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What's the biggest issue with this system? Pictures included.

Hey guys, still LOTS to learn about steam. I encountered this system today and thought I could learn by posting some pics.

This is a one-pipe system. The boiler was recently installed and the homeowner just recently purchased the home. It's a small, two story house.

There are a few radiators not getting hot. I figured there was most likely a lack of venting all around. I forgot to snag a picture of the radiators, but they are equipped with the adjustable Vent-Rite type (most are haggard looking).

Here are two pictures of the two total vents on the return lines.



and



Of course, replacing the radiator vents and increasing the main vents would make a big improvement for lowest investment. When I reached the basement I then realized the near boiler piping was all wrong (I've attached pictures below along with a screenshot of the Peerless manual install recommendation). They've only used one riser, no header, etc, etc. The riser shown coming up connects directly to the main about 6 - 7' up. Now this would be a substantially larger investment for them to fix.

Is this contributing to wet steam and possibly cold radiators? Can I confidently say that the correct near boiler piping will make a drastic change? There is currently no banging in the pipes and the system is pitched correctly.

What do the steam pros think?








Comments

  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,476
    edited December 2014
    The header will have to be properly installed at some point to get dry steam. If they balk at the cost right now make sure all the steam piping is properly pitched and has no sags along it's length.

    If the system is really running at 4PSI, check the white wheel inside the vaporstat and turn it down to 1, the front tab should be as low as it will go BUT check to make sure the pressuretrol resets when the boiler cycles off and the pressure goes down.

    The main venting should probably be substantially increased, If you can run the system at low pressure (1.5PSI or less), 20 ft of 2" main would like to see one Gorton #2 for every 20 ft of length.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
    Ross_24
  • DanHolohan
    DanHolohan Member, Moderator, Administrator Posts: 16,513
    This needs a repipe to comply with the manufacturer's instructions. The carryover water isn't smart enough to make that sharp turn into the equalizer.
    Retired and loving it.
    Ross_24
  • Definitely install more Gorton 2's for the main venting, and for better operation, repipe according to the Peerless instructions, eventually. Insulate the pipes if they will not repipe immediately.
    Explain that you are dealing with a system of several parts, and that more than one change must be made, to get things to behave.--NBC
    Ross_24
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,796
    The near-boiler piping is definitely wrong. But what's keeping the water from getting up to the steam main is that 6-7' rise between the boiler and the mains. Post the model number of that Peerless so we can tell for sure what the pipe sizes should be.

    Those cute little Vent-Rites on the mains are almost certainly too small. How long are the steam mains and what pipe size are they?
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    Ross_24
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265

    This needs a repipe to comply with the manufacturer's instructions. The carryover water isn't smart enough to make that sharp turn into the equalizer.

    Dumb water.

    Ross_24
  • maybe if the home owner could see this video of a boiler piped in glass, showing how much water needs to be diverted into the equalizer, by proper piping, before it gets into the mains; then they would see why the instructions must be followed.--NBC

    http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/152119/steam-boilers-the-inside-story-lots-of-videos
    Ross_24
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
    For some reason I can’t figure out the venting of the exhaust gasses…looks a little funny….Also not seeing a 9D….I agree disassemble and repipe by the book
    Ross_24
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    j a said:

    For some reason I can’t figure out the venting of the exhaust gasses…looks a little funny….Also not seeing a 9D….I agree disassemble and repipe by the book

    I couldn't figure that out either, unless that is a Tee with a reducer for the water heater on one end and the boiler flue on the other. If that's the case, I seriously doubt that meets code. seems like one or the other appliance would blow (leak) back into the other, even with the chimney draw.

    Ross_24
  • Ross_24
    Ross_24 Member Posts: 82
    edited December 2014
    Yes I forgot to mention the venting is all wrong. There was clearly no permit pulled for the WH or boiler. We'll be correcting that for sure. Good eye on the 9D.