Don't know where to ask, well pump?

Steve Ebels_3

It's a lot easier on the motor and the pump itself if it runs continuously rather than cycling on/off such as when sprinkling your yard. Probably helps keep the screen clean too.

Submersible pumps are rated for xx gpm at a given depth and PSI discharge pressure. If you stay the same depth and pressure, a higher HP motor will have a higher GPM delivery. This is because the manufacturer is able to size the impellers diferently or add more impellers (stages) given the higher HP available.

Joe.G

Well pump ? sta rite vs red jacket?

Hi, my red jacket 1/2 hp 7 gpm went bad I had it installed in 97, Thjey replaced it with a sta rite 1/2 hp 7 gpm pump, which of these is the better pump? They charged me $761 for the pump, I forgot what the red jacket cost. How long should they last? my well is about 100 FT. How far from the bottom should they sit? when they installed it they raised it about afoot from where it was. thanks

mr ed

WELL PUMP

Hi Joe,
I'm not familiar with those brands but I sell a 1/2 hp 220v Goulds for between 300-400 average price depending on specific models. The stainless steel models will run a hundred or two hgigher again depending on the model. We typically run them 5' from the bottom of the well though every situation has the potential for variance. Pump life is something that can vary greatly depending on usage, water condition etc. Could be anywhere from 3-5 years or 15-20 but generally I would say 10 - 15 years. Hope this helped some. - Ed

jeff_51

both of those pumps are decent

but are not top of the line pumps. I used to put in redjackets when I was still doing them. Certainly nothing wrong with either brand in my opinion. Goulds or Meyers are usually (or used to be) considered better in the quality dept, but then I don't dive a Mercedes either. Depending on how much water is in the well, I liked to keep them about five feet off the bottom, Eight years does seem pretty short for that pump. 1/2 hp at 100ft is certainly not undersized. You are not by chance using it for other than just domestic houshold water, are you? If you are, or doing alot of lawn sprinkling, you may want to upgrade to 3/4hp

Joe.G

It did run for about 8 hours straight when the check vavle went bad, I use it for everything around the houes ( not for pools or anything like that for that kind of stuff I use my spring) what would a3/4 hp do that the 1/2 won't? thanks

Steve Ebels_3

I just replaced mine

It was a 1HP 19gpm Flint & Walling that my dad installed here in 1968. Actually the pump still ran fine but the screen was plugging up and the vein of water it was in is contaminated with "fertilizer" nitrate runoff from the local farms.

The new pump was a Flint&Walling 1 1/2HP 27GPM. It'll run 4 #40 Rainbird sprinklers at 48PSI delivering 24GPM. I like to keep the lawn green

jeff_51

that shouldn't have hurt it

thats done all the time to clean out new wells.
get the red jacket stailess steel or Goulds and get the lighting protection, most houses are grounded to the casing

Joe.G

so thep i got is not a good one? for $761 i hope it will hold up. The red jacket was lighting protectedf, i am unsure if this one is. I know that they looked the same.

Bob Sweet

JOE

Like others have said STA-RITE is not the Cadillac but it's a pump widely used. $761.00 is it to much?? imho may be high but not out of the question. The check valve?? are you sure it isn't the reason the first pump went out?? Did you find a lot of silt build up in the check valve?? 3/4 hp motor will deliver more gpm, head performance. One more question, it's been my experience that saturated expansion tanks and bad check valves can show somewhat similar sign's of being bad (frequent on/off cycles of pump)has the expansion tank been checked? On/off cycles on a pump will kill it quick.

archibald tuttle

hope it will hold up

I generally experience paying $350 to $450 for a stainless steel 3/4 horse pump, but that is at the supplier. If this was your installed cost, I would say fair.

My house has been running on a grundfos (it is stainless, I think that is all they make) for about a decade without any problems. I went through a Dayton (or whatever Graingers was selling) and a Craftsmen in relatively short order before that but I know these pumps were lost to lightening so I'm not sure you can blame it on the pumps.

I installed a physical 240 v. twist lock plug in my well tile and I would just physically unplug the pump when a thunderstorm was moving in as none of the 'protection' systems ever seemed to really protect a pump 50 feet down in water from being the best ground around when a line was struck nearby.

Both of the pumps I lost had 'lightening protection' and I have a lightening arrestor at the box but none of these is good enough for a close hit. For a while our house seemed to be right in the path of every thunderstorm that ever went by here but thank god that has slacked off lately.

Brian

Joe.G

My pressure tank was low on air whenI checked the pressure when teh check vavle went bad, it had like 10 or 12 lbs of pressure, empty so i set it at 28 and I checked it 3 monthes later and it was still there. the check vavle by the pressure tank went bad, my pump would kick on and fill the tank and then kick off, the tank would then drain fast I could hear it and then it would start all over again. I pull the check valve or one way vavle what ever it is call and the rubber inside was worn out. I know the motor has abuilt in one but I put one by the pump and by the pressure tank also.

Bob Sweet

JOE sounds like you have the problem solved

the fact that you heard water going somewhere when the pump shut off would say that it's probably a check valve. Make sure to monitor the expansion tank. Joe I'm guessing the reason your setting the exp. tank to 28 psi is because the pressure switch is preset to 30/50, the press. switch's are not alway's exact and the 2 psi differential between the pump and exp. tank should be set appropriatley, have a qualified tech verify this for you.

Joe.G

Well the pump stopped working,i had no water at my house. And then i would get water for a little bit and then i would run out I replaced the pump and now i don't run out.

Yes i do have a 30-50 switch i think it kicks on at a little more then 30 and off a little higher then 50, everything i read on the net says to set it 2 lbs less then the kick on pressure so that is what i did guessing maybe my gauge was off.The inst that came with my well mate tank says for a 30-50 to set it 4 lbs less? how exact do i have to be here? a lbs or2 matters a lot? my switch or gauge could be off a little so could my air pressure gauge.

bob_34

2 psi is too close. the pump switch contacts sit on a rocker and with water surging from the well to the house if you are as close as 2 psi you may get moments of no water as a result. lasts a few seconds but very annoying and mysterious when it happens. i always leave the tank pr echarge at 5 psi below the pump switch cut in stting because of this.

Joe.G

My gauge said it kicks on at 33 psi and off at about 53 psi, so maybe I will set the pressure tank to 28 psi, ( I changed it to 30 the other day) any other thoughts on this? and are there any websites besides here for stufflike this around the house? thanks

Joe.G

How important is the pressure?

bob_34

33-53 is just about perfect. 40 -60 would be better still.

Joe.G

Iam talking about the pressure in the tank air wise.what happens if there is to much or not enough?