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Burnham Alpine

dy
dy Member Posts: 6
I presently have a 1991 Burnham 209A-WNI Boiler and want to upgrade to one of the Burham Alpine models. The present system heats my home ok which has    80 %  Burnham cast iron base board and 20% radiant stapled under tile floor. The system also is set up with 5 zone valves. A heat loss evaluation was done when I installed in 1992. So my question is which size Alpine should I choose since the spec's on the Alpine series doesn' t have a model that matches the present boiler btu rating.

Comments

  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    edited August 2010
    Heat Loss

    What is the heat loss you need to overcome at design temperature? Very important especially that you have both cast iron and radiant. You will be able to run 2 different water temps. The boiler reset will take care of the cast and you could then modulate the water temp for the radiant.



    This is a perfect application for a Viessmann Vitodens 200 with their motorized 3-way valve and Vitotrols. How is the radiant controlled in its present state?
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • NRT_Rob
    NRT_Rob Member Posts: 1,013
    I'm curious

    what is your heat load? and how big is the home?



    Ideally the CIBB and the radiant run at the same temp so you won't need mixing. sounds like that might be what has been occurring all along?
    Rob Brown
    Designer for Rockport Mechanical
    in beautiful Rockport Maine.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Willing to bet

    That cast is banging off 180 and the radiant has a thermostatic. Need that heat loss to be sure one temp.
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • NRT_Rob
    NRT_Rob Member Posts: 1,013
    I'll see that bet

    and raise you a "no thermostatic valve high temp naked staple up" ;)



    However even if the CIBB is running 180 right now, I've never once run across a system that really needed that. Anyone running 180 isn't really designing and so they are always overkill... you can almost always turn down to 150 or 160 with no mods. Often you can hit 140 by simply cutting a couple of circuits into home runs. And then you are in radiant temperature land... for higher temp radiant methods at least.
    Rob Brown
    Designer for Rockport Mechanical
    in beautiful Rockport Maine.
  • dy
    dy Member Posts: 6
    Alpine continued

    Home is 2200 sq.ft stone ranch 18 inch solid walls with no insulation, 30 windows, unheated basement  built in 1925.

    Don't have the heat load numbers. 

    Boiler set at 180 and radiant has temp control valve set at 160 
  • NRT_Rob
    NRT_Rob Member Posts: 1,013
    darn it

    I lost the bet!



    If you are not insulated that, that is wildly and amazingly the first priority. If there is any possible way to address that, it would be in your best interest to put everything else you can on hold until you do.
    Rob Brown
    Designer for Rockport Mechanical
    in beautiful Rockport Maine.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Pay Up!

    While I agree Insulating is top priority but so is a radiant design/heat loss and a loss with that cast. Also needs to measure that cast per room/zone, compare to the loss and set the proper curve. Sounds like no plates so the cast will actually be the one with the low temp curve most likely. So, as I said, Vitodens 200 with the boiler taking care of the high temp (which may be the radiant in this case) and a 3-way for the low temp. Vitotrols to provided indoor temp feedback and boiler control remotely and away we go!
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • NRT_Rob
    NRT_Rob Member Posts: 1,013
    I'd still wager

    he can do this single temp. If he insulates especially.
    Rob Brown
    Designer for Rockport Mechanical
    in beautiful Rockport Maine.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Maybe

    But we are also talking about two different types of emittting heat to the space. Floorplan and where the board is compared to the radiant may call for it so they can be controlled indepentdently of each other for max comfort.
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • NRT_Rob
    NRT_Rob Member Posts: 1,013
    zone them separately

    definitely. but going two temp when you don't need to is an expensive insurance policy to avoid doing some math.
    Rob Brown
    Designer for Rockport Mechanical
    in beautiful Rockport Maine.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Math

    I agree with you the math needs to be done. From the math we then get to weigh out all the options available based on the math and go with what fits the application and budget best. Without the math it's def a two temp system.
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • dy
    dy Member Posts: 6
    edited August 2010
    95%

    System is set up with 5 Zones with one being the radiant. The rest Burnham cast iron  baseboard.

    Back to my orginal question and another, can I size smaller? Also, I'm wondering if one of the 95% systems is to much for a do it yourselfer? Seems they are a little delicate to balance with all the computer controls and sensors!
  • NRT_Rob
    NRT_Rob Member Posts: 1,013
    no idea

    if you are not insulated, could be anything.



    you need insulation and a heat loss calc.
    Rob Brown
    Designer for Rockport Mechanical
    in beautiful Rockport Maine.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Heat Loss

    Can't anwsers your question concerning smaller system. Need a heat loss to determine that. Not a project for a novice.
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
This discussion has been closed.