can someone please explain piping...

jpf321 · December 2009

Can someone please explain the possible rationale for my near-boiler return piping...my desire if to shorten it a bit laterally. Right now there is a T from the Hartford, a Brass thing with a square plug in top, a nipple, a union, a nipple, an elbow .. see pics ..

While I'm at it, I'd like to pipe in a return flush port .. as I understand it, there should be a boiler side gate-valve and a return side full-port ball valve. I'd like to put this on the vertical return pipe between the EL and the 45deg (see last pic) pls confirm this is a reasonable idea.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jpf321/Fitzgibbons400Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCNOPnfifvI7MNA#5415986788810731890"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JuuICk78iPs/SylzSg9FsXI/AAAAAAADKnI/5xeP_XfW-CU/s128/IMG_9002.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jpf321/Fitzgibbons400Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCNOPnfifvI7MNA#5415986370921950002"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JuuICk78iPs/Syly6MMo6zI/AAAAAAADKmM/vXfD_cIaFCk/s128/IMG_8999.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jpf321/Fitzgibbons400Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCNOPnfifvI7MNA#5415986513150665890"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JuuICk78iPs/SylzCeCm5KI/AAAAAAADKmU/eHO-udrfJm0/s128/IMG_9000.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jpf321/Fitzgibbons400Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCNOPnfifvI7MNA#5407071475512528690"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_JuuICk78iPs/SwnG2-0STzI/AAAAAAADKn8/ujCfTRjlmkI/s128/IMG_8582.JPG" /></a>

Thanks..

jpf

nicholas bonham-carter · December 2009

fitzgibbons return

that looks like a check valve in your hartford loop. it may, or may not still have the flapper inside. perhaps it was there to keep the water from rising too much under very high pressure, or maybe it could isolate the steam from the over-long horizontal as a anti-water-hammer solution. the top will unscrew enabling the flapper removal, and should reseal without too much trouble, [just to be safe wait to try it when the hardware store is open!]

in replacing our boiler, we took out the check-valve which had been incorrectly installed to counteract over-pressuring the returns. we also put in a ball valve as low as possible to aid flushing. a hose conection will make it more convenient, especially if you have a floor drain.--nbc

jpf321 · December 2009

so the brass thing then ...

the brass thing then could be a check valve to keep the boiler side from pushing the return backwards and potentially up into my far-boiler steam mains (before they drop into the returns) .. that makes sense. and I suppose it's a pretty important thing to have in place. i tried to open it with moderate force but nothing happened...when I have more sunlight in the day, i'll try with a bit more elbow grease.

however, it also seems like I could relocate that check valve further from the boiler if need be (really anywhere along the wet return line).

BTW, it is stamped "125" 1-1/4 .. but does not have an "arrow" indicating direction.

thanks!

nicholas bonham-carter · December 2009

check valve needed?

i don't believe it is needed as it was probably a band-aid solution, for the high pressure problem. if you can get the top off, then remove the flapper, you will see what the effect of not having it would be.

a flat-sided wrench, like a crescent, or old monkey wrench may have a better chance for success. just make sure that the flats bottom out in the jaws. maybe someone has a photo illustrating my advice here!--nbc

jpf321 · December 2009

no flapper

i put a bit more umph into the wrench and it opened up. no flapper in sight. thanks!

can someone please explain piping...

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