is forced hot air cleaner than baseboard heat?

just a thought

Have them go to a house that has had hot air for say 10 year's...and open the ductwork up. I did a job yesterday and the woman was a fanatic when it came to cleaning. But when I opened the ductwork the furball's were 2 inch's deep. When I asked how often she replaced the filter she pointed to a case of filter's and said weekly during heating season....And yes she was the first and only owner in the house...:)

I am getting baseboard heating but I have forced air now
and I hate it. it is not clean maybe because I do not have
an electronic air cleaner and a air recovery ventilator to bring in fresh air from the outside but maybe forced air can be clean if you install toughs things

and if you have duct work that is 10 years old then yes get them cleaned by a pro not some cheep guy that says he can do a good job a good duct cleaning in a average size house takes 4 to 6 hours.

but for me I am moving to baseboard as long as I keep them clean once a year I should be ok with smell and what not

like anything if you take care of things they should work well

As far as I know

neither FA of BB create dust or fur balls The conditions in the home will cause this problem. Like lots of pets!

I like the quiet clean even heat of HW BB. But FA does allow filtration, cooling, humidification or dehumidification.

Just depends on the needs, wants, and comfort desired.

If a lot of pets are present it may be nicer to have some air filtration and odor removal options

hot rod

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What Is Scorched Air?

What exactly is Scorched Air? I didn't see in the original post, the person
looking for professional, unbiased help was actually looking to install a new
Gravity Type Boiler, that's the comparison you're making, that's where
the term, scorched air originates. Remember the gravity type furnace. Those days
have been long gone. The average furnace, set up properly (the same way that your
boiler needs to be set up, properly I would hope) is merely warm at most. With
a temperature Rise of 35 to 65 degrees, (I didn't loose you here, did I) your
plenum, or in the Scorched Air day, it was called "bonnet", temperature
would have had a maximum air temperature of 135 degrees, but typically it would
be 120 degrees, compared to the 180 degrees water you're running through your
base board. Your baseboard works by natural convection, because hot air rises,
it takes the cold air lying on the floor and warms it up and spits it out the
top, warming your home, but how is all the dandruff, dust and dirt filtered as
this happens…it isn't, and as the carpet breaks down, because the air is
DRY and therefore the carpet becomes dry (as well as the doors, the furniture,
the bedding, the curtains, the sinuses and well lots of things) because you have
no humidity being added with the boiler (unless of course, there becomes a leak
and then you have all the humidity you need, in dark dirty form of boiler water,
soaking into the carpet). You can of course install a whole house humidifier,
but you'll lack the ability to distribute the properly humidified air (no ductwork,
remember). So your only choice is a freestanding humidifier, which causes more
dust (the mineral deposits and stuff) read more on humidifiers just type in humidifiers
in a search engine.

"And keep the boiler's atmosphere is limited to one area",
Is this how you really educate your customers?

Back to making ductwork:)

 

Bud

TheSheetMetalShop.Com

sorry budddy

I think some of the force air guys are starting feel the pinch as hydronics expands into there market , But hay dont worry we need you guys to , I would like to see the forced air guys come up with a small duct system that would add humidity and air change to a hydronic home , code here says we must have a air change of 10 cfm per habital room and 20 for the master bed room , Hrv's do this nicely but adding humity with these doesent work so well , all the trades need to work together to make new homes with the great insolation values and mimamal sepage for are safe and comfortable , To keep the people Happy and healthy.

I agree

I agree the two systems would the ultimate system.
Surly someone must be doing this already with success.

Bud

actually

I have installed 15 to 20 systems' using hydronic's and air handler's...Mainly in larger home's who also want the comfort of a/c. I have also installed this type of system in alot of commercial applications and had excellent luck with them...
The only thing I have run into with any type of system is the history of the customer. In most cases I have not been able to swap someone from hot air to hydronic's due to the "feel" of the heat.

I installed a forced air and a/c system in my old home(there was just a gas space heater existing) and I absolutly hate it. Right now I'm in the process of installing panel rad with non electrics and future radiant when the kitchen and baths get done. But all is not lost. At least I have the ducts for my a/c.

PATRIOT HEATING & COOLING, INC.

f.h.a. ducts

gives the dust mites a place to hide and blows them all around into the air so you can breath them. I notice a lot more airborn dust in a hot air house than a radiant house, each time you vacuum your floor it is like cleaning your heater. Bob Gagnon

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Dirt and debris in a duct system is normal, especially if it is set up for heating with registers on floor. As long as the ducts stay dry shouldn't be a problem. A good pleated filter works well at removing most airborne particles, and it is only dirt that becomes airborne that is an annoyance or health issue. Duct cleaning is not needed unless there is a mold problem, then you got problems. Also, duct cleaning can damage the ducts, then you got problems too.