Soft coal boiler help...

leonz said:

Are you burning Western Sub Bituminous Coal or Lignite? If so from which mine?? The reason I ask is you have fine powder ash like the Sub Bituminous Coal in Montana and Wyoming makes. Is the pressure gauge on your boiler a Marsh Instruments triple gauge? This is important!! Are both boilers sharing the same chimney??? 1. Do you have a manometer like the Dwyer Mark II manometer? 2. IS there barometric damper in the coal boiler flue pipe going to the chimney? a. is it mounted in a horizontal flue pipe? b. If it is mounted in the horizontal flue pipe the door weight must mounted in the left slot and pushed all the way to the left and locked. c. if it is mounted in a vertical flue pipe the damper door weight should be mounted in the right slot and pushed all the way to the right and locked. How often do you clean the flue pipes of fly ash?? Do you have a Tee anywhere in the flue pipes to allow you to collect the flyash as it drops out and then allow you you to remove a plug or cap and let it drop into a bucket to collect it?? With my personal experience with wood and coal burning for 33 years in a hand fed and my current stoker I can recommend The Honeywell L8124L triple aquastat to do the job of controlling the damper door motor too. You can set the low limit to 140 Degrees Fahrenheit and the high limit to 160 Degrees Fahrenheit. I had plenty of heat and hot water for our needs in the 33 years I used the hand fed wood and coal boiler. ONE BIG question; Is the combustion blower set up with a solenoid powered door to shut off the inlet air when the boiler reaches temperature? If it does not have a solenoid powered magnetic door to shut off the air inlet you need a combustion blower with a solenoid powered shutter door. If the combustion blower is not sealed off the air on the boiler room will continue to enter the firebox through the blower. I need to see more pictures of the boiler and the combustion blower. If you have a barometric damper in your flue pipe I would like to see a good picture of it. ================================================================= You need to make sure you order the conductive paste for the immersion well to increase the sensing ability of the bulb. You will need three R845 relays for the three zones to mate with the L8124L and a reducing bushing reduced to 3/4" for the tapping in the side of the boiler. You will need pipe dope and teflon tape to seal the reducing bushing. DO NOT USE teflon tape or pipe dope on the immersion well as it will affect the immersion wells ability to sense the water temperature and transmit the heat to the probe and then to L8124L Triple aquastat. My old hand fed used a single aquastat for the single dump zone set at 190 Degrees Fahrenheit. You just need to pick one of the zones for the single dump zone for that circulator. My coal stoker boiler uses a single aquastat for the control of the dump zone. If you are not familiar with electrical work concerning boilers its better that you hire an electrician to do the work for you. Do not let anyone tell you that the L8124L is no longer available, they are still made and sold. You may have to go to www.supplyhouse.com OR www.Mcmastercarr.com or a large local plumbing supply house if you have one nearby. DO not buy a digital triple aquastat for this boiler!!!!! You need a mechanical triple aquastat to tolerate the heat from the boiler shell.