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Burnham ES2 - ES27 Spill Switch

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jdigangi
jdigangi Member Posts: 8

Just moved into a new home and my ES2 keeps triggering the spill switch every so often. The basement is unfinished and spans entire footprint of the home with 9' ceilings. (plenty of combustion air). The boiler is 10 yrs old.

-Took the chimney apart its free and clear (7").

-The boiler came with a flex pipe from the factory I wasn't a fan of so I replaced it with solid smoke pipe with no horizontal, it now has a nice pitch directly up.

-The chimney was showing signs of rust on the flashing which I wasn't a fan of, had this replaced with a fabricated piece of stainless and I was suspecting wind might be playing a role so I got the vacu-stack cap installed as well.

-For good measure I replaced the spill switch

-Gave the boiler a good cleaning each burner etc

-Someone suggested gas pressure might be playing a role, I dialed in the gas pressure which was 4.68 to the factory recommended pressure of 3.5in WC. (didn't believe this was enough off to make any level of difference)

-There are windows in the basement which I had "cracked" but now its open, a month plus has gone past with no events, while I suspected it was a positive / negative pressure issue I have no seen a real method of proving one way or another.

The home has the full complement of exhaust fans, but no active fan triggers this issue. As it has happened in the overnight with nothing on.

A good friend suggested a fan-in-a-can. Like the field control CAS-34U which I am not opposed to buying but is there any definitive method of testing this is indeed my issue, I been living here now over a year and the frequency of this issue makes troubleshooting it a bear

Any help is appreciated

Comments

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,757
    edited July 15

    Have you looked at / inspected the actual flue passages in the boiler? If they are fouled or partially plugged, that can be an issue. To be clear, the blocked vent or spill switch and the roll out switch are often confused, does your roll out switch have a manual reset? is it located near the burner of near the chimney vent connector pipe/draft hood area?

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • jdigangi
    jdigangi Member Posts: 8

    Ed - I appreciate your reply. Its been on my list to remove the jacket and check out the actual passages between sections of the boiler. Roll out would be in-front near the burners and spill would be in the rear by the draft hood as I understand it. In my case its 100% the spill switch thats mounted to the draft hood. The gentleman that owned the home before me was a wood worker, and he had a wood shop in the basement so its completely plausible there could be a build up, although you would think it would have been burnt away the bottom under the burners was pretty clean before I cleaned the burners.

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,411

    4.68 wc gas pressure, is very very different than 3.5. Definitely possible that there was flame impingement leading to carbonization and partial blockages in the flue passageways

    jdigangi
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,238

    During the Summer , lock the stack damper in the open to help keep the chimney warm..

    Hope this helps

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    jdigangi
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,757
    edited July 15

    OK there is more info…. The wood shop in the basement can be a clue:

    1. Any airborne particles of wood dust (the small stuff from sanding can stay airborne for a long time) the get caught up in the combustion process will cause the flame to burn rich and may deposit Carbon particles (The gas company does not call it soot) to stick to the walls of the boiler and a significant build up mau cause improper combustion gas flow thru the boiler. That is usuallt the roll out problem but can trip the spill switch under certain conditions.
    2. Some shops have large exhaust fans to eliminate saw dust to the outdoors. If that vent is still connected and is operated for some reason, then you can get the downdraft in the chimney that would cause a spill switch to trip.
    3. Also check for other exhaust fans throughout the home, bathroom exhaust, kitchen exhaust and the like can create a negative pressure inside the home. The air inlet for that negative pressure zone inside the home can be your chimney of all other openings are closed (windows, doors, etc).

    @jdigangi said: "Its been on my list to remove the jacket and check out the actual passages between sections of the boiler." 

    Don't pull everything apart unless you need to: You can use a light and a mirror to inspect the boiler sections from the burner area. With some burners removed, shine a light up from the floor and use the mirror to look up thru the cast iron sections for blockages. You can also put a light inside the flue collector at the top and use the mirror to look up to see any blockage.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    jdigangi
  • jdigangi
    jdigangi Member Posts: 8

    Ed - I really appreciate your feedback thanks for giving me the time.

    1. He did have dust collection but I spent "days" cleaning and vacuuming the walls. I knocked down everything I possibly could installed fans I even had an hepa filter down there for a while. I even wet mopped the walls and all flat surfaces.
    2. The home does have a kitchen exhaust fan as well as bathroom exhaust fans in the 3 bathrooms. When it trips out its usually at night or in the overnight hours. Is there a way to validate negative pressure? Are you familiar with the field controls fan in a can? everything I been reading basically said a fan will always win in draft conditions. This might be a sledge hammer approach but I will say nothing is off the table :-)
    3. This weekend I will do some inspections, double check all burners. What do you think of blowing out the sections I have a large air compressor a gas boiler shouldn't be full of soot like a oil fired burner or am I insane ?
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,411

    Blowing out the sections is the worst possible idea. If there is actually soot, you will be scrubbing walls, cleaning or chucking clothing, linens, furniture. Gas boilers can certainly have soot or more precisely carbon deposits. Same thing for our purposes. You would be wise to remove the burners and take pictures from underneath. Pictures of in between the sections. Pretty easy to do. You might even be able to do that with the printers still in place.

    jdigangiEdTheHeaterMan
  • jdigangi
    jdigangi Member Posts: 8

    Do you guys suggest any brushes to do so? I will be using a hepa VAC

  • jdigangi
    jdigangi Member Posts: 8

    I didn't realize a gas boiler would clog up as much as a oil fired, after seeing this (videos) blowing out sounds like pure insanity. Brushes are on the way, I will be cleaning it this weekend. more to come

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,757
    edited July 17

    3. This weekend I will do some inspections, double check all burners. What do you think of blowing out the sections I have a large air compressor a gas boiler shouldn't be full of soot like a oil fired burner or am I insane ?

    Bad Idea!

    The gas company will never tell you that a gas boiler has soot in it. That is taught to every gas company employee on day 1 of taking the job. Oil heat gets sooty, and is very dirty. Gas is clean and when it does not get enough oxygen for complete combustion it will not make soot. It will "CARBONIZE" (since gas cant make soot. wink, wink.😉😉😉)

    Now that we know that story, your gas boiler can get SOOTY the same way that oil heat can get sooty. And you need a soot vac to remove that stuff. If you use an air compressor, you will soon be filing a claim with your homeowners insurance for "Smoke Damage". If you add a bag to your shop vac, it will work like a soot vac. Vac Bag Search

    Screenshot 2025-07-17 at 10.44.09 AM.png

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    jdigangi
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,855

    Who's doing the combustion test? We don’t want more than 50 ppm CO up the flue. Especially on an atmospheric. And draft needs to be tested. Isn't that why you're here, draft? You don't know until you know.

  • jdigangi
    jdigangi Member Posts: 8

    I don't have a combustion analyzer (yet) but looks like I can get a UEI or a used Testo, how do you suggest to validate draft ?

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,855

    You validate draft with a calibrated combustion analyzer.

    jdigangi
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,757
    Screenshot 2025-07-17 at 10.16.26 PM.png

    The on on the left is what I used for ever. The second from the left is the pocket version but I never liked using it. Besides they don't make them anymore. The two on the right are digital and will measure what you need, along with other things like wind speed, duct work static pressure, and gas manifold pressure. You get to choose your meter. The obsolete one is available on eBay, all the others are available on amazon.com and other retail and wholesale outlets.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    jdigangi
  • jdigangi
    jdigangi Member Posts: 8

    Ed thanks for the details I do have a Fieldpiece SDMN6 which I used to tune the gas valve looking for the others

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,238
    edited July 18

    The ES2 has a manual reset spill switch and a one-shot spill switch down by the burner .. Assuming you are reseting the button left rear on the boiler "now and then".

    When the AC is cooling the inside of the house and the weather is hot outside the house. The boiler only fires for hot water and between burn cycles the chimney could go cold . The chimney does not work until it heats up. Normally it will not trip , some jobs with less ideal chimneys it happens …The chimney that takes too long to heat up …

    The spill switch is there for your safety …Respect it ..

    Hope unit is not carbonized , if not …

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • jdigangi
    jdigangi Member Posts: 8

    Opened her up today, not much to see at all it was very clean see below. First pic before brushing, second pic the results post brushing.

    IMG_2677.jpeg

    After

    IMG_2689.jpeg IMG_2685.jpeg