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need boiler help asap

rb1
rb1 Member Posts: 5
Ahhh... shop is without heat! need help asap.



Have hot water floor heat, boiler is a Super Hot MG-125-N-E.



Boiler will not fire, (has the electronic start deal)... I traced a few things down, wiggled some wires, and on the Chimney Damper... the 4 wire connector below a relay... when I wiggled it, the relay jumped into action and the boiler fired up! Joy!! So I call the nearest plumbing / heating supplier and they can get me a new damper for Friday. So I figure i will be smart and make sure it is not just corrosion on the connector pins, so I let the boiler cycle a few times, then turn it off and unplug the connector. I scrape the bit of corrosion from the pins, and put a bit of contact grease on the connector.



Well I guess I outsmarted myself, because now it will not even fire.



I can get the relay to close by wiggling the wires, but the boiler will NOT fire.



So... does someone know a good diagnostic routine for this.. can I jumper a wire to temporarily bypass (JUST TO SEE IF THE BOILER WILL RE-LITE) the damper?The four wires going up to the damper... I am hoping that I can just jumper a pair so that it looks like all is well with the damper and see if the unit will fire.Right now, it does not attempt to fire at all, but the pump does turn on when the main power switch is turned on, and the green light on the boiler goes on also... just no action at the starter circuit / ignitor...



Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,367
    Contact Grease?

    What is "contact grease"?
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • rb1
    rb1 Member Posts: 5
    grease

    It is grease that is supposed to reduce corrosion deposits from effecting electrical connections.  I did not smear it all in there, just a little bit.
  • rb1
    rb1 Member Posts: 5
    grease x2

    Yeah, I wondered if that was an issue, but the strange thing is that the relay contacts still close.. like they did the first time I wiggled the connection and it fired up. 

    I will say one thing tho... the first time I wiggled the connector and the relay closed (and the boiler lit up) the sparks from the contacts was ALOT more than it is now... now there is just a little flicker when the contacts close.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,367
    Grease

    Are you referring to something like Penatrox that is used on aluminum wire?
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • rb1
    rb1 Member Posts: 5
    nyk

    http://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-Corrosion-Preventitive-Lubricant-NYK-77/dp/B001OJH5WC



    NYK 97944 - corrosion preventive compound... I cleaned out the little smear that was in there, with no difference in result.
  • rb1
    rb1 Member Posts: 5
    update

    I was able to find a new damper this morning, and once connected the boiler fired right up... looks like it is all behind me now (crossed fingers)!
  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,853
    Bad end switch...

    You may have had 2 problems, but every time I have that damper problem, it ends up being the end switch of the damper that doesn't make, and keeps the rest of the gas train locked out.



    ME
    It's not so much a case of "You got what you paid for", as it is a matter of "You DIDN'T get what you DIDN'T pay for, and you're NOT going to get what you thought you were in the way of comfort". Borrowed from Heatboy.
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