and peace clammy

bobbyg_2

I have a customer who installed (2) 199M boilers that have been installed for a little over 2-years.

On one of these boilers, the blower had to be replaced. (the blower vanes fell apart). After replacing the blower everything worked fine for about 3 months, then a F15 fault code. It has progressively gotten worse over the last 3-weeks and now it won't run 10 minutes without this code.

I called Munchkin tech support on my way to the jobsite around 9 am 1/16/06.

For troubleshooting purposes, we pulled the hose and detected pretty good air movement. We pulled the air pressure switch and could easily pull in the contact.

We tried to adjust the pressure switch (ended up backing it all the way out-to no avail)

So we hit the reset button and the display showed E15 (temp. fault code) and then we even jumped the switch.

Even with the switch jumped it went out on F15. ???? We checked the wire connections and opened the control module. We noticed corrosion on the "slow Blow" fuse so we changed it. Worked OK for around 1/2 hour so we left. Homeowner called my contractor customer and said F15 locked out again......

The corrosion was a greenish buildup on the connector rings of the fuse. We also noticed a rust buildup on the gas pipe going to the gas valve. I didn't detect any other indication of moisture. It's in a semi-finished basement (dry). I noticed the vent termination was in a windy location and the two are really close, so he went back later yesterday (1/16/06) and put extensions on the exhaust (it is the concentric vent kit).

Anyone run into anything like this?

While I was there, I called HTP Tech Support and left another message approx. 2-3 pm .

On another note: when leaving a message with HTP Tech Support, should I tell them I am "vision certified" to get a faster response? I know they are extremely busy, but I still haven't gotten a response. 12:00 noon EST. (27 hrs. after first phone call)

bobbyg_2

didn't have a volt meter with me. The blower switch starts out open and then makes when the blower comes on. When we jumped it, we left it open until the blower came on, then we jumped the switch....Still went out on F15. I believe the switch is working but the board isn't reacting to the switch???

The recirculation was an issue...whether or not it affected this F15 I'm not sure. I'm confident the possible recirculation is corrected now.

thanks for your help Clammy. Peace be with you...

hr

Did you try

your dealer or local rep. Many of them have a lot of hands on troubleshooting experience also. I involve all the players and add up all the tips and suggestions. You never know which will pay out :)e

Although you will need the proper tools to get the right answers Meters, analyzer and laptop are almost always required to get all the data to troubleshoot.



I always check the drain and condensate piping, a little retained water in the boiler builds steam and fools with the flame rectification.

It's always wise to check all the "hot buttons" regardless of the error call.

Did you connect your laptop to 'er? Some good fault code history info can be garned there.

hot rod

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J.C.A._3

Bobbyg

I believe there is an updated board available that does away with the draft proving switch all together. I know I've changed out a couple of smaller units with them, and no more problems. Good luck. Chris

bobbyg_2

I should have told you up front. I am the supplier, my customer is the contractor. I am in a geographically isolated area here in the southern end of Indiana. My rep is located in Ohio (always complains about how long it takes to get here. when he comes twice a year). I have always tried to be as knowledgeable as I can with the Munchkins. I have been to the factory and am "Vision" certified. I had a training session here in Evansville IN last March where about 30 contractors became "Vision Certified".


With this problem, I believe I have narrowed the issue down a bit. When we hit the reset button and the E15 (temp code flashes) we jumped the pressure switch. It still goes out on F15.

Since, the control becomes suspicious. The contractor took a board out of one of the new boilers he has at his shop and put it in. With this new board he gets a "flu" error code.

I didn't take my laptop and I was there only because I was sizing a boiler for a school. The contractor happened to get a call from the homeowner while I was there. The job is about 1-1/2 hrs. away from my office. I will go back when I can get a little more input from the factory and awesome wet heads such as yourself.

I haven't gotten a response from HTP since Monday 9AM voice-mail. Should I leave a third voice mail?

Chuck Shaw_2

Bob, the reason you did not get a

call back, is you did not leave us a phone number. I pulled the message off the phone system myself. I have the notes, that say F15, 2 yrs old, at 221pm. It also in big letters "no phone left".

If you twist the two wires going to the air pressure switch, the "flu" will disaper. This is for a blocked flu switch, that is now installed on new boilers. This switch is normally closed, and will open, with back pressure from the flu.

Chuck Shaw
Tech Support
Heat Transfer Products.

bobbyg_2

Hi Chuck Shaw,
I left a phone # on the 9am voice mail and the 2pm voice mail. Albeit the 2pm call maybe was on a static mobile phone call. Did you see the 9am call?

I sent a "vision certified" support request just before I received this reply so please purge this from your many requests for help. Sorry.

Chuck, are you saying to disregard the pressure switch and replace the board with a newer one and twist the wires together?

thanks for your help.

Chuck Shaw_2

I did not get the 9am call

but, there was no phone number with the second call. We removed (electronicly) the normally open air pressure switch, and had nothing there for a while, we then replaced it with a normally closed blocked flu switch when he removed the circuit board, from the new boiler, it had this flu switch programmed into it. The air pressure switch is normally open, the flu switch is normally closed.

Chuck

bobbyg_2

Thanks for your help. I will put in a new board and jump the pressure switch wires.

Chuck, you are the man.....

Have a good one!