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        <title>Heating Help: The Wall</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 20:19:49 +0000</pubDate>
        <language>en</language>
            <description>Heating Help: The Wall</description>
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    <item>
        <title>Old Bryant steam boiler, and duty cycle</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178437/old-bryant-steam-boiler-and-duty-cycle</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 03:16:27 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>Precaud</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178437@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[First let me say thanks to the contributors on this website, which has come in very handy the last few days as I troubleshooted and repaired this old boiler. Many a google search landed me here. I have numerous questions but we'll start with these two.

1. Is there a way to find out the age of this wonderful old Bryant nat gas steam boiler? Here is a pic of the ID tag. The unit no. is 7S225 D296 3486. 157,500 btu input, 126,000 btu output. No deratings given for high altitude (the house is at 7,000 feet in north central New Mexico). The only date codes I can find are on the Honeywell Pressuretrol, which says 1974. (That may or may not be the same date as the boiler, though.)

<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/39/ex2nemxjfz51.jpg" alt="" />

2. This heater came with the house when I bought it in 1990, and was the sole heat source until 2006, when it starting acting up. A local heating specialist inspected it and said "it's old, replace it". I believed him, shut it down, and used that opportunity to build and install two large passive solar heaters, with woodstove backup. The solar/wood system has worked remarkably well, but it is not automated and has to be attended to every day. I'm getting on in years and decided the woodstoves are too much hassle now, and it's time to revive the steam boiler to cover the evenings and for backup duty. Two days of troubleshooting, repair, and adjustment and the Bryant is up and running great again.

So my question has to do with duty cycle. On a "cloudy day", the Bryant will cover 100% of the heating load (which it was desgned to do) and it does so comfortably. On "sunny days", it will start at 5-6am, and operate until 9am when the solar heaters take over, until 4pm or so. Then the boiler takes over again from 6-6:30pm until bedtime, when the tstat is turned down for sleeping. 

So in the "sunny day" regime, the boiler has two 3-4 hour stints on with 8 hours off in between. I hunch that this is not an ideal way to operate this beast. Will there be predictable consequences for doing so?]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Service company recommendations in Pennsylvania</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178455/service-company-recommendations-in-pennsylvania</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 18:39:35 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>at6869</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178455@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello! I am looking for recommendations for a service tech/company in Central/Northeastern Pennsylvania. I'm located between Williamsport, PA and Wilkes-Barre, PA. The closest I found using the contractor search was one in Lititz, but they don't service my area. 

I have a 1985 Peerless natural gas steam boiler in a home built in the 1850s. There are 10 single pipe radiators hooked up to it. We moved into the house in spring of 2018 and had a local company do yearly cleanings, but I'm concerned that they're not super familiar with the quirks of steam systems. It heats well and quickly, but when it is refires after the first cycle, it is making a loud low humming noise through one of main the pipes that go to one side of the house. It almost sounds like a big low boat horn. I can feel the pipe vibrating when I put my hand on it, it's not like a violent rattle, just enough to cause a low, sometimes loud hum. 

This is my first house, first time with steam, and I'm pretty sure the previous owners didn't know much either -- they only lived there for 2 years before selling. They weren't in love with the quirks of a historic home, so I'm concerned that it wasn't really looked after. I've learned a few things, but not enough to know if a service company is any good or not. I'd love to get an expert out to check the system out and also to teach me what sort of things to look out for, and what things I can do myself.

Any suggestions? Thanks!!!!]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>How some pros  install and professionals accept</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178456/how-some-pros-install-and-professionals-accept</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 19:29:23 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>Henry</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178456@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I was asked to check on the two boilers and 3 storage tank installation at a new student residence. This was an engineered job. The engineer said the install was correct. There was two 500,000 BTU boilers connected together on 1 1/2 pipe as well as the three tanks. Failure 1, pipe sizing to small for 100 GPM. Failure 2, the small Taco pumps could pump 20 GPM if there was no boiler restriction. Plumber redid the piping and installed the correct model Grundfos pumps. Failure 3, look how the pumps were installed. One already was making noise.

<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/0n/xeqgt0x9tx7y.jpg" alt="" />
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>US Boiler K2FT-110 making loud humming noise</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178341/us-boiler-k2ft-110-making-loud-humming-noise</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 21 Dec 2019 21:30:37 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Radiant Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>Joe_5</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178341@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Installed this direct vent condensing boiler last year for a friend and it ran perfectly and super quiet all last winter.  Job is all radiant in slab.  A few weeks ago he started hearing a loud humming noise when running with an occasional ignition lock out.  Humming noise starts as soon as burner ignites and I can quiet it by slightly restricting inlet pipe with my hand until it smooths out.  Gas inlet pressure OK, used combustion analyzer and adjusted both high and low fire per manual but noise is still happening.  I feel like when I talk to rep on Monday they will tell exactly what is wrong but I can't wait.  Any ideas???  Joe     ]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Requesting some historical expertise please</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178443/requesting-some-historical-expertise-please</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 22:22:05 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>stratus5b</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178443@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Greetings,

I am new here and I hope that I am not violating norms or offending any site members.  I am a newly retired Facility Maintenance professional who is a writer in my second life.   I was directed to your site by the person that I depended on for the  health and wellfare of all of my HVAC R&amp;M for the past 20 years.   

 I am writing something that includes information on the boiler in the elementary school I attended. The building was constructed in 1924 and the boiler that was in use in the '50's (when I attended) is still in use.  I have attached some photos that I hope will be helpful.  

What I am hoping for is general info on the history of the boiler, its general quality and any personal vignettes you would be willing to share.  The audience is rather small ~300 people and not a commercial venture.  

Thanks for your consideration and any comments are appreciated.

Jon (stratus5b)<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/0n/nlaijs1igeb1.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/1m/eacip59j3dnf.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/74/4f0ob5zgest8.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/nu/bvcw1qh6sk6k.jpg" alt="" />
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>help me size a softener .. industry standards seem off??</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178448/help-me-size-a-softener-industry-standards-seem-off</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 04:14:01 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Water Quality</category>
        <dc:creator>fiddlermd</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178448@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I live in northern NJ and water is hard. Not horrible bit definitely noticeable. I bought test strips and while those aren'ts super precise, the color most closely resembles about 7-10 grains. I'm on well water and don't know the iron content at this point but it's not noticeable in the house - no red rings anywhere.
In any case, I read a bunch of things online on sizing and all of them give you 75 gallons per day per person as a benchmark. I have 5 people in the house and we do more than a fair share of running the dishwashwer, washing machine, long showers etc. However, I averaged the water use for the last year based on water meter readings and it works out to about 200 gallons per day.. that's way lower than the "industry average".. so i'm wondering if I'm wrong somewhere or if my count might be off somehow.

If it IS 200 per day, what would be a good option for softening?

Also, I personally don't like the 'slimy' feeling of ultra-soft water. is there a way to control how soft it is? meaning, is that something a softener can do, or do they just extract as much mineral content as is available? does anyone use mixing valves to control the level of "softness" or anything like that?

thanks!]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Just serviced oil boiler now sounds loud and rough</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178451/just-serviced-oil-boiler-now-sounds-loud-and-rough</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 14:20:40 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Oil Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>lindera</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178451@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[We just had our oil boiler serviced and it sounds louder and rougher when running.  It also seems to smell more.  I will call the contractor but was curious to hear opinions on what may have caused this.  Thanks!]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>New House: Humming/Heartbeat and more</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/177989/new-house-humming-heartbeat-and-more</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 02 Dec 2019 23:00:08 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>matt101589</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">177989@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello all!

So I'm at a new house which has been poorly maintained including the steam heat systems (. I got the boilers flushed and they seem to be in decent shape. Two bigger main vents were put in for one boiler and they suggested the other boiler to have a bigger main vent put in as well. One of the long returns pipes was sagging so they recommended the pitch be increased and we may have the entire pipe replaced. I hope all that sounds pretty good. 

Now I have a couple of issues:

1. It seems that one side of the house has the heat completely shutoff (the first and third-floor radiators have the shutoff valve completely open (even when the air valve on the first floor is removed, no air is coming through). The second floor is closed and the radiator is not connected). Is this something anyone has encountered before? I'm very confused by this and don't know what to think (maybe the pipes on that side have issues?).

2. Whenever I'm in the first-floor unit and the second-floor unit's heat is on, I hear a low-frequency humming/heartbeat. I contacted the gas company and they said it wasn't the gas line. So I have no clue what this could be. Could it be related to a capped pipe on the third floor?

3. The gas person said the boiler was a pretty big boiler (140k BTU/HR) for what seemed to be planned 9 radiators (7 on the second floor and 2 on the third floor) (currently 1 pipe on the third floor is capped, the other third floor has no air coming, one on the second floor is disconnected from the radiator). What is the best way to deal with an oversize boiler?

I'm overwhelmed by all this and would appreciate any help you may have! Thank you in advanced!]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Primary secondary piping.</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/169683/primary-secondary-piping</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 03 Mar 2019 13:44:42 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>cubbydog</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">169683@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I’m trying to find out if I need flow check on the secondary circ in a primary secondary system?
 Does anyone have any diagrams showing circuit piping including boiler in the primary and them secondary feeding all the zones?  I would like to see a complete diagram, they seem to be  elusive on the internet and in Dan’s books.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Confused on dripping pressure relief valve on water boiler</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178447/confused-on-dripping-pressure-relief-valve-on-water-boiler</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 01:15:12 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>Snowmelt</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178447@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Today my uncle calls me and says his pressure relief valve on his boiler was dripping water. ( he told me Saturday at diner).  I said no problem go to the supply house and get an expansion tank and another pressure relief valve.  We changed them and the pressure relieve valve.  Still wasn’t working.  We installed a 40 psi relieve valve and it dripped before reaching 160 degrees.  Make a long story short we changed the air separator and it worked.  There was no clog between between expansion tank and air separator.does anyone have a theory on what it could be? 
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>New HeatTimer VariValve vent leaking</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178454/new-heattimer-varivalve-vent-leaking</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 17:38:25 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>DefinitelyNotAWizard</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178454@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I just replaced some old hissing vents with HeatTimer VariValve vents. The new vents are leaking a very small amount - about one to two droplets of water per cycle (so little most of them are not even dripping). I used Teflon tape and ensured it is going in the proper direction. Is there a better sealant I should be using or something I’m overlooking? The old vents did not leak at all.
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/dj/6w3zif3v19py.jpeg" alt="" />
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Furnace/Central Air what brands to consider &amp; avoid</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178453/furnace-central-air-what-brands-to-consider-avoid</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 16:28:22 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>A-C, Heat Pumps &amp; Refrigeration</category>
        <dc:creator>SlamDunk</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178453@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I have a second home with a Ruud hvac system that has reached or passed the 25 year mark and I am interested in replacing it ,more as a precaution than a necessity, and wanted to see what brands to consider and which ones to avoid.  It is in a rural area so I will have to cast a net pretty far for contractors and I have no idea what brands they will offer.   I would happily go for another Ruud if it is quoted but is today's Ruud as good as the one I have?  Thanks for your help.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Passive Solar House gain at the Winter Solstice</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178433/passive-solar-house-gain-at-the-winter-solstice</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 29 Dec 2019 20:05:24 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>JUGHNE</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178433@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[In the early 90's we started our house.  We tried to align it on the north-south axis for max solar gain.
The sun room shows the max penetration of sunlight on Dec 22, solstice this year.
We are in the CST zone about 80 miles from MST.  So true noon is 12:35.<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/za/u75pqyixf87p.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/fd/ozjr9ajd4e23.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/ic/rfx4dg5my2p2.jpg" alt="" />
]]>
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    <item>
        <title>Boiler settings and optimization</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178129/boiler-settings-and-optimization</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 09 Dec 2019 19:58:41 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Oil Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>TC83</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178129@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello all, 
New member here and want to start off by saying this website is phenomenal. You are all such an asset to anyone willing to just try and understand their system before wrenching away. 

Now, onto the entree;
I have a small 100 year old four story 12 unit property, two adjacent buildings with one ~20 year old boiler (read as long steam main runs to risers).
As of a year ago, we have upgraded to the entech boiler control, with space temp sensors and a bunch of sensors for flue temp, dhw(aqua/coil/mix temps), return, pressure and outdoor readings.
As of now the system typically takes approx. 20-30 minutes to build 1PSI, then continues to do so as normal, up to its current settings which cut out at 5-6PSI and then restarts if target temp is not achieved.  I'd like to try and optimize my settings and operation but before doing so want to ensure i fully understand what to do and what to expect from its operation. Some background, i have begun insulating the horizontal main runs with fiberglass wrap, they are approx. 40ft long x 2.5" pipe, risers are 2" pipe buried in walls and in some places exposed within apartments. The boiler also provides dhw with two 10gpm tankless coils through a 1.25" watts n170-m3 mixing valve. 
I have changed out the two old and leaky hoffman 75 main line vents with Barnes &amp; Jones Big Mouth Vents and the risers at the top most point have a drilled and tapped hole with a #D 1/8" Angle Air Valve (four risers, each with #D vent).

So, my question is the following, What does it seem like i can do to get heat faster or more economically. Is there anything that can be done for dhw - perhaps this mixing valve is not properly sized or is dhw with steam boilers just a picky issue in general. Alternatively, if this is good enough of a setup it would also be ok with me. The boiler room naturally is a small basement space with beautifully narrow halls and access. Also, if posted in the wrong category, i do apologize. I've spent a couple days searching and have been trying to piece together more info.
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/i9/d1oad4ca8zza.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/l0/rimoe1i648py.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/kl/ld18bbrmj4qu.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/g3/1n3p8w0ska8b.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/3m/qa1ajutu8bvw.jpg" alt="" />
]]>
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    <item>
        <title>boiler automatic feeder interrupter switch</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178444/boiler-automatic-feeder-interrupter-switch</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 23:02:24 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>SteamingatMohawk</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178444@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I just came across a web site recommending that in certain circumstances an automatic feeder can flood a boiler and the company recommends installing an interrupter in series with the feeder wiring.  While such a failure seems unlikely, it's a situation to think about.  Does anyone have any knowledge/history with this situation.  If you want to read about it, search on "peril of automatic water feeder".]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Radiator cracking</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/150351/radiator-cracking</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2014 08:38:36 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>heatpro02920</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">150351@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I am pulling out my hair with this service call....<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Last year I replaced a cracked radiator with a used similar radiator no exact but close...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I changed the boiler about 3 years ago, its a well maintained system...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The new radiator cracked about a month later, so it was used but I checked everything to be sure it wasnt an issue with the system....  We replaced the radiator..<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now its cracked again!!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
What is going on?  1 radiator in the same spot cracking 3 times, what should I be checking?  the pressures are perfect, pipes are installed correctly and pitched, vent is new and working, what am I missing?  What should I look for, I am going to install another radiator next week for free, but I can not keep doing this...  I have only seen a few actually cracked radiators and now to see 3 in one spot is out of the norm to say the least...]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>confused on steam pressure</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178430/confused-on-steam-pressure</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 29 Dec 2019 17:31:40 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>Snowmelt</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178430@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I am confused on a statement that my local supply house gave me.  the supply house told me if I don't make pressure that means the boiler is too small.  
I would agree with the local supply house if the thermostat doesn't make temperature.  
before we go any further this is the boiler that I am missing between 15 and 20 gallons a day.  which is a lot better then the 600 gallons a day it used to use before I replaced it. ]]>
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    <item>
        <title>Munchkin, Blown Fuse on Circuit Board</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178446/munchkin-blown-fuse-on-circuit-board</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 00:27:17 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>Alan (California Radiant) Forbes</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178446@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Plenty of Munchkins in my area, but I've never had to service one with a blown fuse on the circuit board.  This boiler is a 140M, made in 2002 and had a new circuit board installed 2-3 years ago.  There's probably plenty of of things that could short out; gas valve, blower motor.....Can I ohm these components out to see if they are good or bad?  

The owner had called me a few days ago to say that her zone valve controller had died.  I haven't gone out yet.  The two seem unrelated unless there was a power surge.]]>
        </description>
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    <item>
        <title>Cast Iron Radiators Leaking cracking or Burtsing</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178452/cast-iron-radiators-leaking-cracking-or-burtsing</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 14:22:04 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>leebfree</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178452@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[The Perfect storm to a Broken Radiator


I recently had an experience where one Cast Iron Baseboard radiator sprung a leak, Then another.

The pressure Gauge on my OIL fueled Boiler showed normal.

If your experiencing Cracked, Leaking, or Failed Radiators check these Items:

Check your Temperature &amp; Pressure emergency vent valve. These are USUALLY corroded and not working. This wont create an over pressure scenario in your boiler but since this valve wont open the pressure goes to the weakest spot. Your cast Iron Radiators. Replace this Valve. They cost about $25 and are easily accessed on the exterior of the boiler.

Also check your Pressure &amp; Temperature Gauge on your furnace. In my case the temperature portion was working perfectly but the pressure gauge portion was stuck at a value that indicated normal. Yet when the boiler was shut off the indicated pressure did not change. Although this pressure gauge did not cause an over pressure condition. It really caused a problem trouble shooting. as it kept telling me my boiler was not in over pressure when in fact it was. This Gauge replacement was about $25 for the gauge and its easy to change from the exterior of a boiler.

Now we get to what really caused the over pressure condition resulting in cracked radiators. When Water is heated it expands. In a closed system of water running in radiators this expanded water must go somewhere. In most cases it should go in to an expansion tank. This tank hold some water and mostly AIR and is a AIR Tight container. As the water is heated and expands it flows into this Expansion tank, compressing the air in the tank. The water expands into the tank and the compressed air push back on the water so as the water Shrinks when it cools it leaves the expansion tank and goes back to the radiator circuit.

IF you have leaking , new leaks or cracks in a radiator I would recommend checking these 5 things
Is Emergency relief Valve Free of corrosion and working properly
Does Pressure and Temperature Gauge function properly and show a change from a cold boiler to a Boiler in operation
Is valve to Expansion tank open and operating correctly
Does expansion tank have proper amount of water and AIR
Is expansion tank leaking? Is it air tight and holding compression
At the end of the day;

if your seeing any damage to radiators. Make sure boilers expansion tank is function properly AND your boiler is operating at the correct pressure and temperatures.
Generally about 10 to 20 pounds of pressure and 180 to 210 in temperature however that does vary boiler to boiler and application to application to check your system specifications.]]>
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    <item>
        <title>Pure Pro Advantage Review</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178445/pure-pro-advantage-review</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 23:52:02 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Oil Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>djc1972</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178445@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I just received a quote for a Pure Pro Advantage 3 Chamber OIl Boiler. I cannot seem to find any reviews of this boiler or comparisons to and Weil Mclaine, Burnham or Buderas, Can anyone help? Thanks!]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Replace maid o mist, or keep cap tightened?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178406/replace-maid-o-mist-or-keep-cap-tightened</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 28 Dec 2019 04:15:39 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>bubbajoe</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178406@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I watched some youtube videos on bleeding air from a heating system.  A couple of them discussed various parts of the overall system.  They showed an automatic air release valve above the expansion tank and pointed out that it is "CRITICAL" that the little cap be loose.  

Now...I have no plumbing experience at all so I decided not to try to drain the system to get all the air out.  But I did notice our system has a 'maid o mist' automatic vent on top of the 'american air purger' air scoop, which is above the expansion tank.  I checked the cap, and it was not loose.  I loosened it and got a few little hisses of air, then water streamed out slowly.  So, I tightened it back up.

'Researching' the issue brought me here.  I've seen many posts on here that suggest all these type of vents will eventually leak, so just tighten the cap.

So, I have two questions:
Should I replace the maid o mist, or just leave the cap tight?
Could this cap being tight, have led to our problem of having gurgling sounds coming from the baseboard registers?]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Honeywell Aquastat 8124</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178450/honeywell-aquastat-8124</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 13:07:52 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Controls</category>
        <dc:creator>nunesman</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178450@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Honeywell aquastat on Peerless tankless system, heat and h/w. Settings (high/low/diff) at 200/170/20. It is my understanding that at 170 and 20 diff, boiler should fire at 160 and will heat water to 180. The problem that we are having is when domestic hot water is run, the boiler temp is dropping to 130s before the boiler fires. It should fire at 160. The capillary thermo is fully inserted to the well stop. This is a new aquastat. Any ideas on why the aqaustat is not firing at 160?]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>For 15-16 months now...</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178371/for-15-16-months-now</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 24 Dec 2019 18:52:25 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>Steve Minnich</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178371@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[they’ve been kind enough to let me write a column for them 😎. There is life after Contracting. <a href="https://www.phcppros.com/articles/10566-are-you-the-curious-sort" rel="nofollow">https://www.phcppros.com/articles/10566-are-you-the-curious-sort</a>]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Monoflow System to Radiant Floor Conversion</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178225/monoflow-system-to-radiant-floor-conversion</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 15 Dec 2019 18:32:45 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>Peter_26</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178225@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello All,

Can the primary loop of a single pipe monoflow system be kept as is and the individual piping that provides heat to the individual rooms be converted to underfloor radiant plates? (Uponor Joist Trak) By this I am asking can the existing supply and return off of the main loop for each baseboard fin for each room be used to connect each under floor radiant loop? 

I have thoughts of either keeping the existing boiler with a lower supply temp and using thermostatic mixing valves at each room circuit. I was thinking of eliminating the baseboard, tapping into the return and supply with oxygen barrier pex and the Joist Trak.  Would this work or am I opening up to a slew of problems?

My other thought is of changing out the existing cast iron boiler, which is working perfectly ( Not my first option because why fix something that's not broken and has proven to be reliable) with a high efficiency model with ODR and still install the trak panels for the underfloor system. 

Unbelievably my home seems to be undersized in the baseboard department for the year the home was built in (1965). I like the idea of using less fuel with less SWT, but if the baseboards are undersized, neither boiler, cast iron or high efficiency would be used to it's rated efficiency, unless I install more baseboard. Thia is why I was thinking of using the trak panels.

Any advice and observations would be greatly appreciated. I know there are a ton of things I am not thinking about because this is not my trade and you guys are by far the best forum I have been in that point out all the scenarios that I can go about accomplishing my objective. If pictures of my existing system are needed then I will post them.

Thanks,
Pete 

]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Munchkin 926 control board upgrade</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178422/munchkin-926-control-board-upgrade</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 29 Dec 2019 10:39:00 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>hmontena</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178422@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Have been getting issues with 2006 Munchkin 80M with 925 board. F18 fault which is gas valve failure. this occurred about 6 times, reset and things were back in operation. My heating man and I agree that it sounds like the board. Went in to verify that all the wiring connections were secure. Has been running. I purchased a 926 board upgrade. The vendor told me that I had to purchase a '926' wiring harness. 

Is this a fact? The wiring harness is different? The color codes and schematics look to be the same.  The controller is the only difference? If so I will return the $115 harness.

Thank you for your help, Herb]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Bosch FW 200 on my Greenstar 151 with error 15</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178364/bosch-fw-200-on-my-greenstar-151-with-error-15</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 24 Dec 2019 01:05:37 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Controls</category>
        <dc:creator>condenseit</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178364@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[To do outdoor reset control Bosch told me I needed the FW200, so I got one and put it on the front of my boiler today.
I did not put the Bosch temperature sensor up because my contractor had already put one up, a standard Honeywell 2 terminal deal. The two sensor wires are attached to the A and F terminals on the board in the boiler. I checked the connections, and put my volt meter across the A-F terminals on the boiler's board (power off) and read 1660 Ohms, and it was just over 30 degrees F outside, which seems right. 

I am getting error 15: outdoor temperature sensor not connected. Outdoor temperature not available.
Why if the resistance is measuring properly right at the screw terminals on the boiler is this thing (the FW200) not reading outside temperature?  Bosch will not talk to me unless I am a contractor. Please help :)
I can A) get a Bosch temperature sensor and replace my brand new (apparently working) one. I need the part number because the FW200 I bought was used and working, but did not come with the outdoor temperature sensor. I probably don't need the housing just the electrical thermo resistor. 
B) ? I don't know what else to do.

The boiler is a brand new Bosch 151 combi boiler installed with baseboard heat in two zones (up and down stairs). 
Seems like a great machine.

I  want to have the boiler water temperature adjusted based on outside temperature.
I need 175 F water when the temps are -10 F, but can run cooler boiler temps when it is warmer outside. 

Also, is the FW200 compatible with my Google NEST? 
Also, why is this so complicated??
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Nat Gas required BTU's for whole house Gen plus the house appliances</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178411/nat-gas-required-btus-for-whole-house-gen-plus-the-house-appliances</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 28 Dec 2019 14:38:30 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>USMC3105</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178411@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello, 

 A continuation from Gas Meter Size Thread.   I am having a whole house gen (Generic 22Kw) installed by a local electric co (location is NJ. 50 miles SW of Newark). I had to call up the Gas Co. to see if my meter needed to be upgraded.  The Gas Co tells me based off the max demand BTUs of my gas appliances I need to upgrade the line coming in the from the street to the house from a 1/2 inch pipe to a 3/4 inch for $5500.00   My meter is AC-250 with a max BTU of 390k.   There are 2 other whole gens on the same street as me. Both are  just two housed down from me. A 3rd one whole house gen is on the next block over.  They all called the same Gas Co and they only had to upgrade their meter.  And yes we did go over appliances Btu requirements.  As of now,  I need 383k BTU for the appliances.  I am replacing the tank-less hot water heater for a tank. That will drop my BTU  requirement (without Gen requirement) to 250k. Gas Co say still not good enough.   Home Gen is Generic 22k with 327k BTU required at max use.  

Two things they won't answer:   

  1. How much BTU's for the house will require a line upgrade?  I was told by them, they can't tell me that number until they punch in the numbers to the computer.  Really?  I don't believe it. 
   
  2. Why am I the only one who needs to upgrade the line from the street to the house, yet not the other homes   on the street?   They say, because of your required demand.  They even go as far as upping the requirement for the stove top/oven from 83k BTU's to 114k BTU's.  Fighting with them on that this Monday.  

Does anyone know if you can figure out the BTU's before to have to upgrade the line? 

Thanks all for you help.  They wife thinks I am going over the edge on this.  Its the Marine in me that won't surrender just as the fight begins.  


Mike 


 

]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Primary/secondary worth it?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178280/primary-secondary-worth-it</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 18 Dec 2019 20:33:36 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Oil Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>super_snop</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178280@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello everyone. I’’ in the process of researching how to set up a new boiler that I will be installing after the winter time. My house is a 2 floor colonial 2200 sqr feet. Heated by an oil fired boiler supplying water to 3/4” copper fin tube baseboards. I have not had the chance to do a heat loss calc yet or measure out the radiation. Last year I did some updates to my old boiler and from research decided against cold starting. I currently run a 180 high limit, 145 low limit, with the economy feature enables on my hydrolevel 3250 plus. After running a year like that, I did not notice any ill effects from condensation or soot. Boiler was barely dirty.  Just want to get my planning right for when I eventually install the new boiler. My main question is... Is a primary/secondary setup ideal for a small residential system like this? I read all kinds of mixed things. Most saying that its not necessary with 3/4” fin tubes.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>DHW - What is best with Boiler setup</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178398/dhw-what-is-best-with-boiler-setup</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 27 Dec 2019 06:15:11 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Domestic Hot Water</category>
        <dc:creator>drivenserb</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178398@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hi, I’m in the process of replacing my boiler and power vented water heater. <br />
<br />
I’ve received 3 quotes I’m being told 3 different things will be the best for my home.<br />
<br />
All company’s are quoting me viessman B1HA or B1KA<br />
<br />
Option 1 B1HA and for DHW tankless water heater.<br />
<br />
Option 2 B1KA only 3.6 GPM<br />
<br />
Option 3 B1HA and 42G indirect tank. <br />
<br />
I have another guy coming tomorrow to quote me a Navien combi boiler saying he can add a resivoir tank to the combi to bump me to 5GPM but sounds fishy to me and I do not want any pressure issues either. <br />
<br />
It’s a 2 story home with basement rental. 2 bath, 2 kitchen 2 Laundry. The problem I’m having is everyone is contradicting each other as to what the best solution is for DHW. From what I’ve read Indirect tank should be the best but is 42G tank really big enough? I’m being told yes but I don’t think it is. <br />
<br />
What are disadvantages to going indirect? I do not want to have hot water shortage issues and I can’t rely on what these contractors are telling me. <br />
<br />
I’m quoting with very large well known contractors in Toronto, Ontario. <br />
<br />
Thank you in advance!]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>GV90+ output temp low</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178449/gv90-output-temp-low</link>
        <pubDate>Tue, 31 Dec 2019 05:15:54 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Gas Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>z987k</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178449@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I have a Weil-Mclain GV90+.  The temperature on the circuit board inside the unit seems to be reading quite high.  It was set to 180, and it will drop to 160 before it fires up and gets it back to 180 again.
The analog temp/pressure sensor at the outlet of the boiler reads 120 as does the one immediately after the pump(I don't know why there's 2 so close together) when the digital one on the circuit board reads 180.
I turned it up to 200 and now the 2 analog thermometers read ~135.
The reason I was even looking at this is the heat was not keeping up with demand.  With an outside temp of 15F and the thermostat set to 68, it was only getting to about 60, no higher.   Normally when you raise the temp on the thermostat on the wall it is very quick to raise the room temp.

I figured the temperature sensor for the boiler was faulty, so I replaced that, but that did not fix the issue.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Help with New gas furnace proposal with American standard</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178279/help-with-new-gas-furnace-proposal-with-american-standard</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 18 Dec 2019 17:22:35 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>bink</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178279@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I posted a few questions so far and am making progress. My daughter furnace failed last week i am trying to help her choose  a system.
I am attaching a proposal from a company with a american standard silver 80 gas furnace model AS8X1B060M3PSAA or upgrade to american standard gold 96-2 stage model AS8x2b060m3.

Hoping someone could look this over and comment.
Is America standard a good choice. Consumer reports rates them highly but wondering because have seen negative comments on other sites.
Is the 80 silver model good. 

This a condo with in the middle of the building side walls not exposed built about 20 years ago. in south eastern pa . 
It has bryant gas furnance.
The contractors do not do a heat load study  but i think match the btu’s to the existing unit. So far either 60,000 btu or 70,000 btu.has been specified. 
 I would like to get everything correct but timing is important because she is without<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/9k/b077xf32fg7a.jpeg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/mv/49rwt4lpu93j.jpeg" alt="" />
 heat and is new to the area her condo is at  so i cannot help with contractor recommendations

Any help is greatly appreciated.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Replacing old oil boiler with more efficient system</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178311/replacing-old-oil-boiler-with-more-efficient-system</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 20 Dec 2019 10:31:07 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Heating Hell</category>
        <dc:creator>kitugreat</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178311@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello everybody,
 My oil burner is on its last leg. My oil company - Kerivan lane told me that it needs to be replaced ASAP. They found a leak that they patched up.
I was doing some research on a new boiler and saw that some people replacing it with electric one.
It cost less to install, not as expensive as oil burner, don't need oil tank, takes less space, don't require chimney and also more efficient.
Unfortunately it may cost more to run it due to electricity prices. Some states have discounted electricity prices for people with electric heat, but not sure about MA.
 I did some research online and saw that some people also use Sanden CO2 and other high efficiency heat pump systems.
Can I somehow combine them with my existing baseboard radiators for efficiency and comfort?
I also have PV solar panels that provide me with about 5 mega wt of excess electricity a years.
So here are some questions. Would it make sense to do it in our area? Would it be cost effective in a long run in my case? Anybody had an experience with this type of conversion?
Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Boiler Replacement Questions</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178438/boiler-replacement-questions</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 04:18:57 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>garrettgjp</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178438@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hey all,

My 22 year old natural gas WM EG-35 Steam boiler sprung a leak here in ND on my 2 pipe steam system. I contacted my local contractor who has worked on my system before to work on ordering a replacement.  The near boiler piping is not up to par with what I see here at heating help ( my boiler has a single header, copper piping, etc) so that was a concern and made me wonder if  my boiler was sized appropriately for my system. 

I printed off the WM boiler sizing guide and followed the instructions. I measured my tube radiators height and width, counted the tubes and sections, calculated the EDR,  BTUs/hr and came up with 98,000 BTUs/hr. 

I looked at the WM EG boiler technical data under the Net Steam MBH column and it looks like the appropriate size boiler for my system is between the EG-45 (94 MBH) and EG-50 (109 MBH). Am I calculating this correctly? Should I size down when talking to the contractor? 

It seems from what I read on the forum there are many more issues with oversized rather than undersized boilers. I just want to make sure when I have this thing replaced it is correctly sized for my system. 

At times it seems like my boiler was running constantly to heat my house and and I never really registered any pressure on my 0-3psi gauge... was my boiler under sized? Is that possibly why this boiler had a shorter life span? The system was definitely neglected when I bought the home, so I wasn't surprised it kicked the bucket - hormel chili-esqe water drained out of the boiler the first time i tried flushing it and there wasn't a skim port on it until I added it (not pictured).  

I'd appreciate any insights and input so I can intelligently discuss this with the contractor. I am very thankful for this forum for those who contribute, I have learned so much over the last few years with my steam system!!!

<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/hm/39xck5j0oqrb.jpg" alt="" />

<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/e2/brokrqjewa74.jpg" alt="" />
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Main Venting/Gorton radiator balancing</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178328/main-venting-gorton-radiator-balancing</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 21 Dec 2019 02:10:39 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>gfrbrookline</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178328@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[So after recommending Ventrite No 1's for a long time and at times Gorton's, I tried a Hoffman 1A today, set to 3.5.  Does anyone else find them to sound like a asthma patient when they are venting?  Much more venting noise than a Gorton but similar sound. I find the Ventrite virtually silent.

My vaporstat is set 10oz. cut out and 4oz. cut in so it's not a pressure issue.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Ridged threaders</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178421/ridged-threaders</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 29 Dec 2019 06:50:54 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Plumbing</category>
        <dc:creator>Hibernation_Heating</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178421@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I have a ridged 4-p threader. Do they seriously not make teeth anymore for these things]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Embassy ONEX - Domestic Hot Water not flowing</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178441/embassy-onex-domestic-hot-water-not-flowing</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 18:57:17 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Gas Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>Wayupnorthguy</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178441@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[We have had several lockout issues and ignition failure events.  Mostly in the summer months.  Unit has been serviced yearly.  Lately we have been having DMH issues where the water runs cold.  The unit displays "D" with a temp around 50. (DMH set to ~130).  It will stay in this condition as long as the tap is open.  I've had to Power cycle the unit (sometimes twice) to get it to reset and work.  I have tried turning the DMH to the "off" position for up to 1 minute and then back on but this does not correct the issue.  I'm thinking that there may be a faulty scald-prevention valve or controller.  ?? (And I'm not happy with my local service rep.  If there are any more technically astute service organizations in Anchorage that works on ONEX I'd like to know).  The one I currently work with starts with an A and ends with an A.
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Why can't I get the two sides of my house heating at the same time?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/169585/why-cant-i-get-the-two-sides-of-my-house-heating-at-the-same-time</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 25 Feb 2019 02:13:53 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>Ps44</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">169585@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[When we moved in we  re-piped the boiler accordingly to manufacturers manual with two risers and two steam mains. The one issue we continue to have is that one of the steam mains going to one side of the house gets air much much faster (at least 5 minutes difference) than the other side of the house. All the vents, main vents and radiator vents,  are much smaller on that side of the house that is getting air faster than the main vents and radiator vents on the side of the house getting air slower. We have a crown jamaica series boiler.

We have brainstormed this issue with many boiler experts but they too are stumped. One suggested we plug the small main vent (currently Hoffman 40A) on the warm side and leave the other main vents (two with Hoffman 75).  It just seems to defy logic to me that the warm side is still pulling all the steam faster. Just as an fyi Pressuretrol is set to what Dan Holohan recommends, and we have a one pipe steam system.

If you have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Direct On-Demand DHW with Weil McClain Ultra 155</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178317/direct-on-demand-dhw-with-weil-mcclain-ultra-155</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 20 Dec 2019 14:44:01 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Domestic Hot Water</category>
        <dc:creator>bzevotek</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178317@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I had an indirect on the DHW priority 1. I replaced it with an electric On-Demand that occasionally trips the breaker when it draws cold well water in the winter. Can I just flush my boiler and use the priority 1 for a DIRECT on-demand DHW supply (open loop system)? All of my other loops can be run at close to the same temperature (Mid 120's)? My boiler is undersized for my house and we are superinsulated.
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Roth tank with overhead line.</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178400/roth-tank-with-overhead-line</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 27 Dec 2019 15:19:23 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Oil Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>rolandoLI</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178400@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Im new here but always reading the posts, i have a new Boiler installed little over a year ago, my oil tank is buried underground very old, i have friends in the construction business so one day i got a call about a brand new Roth tank so i went to got it for free. got the guy installed a single overhead line connected to a tigerloop 100 gallons on tank purge the lines and got the boiler running and left. a noticed every time boiler runs now the chamber on tigerloop FOAMS a lot, text it the guy he says is normal. it never did that before with the buried tank im afraid im going to loose prime and boiler will stop running on the coldest night.
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/3k/2gmtc939ny9t.png" alt="" />
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Organization</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178442/organization</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 21:41:00 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>mattyc</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178442@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Any contractors use any CRM applications? Trying to find a more efficient way to organize all my customer Info rather then pen and paper and a filing cabinet...I do a lot of boiler work and like to keep all my customers equipment info on file for yearly maintenance calls. I am a very small one man show so looking for something that’s not super expensive and doesn’t need to be all that complex. Thanks all.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Sharkbite fittings' max temp vs. possible boiler temperatures?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178329/sharkbite-fittings-max-temp-vs-possible-boiler-temperatures</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 21 Dec 2019 02:31:36 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Radiant Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>MrCofDG</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178329@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[ I've come across an apparent contradiction..... background: I'm considering using oxygen-barrier PEX in an enhancement to my copper hydronic piping.  My boiler manual recommends a temp setting of 200 degrees for baseboards and convectors.  (I'm not running that high now).  <b>BUT </b>www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-coupling says the fittings are only rated for 200 degrees F.   Hmmm.  That seems to imply that brass SharkBite fittings would be <i>risky </i>to use......  comments/experience ?]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Bosch outdoor temperature sensor parts?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178424/bosch-outdoor-temperature-sensor-parts</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 29 Dec 2019 13:51:07 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Controls</category>
        <dc:creator>condenseit</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178424@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I have a Bosch Greenstar 151 wall mounted combi boiler and my contractor put up and wired in an outdoor temperature sensor. 
The brand new sensor mounted to my home is a Bosch part number 6 720 649 714, which is on its own and not connected to any wires reading at:
40F = 22 kΩ resistance 
50F = 17 kΩ 
70 F = 7 kΩ
The sensor I have is shaped like a hexagon.
http://buderus-pt-pt-b.boschtt-documents.com/download/pdf/file/6720649714.pdf
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/tm/ic95ak41wp0o.tiff" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/w6/95dz47i8coqf.tiff" alt="" />

I bought a used Bosch Greenstar FW200 Weather Compensation Boiler Control (87182262150) to work with the outdoor temperature sensor. The seller did not send the paired outdoor temperature sensor (shown in pictures below on his house). The FW200 is expecting to read temperature as resistance from sensor part number 6 720 610 967-10.2j and although there is not an expected resistance table in the FW200 documentation, my Bosch Greenstar 151 (ZWB42-3A) manual in Table 16.4.1 on page 59 says the outdoor temperature sensor resistances should be at:
-4 F = 2.392 Ω
10 F = 1.811 Ω
32 F = 1.149 Ω
50 F = 781 Ω
The expected sensor housing is shaped like a little house (Figure 15.1).
https://www.bosch-climate.us/files/201107251719310.6720643256_BoschGreenstar_FW200-ISM.pdf
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/kq/3f34prln98rr.tiff" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/o2/bactsubqk6xq.tiff" alt="" />

Where can I get the proper temperature sensor as the one I have appears to be reading resistances 20X to high?
The sensor in my housing is shaped like a wishbone with a single small element at the top. 
Are these two sensors different other than the shape of the housing?
Can someone please help me find a part number for just the thermo resistor somewhere and not just the whole unit?
I believe I will be able to put the sensor element in the enclosure I have mounted.

I am calling Bosch on Monday to try to get the answer to this question, but any input is great appreciated.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Am I Over Staffed ? Or Under staffed ?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178427/am-i-over-staffed-or-under-staffed</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 29 Dec 2019 15:50:05 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Oil Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>RW10</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178427@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[My question is for hvac contractors or possibly owners of  home heating oil companies.
How did you decide on the number of employees you have ? 
My wife and I own a small HVAC company that we started in 2004 .we have aprox    5000  active / repeat customers and maybe 10,000 total in our system .   We have 6 licensed technicians and  3 apprentices . 

First    ,   is there an industry  ‘  norm ‘ for tech to customer ratio? For some reason back when I worked for a full service oil company they used 1 tech per thousand customers .  Does this sound logical? 

Second   ,   We   Have 9 service  employees, ,  And 4 Office staff  , Basically they do all things phone  Related , if it rings they are first contact .   Plus the two owners  , that run the office , All 
Schedules , service calls  , maintenance appt . Write proposals etc.  Is there an industry’s standard for the ratio of office staff To service people ?  My  wife handles the accounting and HR , I supervise the schedule, do all sales , and do all estimates.  Hire , and let go  and be sure all techs are up on training  .  Etc. 
]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Armstrong oil pack board needed</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178439/armstrong-oil-pack-board-needed</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 12:57:18 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Oil Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>John Mills_5</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178439@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Anybody got an old R06428D459 from Armstrong's Oil packaged unit sitting around? Guy on hvac-talk.com needs one and they aren't available from Allied/Lennox any more. ]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Do you need a bigger btu output on a boiler than a furnace?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/176459/do-you-need-a-bigger-btu-output-on-a-boiler-than-a-furnace</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:46:24 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Gas Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>grantiman</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">176459@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I have a new built in-law apartment, I was given a quote for a Lennox 95% efficient 45,000 btu gas furnace, long story short I'm unable to use forced air and decided to put in a h/w boiler. They gave me another quote on a 90 % efficient 50,000 btu boiler, why are the boilers btu's more than the furnace btu's? ]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>50% Defective Big Mouths in recent order</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178395/50-defective-big-mouths-in-recent-order</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 27 Dec 2019 02:03:17 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>1Matthias</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178395@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I installed 6 B&amp;J big mouths on a recent job. At the time of installation, all seemed to be well on the test fire. However, only 2 weeks later I was called back due to the boiler losing vast quantities of water as well as the homeowner noticing odd sounds.  Upon arriving, steam was observed exiting a doorjam above the vents!  <img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/38/xw1umtlh5hat.jpg" alt="" /> (Damage to the finish of the door due to the steam)
In total, 3 of the installed 6 vents were still steaming after steam reached them, one severely. https://i.imgur.com/C0tamj0.mp4 Has anyone else seen this with recent batches of the big mouths, or is this a fluke? Also, how should I go about getting replacements? Currently they've been replaced by the $1 main vent (3/4" pipe plug), but I'd obviously like to install new ones ASAP. Thank you all, and a belated Merry Christmas!]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Ceiling Radiator doesn't heat</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178380/ceiling-radiator-doesnt-heat</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 25 Dec 2019 19:28:16 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Strictly Steam</category>
        <dc:creator>gtomr</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178380@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I have a ceiling radiator in the basement of an 1920s house that doesn't heat.  It is likely original.  The rest of the radiators in the house heat quickly including the other ceiling radiator.  The steam makes it just past the radiator valve to 1 or 2 fins out of 40 or so, but most of the radiator is cold. 
There is a steam trap body but no trap mechanism.  
The return runs 30 feet and "T"s in to the other ceiling radiator return which then "T"s  in to the dry return
Best I can calculate return slope is about 1" for 30 feet.
I assume it worked at some time, but not in my time. 
Any ideas what is wrong, and how to fix it?]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Cast Iron Radiator system repiping?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178440/cast-iron-radiator-system-repiping</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 30 Dec 2019 17:12:07 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Radiant Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>MTC</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178440@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I haven't been around here in years - guess that's a good thing.  I asked input about 6 years ago on a hydronic system in a property I had just bought, expecting to need to replace the boiler right away.  Boiler has been going strong all this time with a few things (new gauge, expansion tank, etc).  

I had repaired a minor leak years back in the piping, and have had one valve stem leak a little since then.  Yesterday I discovered another leak in the transition from the old 2" main to the newer copper 1 1/4" lines off the boiler.  Probably some dissimmilar metals corrosion... It managed to soak about 30 feet of pipe insulation before dripping in a very inconvenient place... anyway...

This building is an up/down duplex with single heating system.  I was there because 2nd floor was complaining that its too hot in their unit.  They lived in the unit last winter and said it was about 69-70, but now is getting about 72-74 degrees and they'd prefer cooler (just glad they told  me rather than opening a window).  I haven't changed anything in the last year, but checked for basic things - thermostat settings, open windows in first apartment making it run longer, air in those radiators making it run longer, etc, and don't see anything that I can see would cause the unbalance.  

So given that I have had a few leaks now in the old piping, and that I have less than ideal balancing (though historically its been pretty decent), and have an old oversized boiler that will need replacing before long, a couple questions...

Should I repipe the whole basement?  All mains are accessible in basement, risers to 2nd floor would be difficult to replace, but rest is fairly easy.  If so, should I go with a pex manifold system with balancing valves?  One step further, should I split the mains and put in 2 manifolds and feed each unit separately, giving the option of splitting the heating when the boiler goes?  

House is about 1800 sq ft, has 4 CI radiators in smaller 2nd floor apartment, 1CI rad in common hallway (thinking I'd put this one with 2nd floor as mostly it heats the stairs going up to their door), 4 CI rads in first apartment, 1 baseboard fin rad in first bathroom, and a pair of baseboard fin rads in series in the basement under first floor bedroom/bath to keep water pipes from freezing.  Figured I could put those on first floor as thats what they primarily serve.  There is also a shared laundry room in basement, currently heated only by some uninsulated piping in the basement (3/4 lines to some rads, all larger mains are insulated).  I did a heat load with SlantFin's app and got about 60k after the insulation etc that has been done (currently has ancient 100k output boiler).  There is lots more info about the system in this old post if anyone is interested:  https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/146936/preparing-ahead-of-time-for-a-boiler-replacement#latest

So would it make sense to split the 1 1/4" copper pipe off the boiler to 2) 1" manifolds - a 5 port for 2nd floor/hall and a 6 port for first floor and the basement?  Seems like most people recommend 1/2" pex or PAP for these, will that be enough for some of my giant radiators?  Here's a picture of the largest one, on the first floor... Its about 23" tall, 66" long, and not sure on depth off hand, maybe 8"?

<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/dj/4dbzx2cmqkui.jpg" alt="" />

Any thoughts on if this system would even be worth bothering to split the units?  My bills aren't that crazy, and the added cost for multiple manifolds, 2 boilers/accessories/etc, and getting second gas meter in the property might not really ever be worth it?  Would also have to put in second water heater, repipe gas ranges, etc to complete the split...

Is the manifold system the way to go with a system like this?  Should I just try to repair the pipes more and leave well enough alone?  Just worried about ongoing leaking issues...

Thanks in advance, especially for enduring the book length post.]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Taco RMB-1 cartridge question</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178340/taco-rmb-1-cartridge-question</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 21 Dec 2019 21:00:23 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Radiant Heating</category>
        <dc:creator>Flaps</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178340@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I removed a cartridge(008-045RP) because it was not circulating the water in my system. I noticed that there was brown rusty water coming from within the cartridge itself. I don't think there should be water in the cartridge. Can anyone confirm this? I will be replacing it regardless just wondering. 
I ran the circ motor with the cartridge installed ( motor not in system)and you can tell that the bearings are no good. I think the bearing seal went and allowed water into the cartridge and it rusted out the bearings while the system was idle over the summer.
Photos are just for reference<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/ct/e5tsxpqhuzus.jpg" alt="" />
<img src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/f6/e0h0bhfwtav0.jpg" alt="" />


Thanks


]]>
        </description>
    </item>
    <item>
        <title>Experience with PVI CONQUEST Condensing DHW Tank?</title>
        <link>https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/178409/experience-with-pvi-conquest-condensing-dhw-tank</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 28 Dec 2019 11:26:36 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>THE MAIN WALL</category>
        <dc:creator>BigRob</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">178409@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[Hello everyone, 

Do any of your have any input on PVI and specifically the Conquest series? The Conquest looks like an interesting design. 

https://www.pvi.com/products/hvac-hot-water-solutions/water-heaters/gas-condensing-water-heaters/conquest-100#jl_e643ccad-83ab-407a-9f57-775ef23cc4f8]]>
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