New Boiler Installation

If I remember correctly

you will have a 1 1/2" nipple for a supply coming out of the top back left of the boiler and a 1 1/4" return coming out of the front lower right....



If you have 2- 3/4" zones {I'm going to venture to say your 4 section is most likely going to be grossly over-sized, if not your return temps are going to be much lower than your supplies since you will have some very long runs}, but besides that lets answer your question, this is how I would pipe it...



I would come out of the boiler with a 1 1/2"X1"x3/4" T {thats 3/4 on the branch for the LWCO {if yours doesnt come with one}to be installed into, 2" to connect to the boiler, and 1" for the system. Then I would install a 1"x3" nipple a 1" union and another 1x3" nipple, next would be a 1"X3/4x1" T, the run will be 1" which will be pointing towards the left side of the boiler, the 3/4 would be on top which would have a taco 418 high vent installed in it, and the bottom 1" tap would be connected to the last 3" nipple...

Now the pipe pointed to the left I would install a 1"X 11 or 12" nipple with a 1" 90 on the end, then a 1X3" nipple, then a 1" IPS spiro vent {or whatever vent you want to use, with a webstone expansion tank fill valve installed in the bottom of it, then another 3" nipple, then a 1" T, then a 5" nipple, and another T, and on the end would be a 1"X1"x3/4" T with a 3/4" drain installed in the end of it.

Now out of that T I would install 2 nipples {depending on how you want to set the circs I you can angle them towards the boiler or stagger them in height or both}, on the tops of them nipples I would install 1" IPS webstone isolator flanges, then the circs and on top of the circs I would install 3/4" isolator flanges then they would be piped to your zones I would use bumble bee circs with check valves installed....



Now for the return, come out of the boiler with a 1 1/4 X 3" nipple go into a 1 1/4 X 1" X 3/4" T install a 3/4" drain in the front of the tee face the nipple to the right, come out of the tee with a 1"X5" nipple then a 1" 90 facing up then a 1X12" nipple then a 1" union and a 1x12 nipple, now put a 1" X3/4X3/4 Tee and come out of the top 3/4" tee with a 3/4x6" nipple and go into a webstone 3/4'ips ball drain assembly, then onto your zone, then out of the other side of the 1x3/4x3/4 tee install a 3/4X4"nipple and a 90 elbow, out of the top of that elbow install a nipple 6" nipple and another 3/4 webstone ball drain assembly then onto zone number 2.... You may need 3/4" male adapter to go to your zone depending on if they are threaded or sweat or pex, if they are sweat use copper male adapters on the return side and buy 3/4" copper flanges for the supply side...



For your fresh water feed you can do this a bunch of ways but the easiest is to pipe it into the webstone expansion tank unit, use a backflor combo unit like the 911s and install it using a brass nipple incase it needs to be changed, fasten everything to the ceiling when it gets up there, if you are using pex to go to your zones go to the ceiling before converting to the soft tubing so you can secure everything first..... I use teflon tape and pipe dope {fond of the blue monster tape and tru blue dope...}.... Also there is a 3/4" tap for a vent and prv on the top or back I forget, but that is pretty straight forward and I believe they come with the parts...



I have installed them boilers in 3 hours, after we had that flood a few years back {not sandy before that} I installed 3 in one day with 2 helpers the houses were pretty close to each other and the boilers were delivered the day before.... While on that same day my other install crew installed 1 boiler and an indirect water heater, lol..... Man that was a rough few weeks, I can not imagine how the sandy guys did it, luckily Sandy wasnt too tough on my area, although a tree fell and crushed a customers garage that I installed a GB 162 and a Rinnai unit in 4 days prior....