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Radiant components design / Install

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ryoung
ryoung Member Posts: 4
in THE MAIN WALL
Hello, I have triangle tube prestige serving baseboards, and am adding an additional zone of radiant floor heat. I have three 200' loops in the radiant zone and will connect with 3/4" supply and return. Getting ready to connect to boiler and working out the kinks. Any advice is appreciated.

Planning on using a Refeng Manfifold a Taco 007-F5 pump and mixing valve. See attached sketch.

Do I need a pressure relief valve in this zone, or any additional one way valves?

Any advice much appreciated. Thanks, Ryanimage

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  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
    edited September 2015
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    We really need some more info:
    1. What model and size of Prestige boiler?
    2. How are you gonna heat your domestic water?
    3. What are the two take offs marked "D" for at the bottom of the return?
    4. Is your radiant in slab or staple up? If staple up, were heat transfer plates used?
    5. Was an accurate heat loss calc done? This is essential for determining the sizing of everything in the system. Its also essential for determining flow rates, water temps, pipe and pump sizing, control strategy, emitter sizes, tubing layout, etc.
    What size pipes are your header and runouts to the BBs?

    My initial take is that you're gonna need to pipe the boiler p\s because if the radiant is the only zone calling, and if the mixing valve closes flow to the boiler, then it will almost instantly flash steam - an experience you won't enjoy or forget. Mod/con boilers are not like cast iron ones: they're low mass and its crucial that the proper minimum flow rate be maintained through them at ALL times.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    Bob Bona_4TinmanHarvey Ramer
  • ryoung
    ryoung Member Posts: 4
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    Thanks, Bob.

    It is the Excllence 110 boiler. My domestic hot water is served by the same and already plumbed in.

    The "D"s on the bottom are just drains, those are the returns from the baseboard zones. The Baseboard is currently one zone fed by 1" copper and then two loops of 3/4" copper. I hope to split the loops into two different zones.

    I did a little sleeper system above subfloor, and I used heat transfer plates. My Calcs for heat loss for the zone are about 10,500. Thanks! Ryimageimage
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    It's hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like the boiler is already piped p/s?

    Something like this:
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Bob Bona_4
    Bob Bona_4 Member Posts: 2,083
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    How's the hot water production, Ry? Just looking for real world feedback on the Excellence.
  • ryoung
    ryoung Member Posts: 4
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    Hard for me to say with your jpeg.

    Excellence produces plenty of water so far. Have had no issues. But just two of us at home right now.
  • Bob Bona_4
    Bob Bona_4 Member Posts: 2,083
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    How about tub draws? Just trying to get a feel for its capacity. I've got some out there mainly doing one baths, haven't got any complaints.
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
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    The boiler has a circ in the cabinet, so you are already piped primary/secondary. Your drawing should work just fine. Make sure to give yourself a way to purge those new loops.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
    ryoungBobbyBoy
  • ryoung
    ryoung Member Posts: 4
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    Zman, right, I missed that so I think I can add a drain cock in the zone return, isolate each loop and purge. Then the spirovent in main run should maintain the system. Ry

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