Boiler questions

which laars model?

I assume you're going gas?

Candidate For High Efficiency

But then again, all replacements are candidates. Even more so considering the not-so-subtle speculations of substantially higher fuel prices to come. I am not familiar with the the brands you describe and any new boiler is more efficient than your present one. I can say from experience that after we replaced a beast such as you describe with a 92%+ condensing boiler (standing radiators), the homeowner enjoys a minimum 30% reduction in fuel consumption based on hourly degree days. Other high-eff units would likely perform equally as well but we went with the Munchkin and are quite happy with the results.

Pricing is sort of taboo here but I think it would be reasonable to say your quote is quite low. Your contractor is either a very caring friend or he must owe your Dad a tremendous debt of gratitude which he intends to repay to you. Impossible for me to know what he plans to do but I would be a little skeptical and definitely get other opinions/estimates.

If you had a warm air system I could recommend a very reasonable sheet metal man. I've even attached some of his handiwork for all to admire and envy.

Larry

Another opinion.

I agree with Don (I've also installed T/L, Lochinvar, and cast iron). Fin tube boilers were originally designed as pool heaters and batch water heaters. I suppose fin tube manufacturers decided they wanted to get a piece of the residential market.

Your contractor may be quoting you a copper fin tube boiler to keep your costs down - they typically cost less than cast iron. You'd be surprised how often this is the main design consideration.

I've installed fin tube boilers in residential for cost reasons, but don't recommend it, especially in homes with small loads like an 1800 sq.ft. home with two or more baseboard zones. The boiler turns on and off too often, creating condensation and corrosion problems in the vent pipe and sometimes in the boiler heat exchanger. Let's see, I installed a slightly oversized fin tube boiler in my home ten years ago, and so far, only the galvanized vent is corroding. This short cycling problem can be worked around with a little designing and maybe some controls.

In my opinion, cast iron is the best choice for your application, ASSUMING you want reasonable install costs, simplicity, and reliability. It will be far more efficient than the converted coal burner. If you want high efficiency, that's another story.

Teledyne Laars and Lochinvar are both decent manufacturers, I just think the application is wrong in this case. They are not Cadillacs, either. You have a choice.

Summer project: Start by sizing the boiler properly. Do an accurate heat loss calculation on your home.

My opinion.

Laars

Has a very reliable product line, IMO. Endurance models are modulating burners @ 86 % and concentric direct vent. Use them all the time (as well as JV series for low-budget jobs). If the boiler is oversized it will short-cycle and condense in the vent. Bypass piping,P/S pumping, proper sizing will prevent problems like these. Typically, my customers tell me they save fuel as compared to their cast iron boiler. (yes, even 10-12yr old models w/comparable ratings of AFUE)

Your quote sounds WAY too low. I can't imagine doing one for free!

BTW, copper boilers cost as much as cast iron Crowns after you adjust for the "package". They cost less to operate yearly, making them the better value of the two. My opinion, based on my experiences.

Larry, nice tin work! I know that guy ! He does roofs, awnings, gutters, well drilling, auto repairs, AND has time to sell firewood !!! True Talent.