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drop header question

Patrick_North
Patrick_North Member Posts: 249
in Strictly Steam
<span style="font-size:12pt">In drop headers I sometimes see takeoffs to mains coming off the header at an angle. The supply lines from the boiler, however, always seem to drop straight down into the header.</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt">Why is this?</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt"> If anything, I would have guessed the opposite setup would be preferred: angle the boiler risers as they drop into the header to allow any water carried up into the header to ‘slide down the side,’ staying out of the way of the steam (the same logic that has riser takeoffs piped at 45 from the main), and keep the takeoffs to the main completely vertical to discourage water from working up into the mains. Or perhaps angles would be preferred in both cases, if it wasn’t so darn tricky to pipe- two 45’s often being preferable to a single 90 in matters of plumbing. </span>

<span style="font-size:12pt">Just curious,</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt">Patrick</span>

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    You mean,

    something similar to this?

    Yes, it is difficult to do(@ the header point), unless you have the room.  ;-)
  • Patrick_North
    Patrick_North Member Posts: 249
    Yes!

    Though it makes me wonder- why a vertical takeoff frim the header then two 45's into the main? Does this combine the best of both worlds- eliminating a 90 to the main while keeping the initial takeoff vertical to discourage water carryover?

    Patrick
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Not really,,,,

    90`s just happen to be out-of-stock by the time we got to this point,, so I improvised! ;-)
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    45 degree elbows

    Here's one from "Off the Wall" I've always admired and which meets your specifications.

    http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/articles/1343/288.pdf



    Using extra 90 deg.elbows to make a dropheader is very worthwhile but I'm not sure whether you'd gain that much more by adding  the 45s other than headaches.

    - Rod

      
  • gerry gill
    gerry gill Member Posts: 3,078
    You are correct.

    that would be the absolute optimal way to do it.
    gwgillplumbingandheating.com
    Serving Cleveland's eastern suburbs from Cleveland Heights down to Cuyahoga Falls.

  • KeithC
    KeithC Member Posts: 38
    King valves

    Are those ball valves rated for steam temperature? And are they full port? I'd be afraid of decreasing velocity so close to the header. When I put kings in they're always gates.



    Keith
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,322
    I find full port ball valves to be

    a more cost effective choice. I always make sure they are full port and steam rated. Many of the gate valves I get are either NASA grade or anchor grade so I go with ball Appollo ball valves.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Ron Jr._3
    Ron Jr._3 Member Posts: 603
    I remember this one

    And if my mind doesn't fail me , it was installed by the homeowner . A damn sight better than alot of the pro work I've come across over the years .......
  • Ron Jr._3
    Ron Jr._3 Member Posts: 603
    Real nice install Dave

    Lemme ask ........



    Did you get the sizes right on those nips in the 45s the first time ?



    I doubt I could , even after hundreds of steamer installs .
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Thank You Ron Jr.,

    That means alot coming from you!

    I guess I`m lucky working with 45`s, actually I prefer them when I have the room to do so.

    This steamer was moved from one-end of the basement to the other because of a bad masonry chimney, the only access for new SS was at the rear of the building.

    The top-front breech and close proximity to the wall made things kinda tight. 
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