Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

fixing a webster type r vapor system

agang85
agang85 Member Posts: 2
I have a building with most of the original vapor system intact, except for the boiler. Another contractor replaced it a few years ago,so now my water line is low to the traps plus they are firing it to cutin at 2.5 psi and cutout at 7 psi. obviously that is laughable. I am new to this type of system so I am looking for directions on how it should be set up so I can work my way through the system to fix it.  Also included is a picture of their header, can I get way with this or should it be repiped?

Comments

  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,103
    re pipe / vaporstat

    From the looks of that header it should be repiped and that system should be operating at less then 1 lb of pressure .For starters i would have a vaporstat installed and lower the operating pressure to ounces instead of pounds and  see how she runs i would also look for non working traps and non working cross over traps and water seals on the ends of the mains and dry return drips which should be  vented seperatly and tie together well below the water level of the boiler giving you a good seal and perventing steam from reaching through to the dry returns  .I would also check your systems air vents on the dry returns to make sure they are working if not replace them .It is kinda funny that guys still replace steam boilers and forget all the details and then add extra expense to the HO.I usually check all these things and include them in my propasal and let the HO know excatly what has to be done for there system to operate properly .This of course cost more money up front but usually always pays off in comfort and fuel usuage and it usually always is cheaper then guessing and more bills from the contractor because it was not including .Do yourself a favor and become a educated comsumer and get some of dans book including the lost art of steam heating and you will be able to realize weather your contractor knows what he is doing or weather he is just giving you the bussiness and learning at your expense .Personally i always tell the truth about what i see and the action to take to correct it .It is always easier to remenber the truth over lies so i alway tell it like it is that way i do not have to remenber a lie .PS i don't like candy coating it neither .Peace and good luck clammy  .On a closing note if they did not get it right the first time i highly doubt they will get it right the second or thrid time either but they will make the bill out correctly thats for sure in my experence. 
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • Webster renovations

    I would say that it does not conform to the peerless boiler instructions. The risers seem smaller than they should be, and the take-offs appear to be between the risers (a specific peerless no-no).

    Are you even sure it is sized correctly fo the system? It is definitely worth getting right, and it will work so well when re-piped. A vaporstat, and a good low-pressure gauge would be a must, to keep the pressure well under 1psi.

    Keep us posted on how the project progresses, with more pictures.--NBC
  • Blackflag
    Blackflag Member Posts: 1
    I agree with both these guys....

    especially about the header piping....wow.....got anymore pics of the boiler room?
    Capitol Contractor Group Inc.



    Specializing in:



    Hot water heating / Snowmelt / Steam / HVAC / Indoor air quality / Consulting and system design



    At CCGI we take all of the home or buildings needs into consideration, not just what we were contracted to do
  • agang85
    agang85 Member Posts: 2
    additional info

    I realize about the vaporstat, but I have questions about the waterline being lower than originally dsigned to the boiler return trap.  Also if I replace the original steam supply valves to the radiators (26) with an orifice and either a n angle stop valve or a thermostatic control valve. I know the thermostatic valves will work better but this is a rental unit and the owner will have a fit over the costs.
This discussion has been closed.