Radiant controls

JackFre

In a long ago post about how to heat the new (remodeled) bathrooms I was informed in no uncertain terms that if I was to continue to post here I had to "go radiant". Therefore, I have elected to do so, and thank you for your kind advice.

My installation experience with radiant ended in the golden Polybute days. Wow, I can't believe that was 25 yrs ago. I plated HX'd those systems and they continue to operate.

I'm using Uponor's Quik Trac system. New 3/4" plywood subfloor (replacing the original 1/2" springboard), Quiktrak, 1/2" cement board and stone tile. I'm gaining about about 1 1/2" of floor height, but that's what it takes.

My current boiler is a Buderus G224, although I will be selling it and going to a condensing unit. Hot water is by Rinnai so no load on the boiler. At this time I am running 180F for the system with the Ecomatic. I do not find it particularly easy to "deal with", but I don't do it every day. In all likelihood the rest of the first floor will go radiant also but in a staple up. The baseboard will likely remain for the second floor.

I know I will be using different temps even for the two types of radiant as well as the baseboard, so what controls/pump package do you recommend? Being relatively simpleminded (no surprise to some) simplicity of operation/set-up is appreciated.

Brandon_4

Zone Control Stations

Check out these hydronic zone control stations by HPS Controls. They are a snap to install and are basically very simple. I saw them at the ISH show in Chicago this fall. The website is www.hpscontrols.com.

Brandon_4

Pump Zone Control Stations

Check out these hydronic zone control stations by HPS Controls. They are a snap to install and are basically very simple. I saw them at the ISH show in Chicago this fall.

The website is www.hpscontrols.com

Unknown

Have a heat load calculation done first. You might want to match your bathroom and future radiant installation to simplify the system for one water temp plus high temp. Also, heavy plates in the joist (like joist trak) will outperform quick trak anyway, and save you the height buildup.

If you're going with a condensing boiler two-temp system, I'd use a teknet 4 system to integrate all the demands so when the high temp is not calling, the boiler can drop its temperature and condense, and when it is, it can be minimized if you make the high temp tN4 as well.

It's not necessarily "simple" though.

Otherwise, I suppose you have the mod/con set for the high temp heating curve, and then use a mixing valve with outdoor reset for the radiant. Cheaper and simpler controls there, but not as capable and not working as hard to optimize your boiler firing.

jp_2

good point nrt

with joist track you could use ditra(anti fracture membrain)
right on the ply and lower the floor another 1/2"

radmix

I have read on a earler post that joist trak outperforms quick trak. Is it because you get more BTU pre square foot or is it more responsive.

radmix

I have read on a earler post that joist trak outperforms quick trak. Is it because you get more BTU pre square foot or is it more responsive.

Unknown

You get more BTUs/sq ft out of an equivalent water temperature in the pipes, due to better conduction to the flooring.