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Header Height

USA498
USA498 Member Posts: 45
I  checked the Large (RUSTY) 4" header height and based on the middle of the sight glass I get 23" to the bottom of the header. Is this incorrect "A" dimension going to cause problems ?

I plan on putting in a drop header, fixing the equalizer and dropping the return drips below the water level after the heating season is over.

Comments

  • RDSTEAM
    RDSTEAM Member Posts: 134
    check other thread

    for explanation of "a" dimension.
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    edited April 2011
    What model

     of boiler are you piping?  Are you using 1 or 2 boiler risers?  Normally, you want to rise 24" from the top of the boiler, then swing over and drop into the header.  Here are some drop-header examples http://www.heatinghelp.com/search/results/drop-header/1  Dan narrates this video on near boiler piping, try to plan in some king valves.  Beleive me, they sure come in handy.  http://www.heatinghelp.com/article/107/Steam-Heating/118/Steam-boiler-near-boiler-piping  Here is a shot of mine.  We had lots of room so we used it.  Your space looks tight, you may want to have an L shaped header rather than straight through like mine.
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    Here's a thought

    You got a lot of good advice in that other thread.  How about this for an idea?  Come out of the boiler with 2".  Then drop into a 4" header.  Then join the new 4" to the old 4".  Material cost might be a little higher, but it might simplify things a bit. 
  • USA498
    USA498 Member Posts: 45
    3" vs 4"

    I was thinking a 3" header but a 4" sounds very interesting. Would there be any drawbacks to a 4" other than cost.  Thanks !
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    I was just trying

     to think of a way to keep it simple.  Changing pipe size from 2" to 3" and then to 4" looks real cool, but it can be complicated to get it to drain correctly.  Also insulating all those different sizes will be difficult.  

    Get some more opinions here, and ask your plumber if he would be comfortable building that for you.   
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    edited April 2011
    Dropheader Configuration

    Hi - Crash has laid it out well for you with his great diagrams.  Just a couple of points-  The height of the dropheader isn't that important. What is important is the height of the risers going into it. One of the big advantages of the drop header with the riser pipes entering the top of the header is that you can take the risers as high as you want. Again - it is the height of the risers which is important. I've attached a picture of the Weil McLain glass piped boiler. This has a "standard header" and you can visually see why riser height is important!  You can also visually see how the header separates water from the steam.



    In the second attached picture - On the dropheader- The length of the horizontal piping off the top of the risers to the dropheader doesn't need to be the same as different lengths of these don't affect operation.(see yellow dotted lines) . The symmetrical setup as Crash has drawn it looks better but if stuck for room, the yellow dotted line symmetry will work fine.

    On the third attached picture Crash has given you a good setup with the blue lined piping layout. Take the piping all the way down top the floor level.   You might want to add tees  with full port valves.instead of elbows. (Also use a pipe plug in the valve to prevent accidental opening. With kids about,it is also a good idea to additionally remove the ball valve handles). 

    It's hard to tell from the picture but I was also wondering about your "A" dimension? (the blue doubled arrowed line)  This should be a minimum of 28 inches. (Page 24 TLAOSH)

    I also drew in a ball valve on the line joining the wet return to the equalizer. This is really handy (with the King valves) for blowing down the boiler. I haven't put King valves on my own boiler yet but used them on several neighbor's new boilers and as Crash mentioned, they sure are handy!  I'm now just looking for a good excuse to do a repipe on my boiler to add them.

    You have a nice basic setup, with just a few modifications, it should really purr !

    - Rod
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,318
    The reasons to not get over board on header size

    The first is cost. bigger cost more. The second is room, bigger is harder to fit in a given space. The third is an over sized header is more air to get out when making steam. The fourth is an over sized header cools steam faster and is more mass to heat when coming up to temperature. Simple is best, make sure the header can drain and keep it simple. You may need to add a drip to the header if you can not get the pitch right. King vales are real nice and I install them on all my boilers now.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    Charlie

    I was thinking 4" from the drop to the existing 4" was overkill.  Do you think it would be better using 2", all the way from the boiler to the existing 4"?
  • USA498
    USA498 Member Posts: 45
    Charlie, Crash & Rod

    What do you think of this idea ? Remove the 4" header completely and run 2 -  2" x 24" risers to drop header of 2 1/2" all the way to the drip. I would also look into incorporating  king valves on the risers to the steam mains as well. I have to redo the piping on the Hartford loop / equalizer anyway so why not just redo the whole thing.

    Thanks everyone for all the excellent recommendations I have received ! This site is great !
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,318
    If you want to add king valves

    quit trying to save what you do not need. I have in the past got my self into more trouble trying to save a $20 fitting. I can think of a boiler right now I saved one fitting but cost myself a half a day working the rest of the system to suit it. If you are going as far as adding the valves then just start from scratch and do it like in the installation manual. The only time I go larger than the header in the manual is if the system is a counter flow system or I need to have it be counter flow near the boiler for other reasons.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
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